Radiant heating would have been nice, but I have propane out here and it would have been pretty expensive. I’m going with a waste oil heater in the future (i think).
Estimated cost on this?
Im thinking of doing the same. If not the same size a touch smaller
Depending on truss span, pitch, and plate height, you should be able to set them upside down and flip then. Set the first one with a 2 x 6 nailed from the peak down half the height of the wall so it doesn’t flip over the end. Nail another 2 x 6 perpendicular (like an L shape) for strength. Set the next one on spacing and nail temporary purlins along the top (and midspan of the top chord if you like) to hold subsequent trusses in place. Premark your layout spacing on the purlins. Tack nail at the top plates and use hurricane straps (Simpson) for final connection to truss / plate. Take your time. Layout your trusses on layout or out of square and you’ll wish you never had to nail plywood up there. Flip your last few trusses before you run out of room and lean them against the others and slide into place.
Sweet! I’m gonna keep my eye on this build, see if I can get any good finishing ideas.
I’ve been on garagejournal dot com a lot lately keeping the ideas flowing for finishing details inside. I was blown away by the amount of information there is on that site.
X…
damn that looks sweet. Subscribed!
this and did you already have them delivered…some, maybe not HD, will deliver them onto the building for you…when i helped my dad with his that is what he did…them he actually pulled them down and did the final layout and nail up by himself…
i have to ask is it a 2x6 @ 24" o.c? it just seems a bit spindly at 12’ tall with a 32’ span…i’d have to look at a wood chart but it feels like you are pushing 2x8 territory there
Photos look like 2x4 @ 24" o.c. Little rickety nut I tend to overbuild. As long as sheathing is fastened well, it will have rigidity. Perhaps consider glueing corner sheets for added strength.
It is 2x4 @ 24" o/c. Blocking half way up to help keep the studs from bowing under the weight of the roof and potential snow. The corners are tripled up 2x4 with an additional nailer for the adjacent wall. 2x6 bottom and sill plates with 2x4 double top plates. I’m learning as I go from my FIL who did construction (of many different types) for over 40 years and he said the plywood sheathing will give me all the strength I need with a 2x4 wall. The town clerk also gave me the ok on this type of construction. It’s not that I think I know better than anyone else, it’s that I didn’t know any better when I ordered the material (or got it quoted for that matter). Same goes for the foundation, which is not the traditional 42" footer. The concrete guy promised me a monolithic pour with 12"x12" haunches all the way around was plenty for a garage, he even does it for modular homes and has never been called back to fix a foundation after 25 years. A little investigation on places like garagejournal.com verified this would indeed be fine as long as it was done correctly.
The trusses were already delivered, they will also be 24" o/c when they are installed.
Yup, sounds good. Plywood’s stronger than OSB but that would work too. I forget the product number but use the Simpson uplift straps at each truss. They’re a straightish piece of metal twisted 90° with about 8-10 nail holes each. Easy to install. Again, take time to layout and square. You can whack them a little bit when sheathing to get them to even out, but only so much. Use H clips for 24" o.c. construction for the sheathing. Will keep sheathing from “twisting” and make the seams rigid. Din’t forget purlins and bracing inside the truss webs. Spec. sheet should have come with delivery specifying quantity and location.
Spec sheet? All I got was a bill of materials, no direction where to put anything. Has not hurt me so far, but I’ve still got a descent pile of material.
The FIL suggested hurricane straps for added strength as well, wasn’t a fan of the OSB for the roof though. He prefered plywood…
Just an FYI, before and after the top plates were nailed down, corner to corner measurements were off by 3/8" without any adjustment. Hopefully that helps the truss installation, which in turn would help the OSB roofing installation. I hate ladders and don’t want to be up there making too many adjustments/measurements/cuts/etc.
Great project, man.
I have to say I’m very surprised that a 2x4 wall @ 24oc with a 12’ height would pass muster when dealing with a 32’ span. That is a lot of weight on a wall that will also have to deal with wind loading not to mention that it has 3 relatively huge holes in it.
Not trying to be negative just trying to provide some cautious advice on a big investment.
Very cool. In for updates.
They started laying out my building today. 
Dan
Maybe because it’s a garage and not a house and there is no upstairs? No idea, I haven’t caught any grief from the town or anyone who has looked at it yet in person. So I’m hoping that means there is nothing to worry about.
Im guessing you got a permit right? If so the building inspector would have caught something…if not :snky:
Yes, I got a permit. I had to provide a drawing/plans for how it was going to be constructed before the permit would be issued. I think with 12’ walls, blocking was required if I went with 2x4 studs at 24" o/c. I’ll be mighty disappointed if I’m this far along and I have to re-do the framing. I seem to recall the guy at the town said 16" o/c was required for home or attached garage construction, 24" o/c was ok for detached buildings. But I might be making that up…
Before I started, I did a lot of research and saw that 2x6 construction is a bit overkill and is common practice because it doesn’t cost the contractor that much more money, but can “sound” more appealing to a customer. More insulation, stronger (than it needs to be), etc. I went with 2x4 because it would be sufficient (again, according to the interwebs) for strength, a little more interior room (barely), and a lot lighter for standing up the wall (wasn’t sure of how many people helping lift them up after being assembled).
East Bloomfield? No kidding, I lived there for a hot second, Whalen Road near Toomey’s Corner. I’d like to check this out sometime!
Wheeler station!
As far as the 2x4 verses the 2x6. When i went to get the permit to wire, insulate, and install a heater my EXISTING garage they told me that i was required to have R21 in the wall and R49’ish in the ceiling!! if i was to install a Perminate heater. So even thought i MIGHT be in my garage 1 day a week in the winter running the heat i still have to build out my walls to get R21 in there. he replyed with yes, its a "energy conservation act thing. But if i run a “salamander heater” im not required to insulate it at all and run 10x the fuel?! Yes absolutly was his comment. WTF? That clearly makes sense!!! Now i understand the benefits of insulating… Hell im going to but how the hell do you suggest i get R21 in the walls of a 2x4 construction?! So i took it off the permit and i will do it without telling them, later.
So just something to think about… I don’t know how exactly it works in your town. But good luck on the garage!!!
Ha! No kidding. The people I bought my house from moved onto that road. Nice!