Would’ve been my guess.
lol
You wouldn’t want to staggar the sheathing or anything to interlock them… much like brick walls; the strongest ones are built as a series of pillars /sarcasm
I would have gone 2x4 16" O.C. but for your reference, my house was built circa 1900, 2x4 on 24" centers. The ceilings are still 10’ up, walls are square and plumb after 100+years of wind load or whatever
Good luck with your build man, don’t overthink it and trust the grey beards (your FIL)
That’s kinda the comment my FIL made, he said to go look at any structure he ever built with this type of construction, they are all still standing so it wouldn’t be hard to do.
This gave me a good lolz. Thanks <3
I block every edge of plywood. It takes no time at all to set up the saw to cut 34532 of them, and only slightly more time to put them in place.
I was just trying to help the builder, and argue with the designer. I can understand people being cautious and I can appreciate that, better safe than sorry. I’ve also seen structures (not my doing) that I would’ve sworn would be rubble by morning, withstand wicked winds with no bracing. In the end, read the advice, think independantly, and do what makes you feel “good” about it.
I’m sorry but I think my advice was pretty sound…clearly the structure as built doesn’t meet the prescriptive requirements of the code and as no calculations were submitted there is no way to know if it would pass analysis…my gut is that it wouldn’t because of the large contributory area of the roof resulting from the 32’ span…this doesn’t mean it will spontaneously fall down…just that it doesn’t meet code…and it also means that all the hurricane straps and glued corners will never make up for 33% more studs because that is not what straps and glue are for…
As for how things in the distant past were built those structures were built with true dimension lumber typically of an old growth wood variety…not the smaller, weaker, younger and less dimensionally stable woods that are now available at big box stores. A true 2x8 could easily span 16’ as a floor joist…you wouldn’t want to do that with one today.
Ultimately the fate of this wall is only in question due to the 32’ span it supports. Old houses don’t have 32’ clear spans…most new houses don’t have 32’ clear spans supported by 24oc framing…
Repeatedly doing something wrong without suffering consequences doesn’t make it right…I’ve taken off my radiator cap when the engine is hot without getting burned…doesn’t mean it’s a very bright thing to do…
Wow, sorry I brought any of this up.
Now I know what I sound like in nerd threads :lol:
Don’t worry about us. Just like auto build threads, this becomes a dick measuring contest.
hey man like i said…it isn’t going to fall down.
i was just curious because it looked pretty slender and then people started recommending things (glue and hurricane ties) that would really just be a waste of money. buy the extra 36 2x4s and do the horizontal blocking behind horizontally oriented plywood…it will substantially increase the strength of the wall to resist both gravity loads and wind loads.
I haven’t built any additions or garages in years, possibly ever, that didn’t require hurricane straps. The inspectors looked for them. Are you saying they’re a waste of money? Now I am concerned.
i consider a “hurricane strap” or tie to be a particular type of strapping, that being those rated to resist hurricane force winds which is not the case for every “uplift connection”.
this is a good example of people using rules of thumbs that aren’t necessarily correct. i believe the requirement for uplift connectors as defined in the building code is driven by the anticipated uplift pressure per square foot…not all roofs will be subject to this uplift pressure and therefore would not require even the simplest uplift connection which could be a variety of connections, not necessarily a pre-manufactured galvanized steel plate or strap.
without knowing much more information about the garage in question or the site conditions and other relevant information i couldn’t venture a guess as to what type of pressure this roof would experience…i suspect it would be higher than the minimum threshold given its size alone…but that doesn’t mean it needs hurricane ties…it just needs a connection that is capable of resisting the calculated uplift pressures on the roof…many of the typical simpson-style truss connectors out there provide a great deal of uplift resistance without buying additional strapping or buying a larger more expensive hurricane rated connector.
what i’m saying is a waste of money is just throwing random things at a problem- in this case lack of stiffness in the WALL- that have absolutely nothing to do with the strength of the WALL.
yes your roof has to be connected to the walls that support it…that doesn’t mean you have to go out and buy hurricane ties. hurricane ties properly installed will certainly cover you for the uplift you should expect to experience in upstate NY…but there is a good chance you could also get away with toe nailing the truss to the top plate…so long as the size type and number of fasteners are capable of resisting the anticipated loads.
it is called design…not just pick whatever stuff looks like it is going to hold the thing together. that is the problem with many contractors…they don’t have the first clue about what is actually required by code…they just know what they did on the last project or the one before that…
Well with me not having a clue, try toe nailing a truss to a top plate through the heavy gauge joining plate the typical connects the chords right over the contact point with the plate. The connector I recommended works well because of the manner in which you approach the operation of nailing. Even still you sometimes need to tack a TECO nail through the truss plate. I have respect for architects and engineers but that is the difference between practice and paper. I do both so please don’t discount the experience contractors have hands on in the field. Not all are beer belching, ass scratching, hackers.
i have a great deal of experience in and out of the office as well and know better than to assume whatever i did on the last project is still going to be acceptable on the next one.
i’m sure the situation you describe is the very reason why many people choose to use simpson connections for all sorts of conditions where there is an equally strong fastener connection available. although i’m sure toe nailing and steel connectors are the most common i would expect there is also an acceptable connection from below that would use lag bolts through the top plate or better yet through the top plate and the corresponding stud below…the point of the code isn’t to tell you exactly how to achieve resistance to a load…it just describes where and when you have to resist loads…its up to you to figure out how you are going to do it
and again…i’m not arguing over whether or not uplift connections are a good idea…they are…but they aren’t going to make a 2x4x12’ @ 24"oc wall even the least bit stronger…actually it might make sense to just leave them off…at least that way the roof will just blow away instead of tearing apart the inadequate wall structure below 
You have my apologies Sterm.
…see that wasn’t so hard…
I was apologizing for you.
…yeah you are right…
…i should have given better advice…
…here let me try again…
when you are stapling the tyvek on be sure to double up your staples at the corners or better yet mount the tyvek with spray adhesive…it adds like 10% to the strength of the walls…i’ve done it like a million times and every wall seems super strong afterwards…
working on one of my rentals today it occurred to me to get this comparison picture to illustrate just how different and ‘old’ 2x4 is from a modern 2x4. This one was probably put into this house sometime between 1910 and 1920. As you can see it is substantially larger and the grain is much finer than that of a modern day big box store 2x4. This particular house is all 2x4 balloon framing at 16oc with 2x8 floor joists throughout.