:tup: if you need to use a lathe, get in touch with me or @focusinprogress
@newman - Can you elaborate on your harness? I’m curious to know what other people do on their harness…there are 100 ways to do something right. I’m curious to know as I may learn something.
Crimp and Solder - Ratchet crimp, Radio Shack generic hand tool, Pliers followed by butane, hot knife, hand wand, using rosin core, no clean, added flux…clean up???
Where do you buy your sleeving (F6?) and shrink tubing?
Breakouts - How do you keep them from slipping?
Runouts - How do you make them seamless?
Since it’s not fair to just unload and not provide any value my self:
Crimp and Solder - I’ve done a number of wiring projects…as of recent I’ve been leaning away from solder; I preface this as I am curious to the pros and cons in any application. There are a million schools of thought…here is mine: Soldering is an art form. If you have the time to build the harness and properly attach, clean, and protect each connection it is by far the cleanest looking install. However, I have spent 6 months re-building a harness with “soldering” versus 5 weeks on virtually the same harness with crimped connections. Don’t get me wrong…they look completely different to those that know what to look for. But, functionally they are identical; I’d even state reliability is equal in terms of lifespan (The car will die first). Soldering has limitations on larger gauge wiring as it creates a rigid connection and limits the flexibility of the harness. Solder wicking can even impede harness installation if overdone. So what does this all mean? I went from 100% soldered connections to 100% crimped. Mainly due to value of my time. I justify this as I have stripped an entire USDM and a JDM harnesses independently. The amount of crimped versus soldered connections is staggering in favor of crimped. I will re-state that there is nothing wrong with either configuration and butt-splices are the ugliest piles of shit on a harness. That being said, your harness is better than any I have made. Because Motorcycle.
Where do you buy your sleeving (F6?) and shrink tubing? - Everything I have ever bought was from http://www.cableorganizer.com/f6-wrap-around/
Breakouts - How do you keep them from slipping? - Typically I run a inch or two of small F6 under the larger F6 and bundle with electrical tape. Works well.
Runouts - How do you make them seamless? - Sizing the 4:1 shrink tubing is key. I measure the larger diameter bundle -10% to ensure a good seal. For the smaller runouts I leave the F6 exposed with the 1 inch overlap.
Feel free to PM me if you like.
Terminals: The soldering and crimping is all ring terminals. There are no plugs at all on the bike. Fuckin harley. All wire to wire connections (splices, prewired switches and bulb sockets) are soldered and shrink tubed then taped then sleeved. The only reason I solder the rings on as well is just for peace f mind that the vibration won’t kill it. I don’t think it would be an issue, but there were only a handful of terminals that needed to go on, in the end, not a big deal. I don’t have a ratchet tool for these type of terminals (just standard home depot style with the plastic sleeve portion removed) so I just use pliers.
The sleeving I use is the F6 split (although after spending 60 bucks on more from cableorganizer, I found it all on amazon for nearly half the price. CO charged me nearly 20 bucks for standard shipping on 6 oz of wire. :roll2: It’s so much easier to use the split in applications like this.
Breakouts I just tape internally, have about 1" of sleeving overlap inside, then shrink tube before and after cut to 100 to 150 percent of the larger diameter. That may not be the best way, but it seems secure and works for me.
Runouts I just overlap about an inch and sleeve as appropriate.
Honestly, I’m 100% sure you would build a nicer harness than me, but this job was %100 nicer than %99 of chopper wiring jobs, so I considered it doing it “right”. 
can you just do something original for once? geeze
Someday if I’m lucky.
Thanks for the feedback!
It looks awesome.
Percent 100
I noticed that but didn’t think anything of it…mathematical meaning???
Got my tank back from Andy at Zeon’s Collision, he did a very good job as usual. Took it for a ride. Rocker clutch is going to take me a while to get used to. I’m too used to suicide clutches. Pushrod tubes were leaking so those are getting replaced today. I also need to make a bracket to mount the sissy to the seat because it vibrates too much.
:tup:
The taillight and its bracketry are fucking gonzo! :tup: It’s always in the details.
The handle bars look sketchy. I don’t know if I could ride with my hands that close.
Yeah. It would be hard to ride if you’re a pussy.
:tup: I must be a pussy.
seriously.
I spotted a bike the other day (don’t ask me what kind) with a tank painted kinda the same blue. It just looked like an older Japanese bike with paint, but the color made me look twice.
Goatse.cx
A little modification and some general maintenance.
Rebuilt the transmission. Previous owner had done some pretty dumb things when building it before which allowed the main drive gear to walk which shredded the seal which in turn just dumped oil fuckin everywhere all year.
Replaced: main case race, main bearings, main drive gear bushing, main seal, main drive gear spacer (with oring), mainshaft seal and all new gaskets. Also had to fab a custom thrust washer to set countershaft endplay. Replaced the top cover with a nice baker unit.
Used plenty of:
I should have that problem licked, so I cleaned the hell out of the bike, also added a baker straight kicker am and a new kicker pedal.
This was the handshift lever that was on the bike when I got it.
So I made this one. I am going to make a different shift knob, but I found this urethane ball and bored it in the lathe to use as a place holder. Making this knob took less than 5 minutes. Nothing is ever quick and easy… except this shift knob.
I actually liked how ratty the old shifter looked.