when i try to start my car is turn overs for half a second and dies and after i try agian right after it just doesnt turn over. i let it sit for awhile and it turns over half a second and when i try agian it doesnt want to turn over agian.
i’m guessing its my starter thats gone?
if its cranking over its not the starter
how ever mabye the starter isnt engaged with the flywheel
check fuel and spark
Battery, Starter, Ground, Alternator, Corrosion, Rust, Apple Jacks…
Could be a bunch of things…
ya my car wouldnt start because my engine - chassis ground was not there
check out grounds
i got it started once before it completely died on me. and i noticed my dash was dim on idle but when i started driving my dash would get lighter and my car was a little bit rougher then usually on idle but pulled like normally. after that it won’t start no more. like when u start it after its been siting for a while it turns for less then one second and dies but when it does turn for less then a sec its a super duper weak one. if you try agian it doesnt turn and if you pay close attention you can hear a very very quiet buzzing noise or mybe thats just in my head due to frustration.
i’ll check all those electrical things in the morning.
sounds like your alternator
i have an almost new one if you find out that it is the culprit
pm me
Just my guess, but it’s probably the alternator.
Definately could be a drained battery too…have you tried jumping it? Test the battery first.
Good luck.
Would really have to see the car, check the grounds and the battery. Once the car is running check if the battery is making 13.9v or more (to verify your alternator is good. Good luck.
thnxs for the help 
ok i’m guessing my battery is dead on this one.
i boosted my car and it worked fine but when i took off the cables the car ran like crap and wut i stated earlier about my dash light is still the same also when i have my headlights on my rpm drop to 500. i turn it off and try to start it agian and no turn over. i boosted it agian and it worked fine again and i had my head lights on. once i pulled the cables my light turned dim and no start once you try agian.
It’s very likely alternator related. Pull the alternator and get it tested. It could be the wiring for the alternator, but I’m pretty sure the alternator has taken a dump.
If you can get a good used one, do it. I think I was quoted almost $300 for a new one.
If the alternator checks out ok, clean the terminals on the battery and cables, check the main ground wire, and all the wiring from the back of the alternator.
if it was the alternator wouldnt i be able to start the car right after i turned it off? the only way i can start the car is if you boost it. and when my friend alternator was done we were able to start the car still even tho the alternator was dead.
NO NO NO!
It’s your alternator man! Unless something else is REALLY whacked!
If it doesn’t charge the battery (ie. it’s bad), then how will you be able to start the car again after turning it off?
If you’re battery is old and you don’t want to test the alternator, just replace them both and call it a day.
Good luck w/ everything.
Just some tips,
Bad fuel mix - A bad fuel mix can occur in several ways:
You are out of gas, so the engine is getting air but no fuel.
The air intake might be clogged, so there is fuel but not enough air.
The fuel system might be supplying too much or too little fuel to the mix, meaning that combustion does not occur properly.
There might be an impurity in the fuel (like water in your gas tank) that makes the fuel not burn.
Lack of compression - If the charge of air and fuel cannot be compressed properly, the combustion process will not work like it should. Lack of compression might occur for these reasons:
Your piston rings are worn (allowing air/fuel to leak past the piston during compression).
The intake or exhaust valves are not sealing properly, again allowing a leak during compression.
There is a hole in the cylinder.
The most common “hole” in a cylinder occurs where the top of the cylinder (holding the valves and spark plug and also known as the cylinder head) attaches to the cylinder itself. Generally, the cylinder and the cylinder head bolt together with a thin gasket pressed between them to ensure a good seal. If the gasket breaks down, small holes develop between the cylinder and the cylinder head, and these holes cause leaks.
Lack of spark - The spark might be nonexistent or weak for a number of reasons:
If your spark plug or the wire leading to it is worn out, the spark will be weak.
If the wire is cut or missing, or if the system that sends a spark down the wire is not working properly, there will be no spark.
If the spark occurs either too early or too late in the cycle (i.e. if the ignition timing is off), the fuel will not ignite at the right time,
If the battery is dead, you cannot turn over the engine to start it.
If the bearings that allow the crankshaft to turn freely are worn out, the crankshaft cannot turn so the engine cannot run.
If the valves do not open and close at the right time or at all, air cannot get in and exhaust cannot get out, so the engine cannot run.
If someone sticks a potato up your tailpipe, exhaust cannot exit the cylinder so the engine will not run.
If you run out of oil, the piston cannot move up and down freely in the cylinder, and the engine will seize.
it’s electrical problem, i can only start my car when its boosted. but yea i changed the battery seems to work but then dash is still the same, goes brighter when i hit gas but not as bad as before. well my battery is on a slight angle due to make it reach the wires but i’ll see how it turns out until i get an alternator on wed. also still want to trade or buy the right battery for a 240.
Ok, if your dash lights go dim on idle then brighten when you rev it, odds are your alternator is in the process of taking a dump. Or your alt belt is slipping badly.
Stupid Nissan decided to internally regulate their alternators. The voltage regulator (what tells the alt to go to charge or not) is INSIDE the fricking alternator and not serviceable (easily). On other cars, it’s a $5 part to replace.
Odds are your new battery is good enough to make up for the weak alternator.
Get a mulimeter, even a cheap one (>$10). Test the battery with the car off. You should get at the very least 12V.
Start the car and test again. It should come up to at least 14v. It shouldn’t drop at idle.
If you’re running a good battery on a bad alternator or a bad battery on a good alternator, you’ll kill both in no time.
when i rev the lights slightly go a little brighter but u wont notice it unless your focusing and i cant seem to see the dash going dim or brighter. also my battery is in a very wierd position like tilted and angle so i can get the wires on. but when i drive it and start the car it seems pretty ok. i’ll check with a mutlimeter tomorrow.
any other ideas if beside the alternator or battery? battery is fine alternator seems fine got to double check starter is fine. anything more ideas?
jon