Okay, 3 months ago my battery died,
so i replaced it with a used one, a month later that died.
So then I bought a brand new one, it was holding perfect,
however this is what happened.
Yesterday I bought a sub + amp, wired it up, it worked perfect for like 10 minutes, then CD player started (only the deck) restarting at high volume, then the volume required to trigger that got lower lower and lower.
Today, I was driving, and battery started to get weaken gradually, i eventually just took the amp+sub off, and eventually that lead to this:
at times the car would barely idle, my headlights were so dim i couldnt see anything, but at times i’d get a spike of power and have lights bright again. I was 200km away from home, and I didn’t kno when that thing was gonna crap out on me. One time the speedometer started wobbling too.
Luckily i made it home, thank god to that i was shitting balls, and now i have almost no power, even the door chime is getting lazy.
What do you think is causing this? Is it definitely alternator?
Was my charging system fine until I installed the sub+amp (and it was just that the used battery i bought was bad?) Was it the installation of system that caused it? or do you think my alternator was always messed? what’s that spike? could this be my connection problem?
it is a KA24E, would anyone happen to know if an alternator off of D21 would fit in S13?
when your car is running it get all its power from the alternator. try starting your car and then disconnect the ground wire from the battery while its running. if your idling at normal rpm and you see everything start to dim or even stall, then its most likely your alternator. check all your fuses including the big one right off the alternator. then check all your connections to the alternator, especially the ground. you should clean them all up with some sandpaper, or wire wheel. you could also try blowing out your alternator with some compressed air. especially if its real dirty around the brushes and commutator (copper ring around the shaft of the alternator inside it).
yeah, forgot to try that. The idle with positive off the battery was fine when the sub just started to cut off, but i guess doing it now will tell for sure.
get an AVR test done and look into having a Cap installed for the amp and sub installed. There isn’t any details of what kinda power that sub/amp is putting out so I dont know forsure if it needs it
The sub is Type S 300 rms 900 peak, and Amp is 300 rms 760 peak Sony Xplods, just wondering though, could this have caused the failure of alternator? or has no relationship? was my alternator failing anyways?
hey an other thing is if its a 240sx s13 there is actually a fuse for your alternator under the hood on the passangers side right by the battary check it i just found out that was my problem so now i have an extra alternator if thats the problem for sale and fuse cost 12 bucks at nissan speacial order part to its a 75A fuse i hope this helps.
tried the disconnection method, it’s weird because, the very first time i did it, the engine stalled right away, then i grabbed this wire connector cleaner and sprayed the shiat out of it and now she’ll drive and idle, with 0 accessories, even signal lights will make the engine run all weird. The battery does charge, but VERY slowly, i left it running for 10 minutes and came back, turned the lights on, and they were bright for about 5 seconds then went dim again.
yup thats the same problem i had trust me check the fuse for it behind the battary my car did the same thing as soon as i fixed that everything works mint now
what would that tell me though? so far i know that when i have it unhooked from the battery (after boosting to start) i can’t turn on any accessories without stalling, and hooking it back to the battery makes almost no difference, battery’s as good as dead.
sigh… a fully charged battery produces ~12 Volts (test with the car off).
now turn the car on, and while it’s running test the battery again… if the alternator is working properly you should get a reading of ~14 Volts.
however, in some instances the alternator may still produce adequate voltage but insufficient amperage (current)… this indicates a WEAK alternator as opposed to a DEAD one.
thanks everybody for the reply. I had an extremely weak alternator, I tried fitting one off of S13, didn’t work, Stanza, didn’t work, and no place had one for D21 pickup, so I just got it rebuilt, 130 bux, I know I paid a lot but it was same day. Now it charges up like a dime and planning on getting a capacitor to prevent this from happening again.