Altima won't start

Hey, maybe someone can help. I’m afraid it might be the starter, but I’m not sure.

Everything was working normally this morning, started up fine after work. I stopped on the way home to get the mail, and since the mail key is on the same key ring I had to turn off the car. Since then, it won’t start at all. I turn the key and nothing. Dash lights flicker, but no radio, no power, no accessories. I couldn’t even roll up my windows if I had to leave the car.

I managed to get some neighborhood kids to give me a push, and I was able to pop the clutch and the car started running, no problems.

Got home, turned it off again, same problem.

Tried boosting it with my wife’s car, no change.

Basically, I turn the key and dash lights flicker, there’s a clicking. Sounds like a starter, but a few other things make me concerned that it might be something else electrical.

For example, sometimes when I turn the car back to off, and leave the key in, sometimes it’s normal (beeping, dome light on, etc), but sometimes there’s a crazy clicking that happens, which is coming from the fuse panel under the hood. I pull one of the fuses (looks more like a flasher/timer thing, and it stops). What I’ve noticed is that this piece continues to click until the dome light would normally fade to “off”, like a timer.

Anyway, I know it’s a bit confusing, but anyone have any thoughts?

sounds more like the battery is NFG or electrical. Will your wifes battery fit? I would rule that out first. It may not start with a boost if the battery is toast. Make sure to park down hill till you get it fixed:biggrin:

Well, I think the battery is ok because the dome lights, etc, still seem to come on (sporadically).

I think I’ve ruled out the starter because I just tried turning on the hazards with no key in the car, and they flicker and go out, with some clicking again.

Right now I’ve got the battery disconnected with the pos and neg cables touching each other to drain the power which is supposed to reset the ECU.

Beyond that, I have no idea.

im almost sure it sounds like a battery. Just go buy a new one. If your still on your stock battery consider yourself lucky as they don’t last long in newer nissans.

^^ You got it Ryan. It was your advice (combined with some folks on Beyond) that convinced me to try a new battery, even though the boosting failed. And sure enough, that’s what it was.

Weird though, like I said in the post over there - I’ve never seen a battery fail so suddenly and so weirdly. It went from a perfect start with no hesitation at all, to not even turning over once. Some weird flickering lights and clicking … I guess now I know for next time. But some graceful failure would be nice, because having some slow cranks as a warning would definitely prevent people from being stranded like I almost was. Glad it wasn’t -30 out and I wasn’t more than half a block from home.

It’s not un common for a battery to toast it self especially in hot or cold weather. All you need in one plate to come in contact or close proximity to each other and Poof, Battery is toast.

If you have a voltmeter, check the battery and again when the motor is on.

If your getting less than 12.4v from the battery (not started) its discharging itself. Then Check again when the car is on and you have less than (i think) 13 - 14 volt your alternator is undercharging the battery

I’m not positive about the car on volt measurement, its too damn early for thinking.

its less then 13V when running that its not getting a proper charger :slight_smile:

Are you guys saying that I should check the volts even after buyingthe new battery, in case the alternator’s shot? Not a bad idea, maybe I’ll try that, but I’m not sure if I want to go buy a voltmeter now that the problem’s been resolved… (at least for now)

I would. Just buy one from crappy tire use it and return it. lol. or go to Partsource and borrow theirs free.

It’s one of those better safe than sorry situations.

Had something similar happen to a buddy, shiney new battery and the problem came back a few weeks later.

or you can stop being cheap and go to a shop and get an AVR test done. tests alternator, starter and battery in one shot. a multi meter will do the job if you know how to use it as well. alternator should put out roughly 14.4V with car on before the voltage regulator will shut off. shop is the easiest method.

grerrgrwefdafwgergdhdgh

sometimes a car may have intermittent problem, that’s why itdoesn’t start. what you will need to do is go to your mechanic to find such an intermittent problem. if you hear a click but the starter wont crack this also could be a caused by your battery. to solve this you need to replace the affected part immediately.


nissan altima parts