I’ve really had my mind set on getting a 240 soon, but recently, a miata and beamer have also
caught my interest. I actually plan on doing more ‘time trial’ type driving more than drifting, but
everywhere I go it seems like people frown upon lapping a 240sx and saying it’s “a completely different
tool for a completely different purpose”
so yeah, is it a decent lapping car or is it too naturally a drifter?
People that say a 240sx isn’t a good grip car are stupid.
There are a lot of us, that go out to lapping days, have actual s13/s14 race cars, and time attack cars.
Youtube, Mosport S13 or S14, and you’ll see what I mean.
They are outstanding cars for track, just need to be set up right. You can’t have your front lip scraping the floor, and your suspension always hitting your bump stops and think your car will handle right. A properly set-up suspension on a s13/s14, backed by how cheap it is to build a proper one versus other cars (after market support) makes it awesome. Many of us have raped these more expensive cars on track. People just say they aren’t good track cars because how well they drift.
With that said, a well setup or poorly setup 240sx, will still drift. lol. But then all lightweight rear wheel drive cars do.
You’re saying that a 240sx is more so a drift car then a miata or a bmw. Both which are also rwd vehicles. And both which are used in cscs drift events. But like what was said. Of course a rwd car is gonna get loose on the track. It comes down to how you drive. But I do track my s13. I do not drift it. Nor do I intend to. Its a time trial car for me.
its a 2500lb rwd chassis. Do whatever you want with it.
This is quite a stupid question.
chill. just heard a lot of misconceptions so I was curious. 
u drive a 96 Saab Who are you jerry seinfeld or somthing? lol
watch out bro, your dissing the GREEN BEAST… rear seats AND spare tire removed… its probably stanced for drifting.
LOL. like I said, I’m in the market xd
LOL like Rear Seats + Spare Removed is a modification. Because Race Car!
A great choice would be an MR2. They’re cheap, quick and handle better in a grip drive situation because the engines bearing down on the tires that spins.
Just make sure the rear tires are atleast 2 sizes wider, polyurethane front bushings and some coilovers with adjustible camber plates and youre set.
I hope to have an AW11 someday to put them B18/k20 swap Civics, Tegs & CRXs in their place on AutoX courses. (:
you do realize that most cars are crash tested WITH the spare tire in place as it adds structure to most trunk pans… right?
I’ve got an s13 prepped for track, and i give alot of ppl a run for their money even with turbo’d cars 
It can be done, if built right… but most people used to argue with me about “you don’t need this”, or “you should just get this” and bottom line is don’t give a fuck about people’s opinions. Do what pleases you with YOUR car
As far as my advice goes. Forget power. That’s the first thing EVERYONE likes to do… forget it. Concentrate on handling, grip and control. That is…:
-make the car lighter if you’re serious (I dropped slightly over 300lbs of my s13 hatch). If you’re even more serious, you’ll want to get some frp/carbon replacement panels/hood/etc… Only go with doors if you’re going to have a cage which u should. S13 doors are ridiculous like 65lbs each. If you’ve got more money still, legan windows. Our stock windows are heavy as hell… but then glass usually is…
-Get lightweight wide wheels (RPF1s rock) and wide sticky tires (I love NT01s) I’m running 255/40/17 all around but I’ll be going to 295/30/18 all around
-Get quality shocks… Fuck what everyone else says. If it doesn’t have the names bilstein, koni, moton or jrs on them, don’t bother with them. All the china/japan shit is shit. I run koni 8611 double adjustable race shocks front and rear. Rides like a dream on track. Still managable on street compared to the china shit. Their job is not to SLAM your car, their job is to control the wheels and body motion.
-Get rid of all the thousands of bushings on the 240sx with pillow ball mounted arms instead, including rear upright. You could get a z32 upright saves about 8lbs per corner of unsprung weight.
-Get an s14/s15 subframe, the s13 one likes to slide because it’s got slightly inferior geometry than the s14/s15 which were made to drive like a normal car not a slide happy car. Less anti-squat, slightly wider, and LCA mounts are positioned slightly differently too, and toe curve is better.
-Get better brakes… everyone used to make fun of my idea that the 240sx brakes suck a bag of dicks… then slowly the same big boys got the exact kit I was suggesting a willwood big brake kit front and rear from arizona z car… anyways, personally I believe you need a set of quality rotors that will take abuse and heat… and a good caliper with good pads… Most people will say stock crap is good enough if you just get new rotors and better pads and brake lines… Brake lines are a given they give better feel vs the rubbery stock crap… But they are wrong, they are not driving their car hard enough. I had 300zx calipers front and rear as an upgrade… it was barely any better, got some slightly more aggressive pads and it sure stopped better but the rotors could not take the heat. Screw that. Waste of money getting junkyard crap. Also you need STICKY TIRES to stop faster… so keep that in mind. Sticky tires are your friend. All seasons are the devil, summer tires at least… and r comp tires if you wana compete.
-Now you can consider some power… what I did though is work up the ka… yes the ka… and on track ppl thought i had a turbo sr (o_O wtf?), it’s just a bloody ka… BUT… got a lightweight driveshaft, i got a 9lbs flywheel, i got a cerametallic puck clutch, i got a 4-2-1 header, exhaust, intake, better wires, better coil, timing advance, short shifter and i forget what else right now but bottom line is… the lil bastard became rev happy, although with the ka i never go beyond 5500rpm it just falls off at that point i just upshift. I can heel & toe super quick through corners, shift up, shift down and it goes through the revs fast. I could hit 230km/hr with my ka (yes but its slow as hell to get there past the 180 mark heh)… i have a different ecu which doesn’t have top speed limiter.
-Lastly aero every bit helps… wing, front splitter, rear diffuser, full flat underbody like sasha did on his old s14…
So there…
Personally though I would have gotten an fd rx7 and upgraded that… but since im already deep in this shit I’m going to stick it out with my 240sx… plus i have a love love relationship with it 
I’ve owned the car since 2006 and don’t intend to get rid of it but just keep rebuilding/building it
I did not know that o.O. But it’s free weight off though… lol
This is a really good response. I was hoping on getting a T version of sr20 or ka24 but yeah, for sure the handling comes first!
All in all, I was thinking of getting used shocks, and only brake pads to begin, then work my way to the rims.
If I were to get an S13, would I also invest in a sub-frame? And I’ll try for a rear sway bar too I’m guessing,
or will that make the car even more slide happy?
And about the cage, I also want to DD my car for the simplicity of having only one car. I haven’t even been in a 240 yet,
but I’m hoping some aftermarket seats can be installed to lower my driving height and make the cage safer…
You don’t need to go full cage for ridgidty. But its best. And real cage won’t effect your head room. I run a 4point weld in on my daily. Head is nowhere near the main hoop. You just gotta remember if doing heavy track related modifications you also may run the risk of streetablity for your vehicle. In a legal sense. Can’t be daily driving tubed front or rear ends. Just a warning to avoid annoying harrasment. If you really care about performing on the track. Make sure to pick carefully the parts you use. Just buying your average part for mods is ok. But if you want it to perform and truly assist spend the extra cash and get the model up. If not the top of the line. Don’t half ass things. Half assing causes you to do things twice. And most people hate having to do something twice.
i thought Mr-2’s are oversteer monsters ive driven a couple and they i can tell you the ae86 or 240sx would be waaay better for grip.
there’s a reason there aint many mr2s that raced… But they did race in the supergt/jgtc as far as i recall… but in a totally different trim… just like the silvias… they had frickin inboard suspension and a bunch of other super awesome stuf
Theoretically an mr2 should be wicked… i used to dream of getting one… but honestly… the funny thing is… i used to want an mk1.5 (meaning, mk1 with mk2 turbo engine) and i was like WOW that’s gonna be AWESOME… super light super fast…
But you know what lol i raced against a few mr2s on track and was VERY VERY dissapointed… there was also a supercharged mr2 mk1 … very very dissapointed as well… of all things… i was outcornering them…
Still it would be an interesting build… albeit the mk1s would be a project like rebuilding an s30… as they are so damn rusted… and they were super rusted even 10 years ago when i was interested in them haha… they are after all mid 80s cars…
Now a car I would love to have and build up is an nsx… that would be pretty sweet. IMO the mr2 and nsx could use some aero to make it stick better… which is what ive noticed alot of owners do (nsx at least)… a mid engined car can snap and not come back alot easier than our rwd fellas… but then again when i think about it… not for the average guy either… aero will make the car snap without warning as well haha… meh… our cars are easy to drive and work… why break what’s working The only exception to the rule is… i would have gotten an fd rx7 instead