how much suck am i looking at? scale of 1-10 plz. should i replace the flywheel as well?
I don’t see why you would have to replace the flywheel, just resurface it.
Can’t tell you how much of a pita it will be though. Good luck!
It is 6 hours book labor.I looked at the step by step looks pretty easy.
i heard resurfacing the flywheel changes the clutch engagement point. i figure why not just replace it while im in there. what are pros and cons with chrome moly vs aluminum flywheels?
thoughts on this
http://gripforce.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_191_193&products_id=195
When resurfacing a flywheel you are remove like .001 of material.Should not be anything you notice
I mean unless you want to spend more $$ and upgrade I wouldn’t bother.
I have a multi-piece aluminum flywheel in the vette, and the difference was noticeable. Lighter weight will allow you to rev faster, having less rotating inertia is always a good thing.
i looked at the all data times as well. but seeing as how i dont have a garage or lift and would be on my back in my driveway doing this, i dont see it being a project i want to tackle 
yea it changes the point a little bit not much. And I would think its just a everyday rwd clutch. Ask around and get a repair step by step from someone off, mitchell on demand ect ect…as long as you have the basic tools you should be all set :tup:
Aluminum Flywheel
A lightweight flywheel isn’t for everyone, as it does change the way the car drives, but there are big gains to be had, strictly outside of its reduction in mass. In the September 2008 issue of PHR, we got into more detail about steel versus aluminum flywheels. The gist is a steel flywheel stores more energy and keeps things running smoother than an aluminum one because of the high rotational inertia. This is why a lot of companies make lightened steel flywheels to create a middle ground. The corollary argument is that a light flywheel also accelerates quicker in its rotation while providing an overall reduction in vehicle mass.
im aware of the performance pros cons but am more interested in the driveability and wear/failure of the aluminum. and i forgot to mention 
You need a big jack, stands, and a transmission jack.I am sure swerve,don,or innovative will takle this.All three have very low labor rates.
i pmed rich at swerve waiting to hear back ( im assuming after noonoclock) i havent called the don and mike/innovative has been too busy as of late for me to get through so im too lazy to keep tryin. continental in west seneca quoted me 300 out the door on labor which doesn’t seem too bad but im not really trying to spend that much (cause im a broke ass nugga)
thoughts on this
http://gripforce.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_191_193&products_id=195
well at 6hours labor I do not see 300 being bad.That is a solid deal @ 50 an hour.
this sentence confuses me. are you saying pony up the beans to continental?
If my car was done i would say you coud use my shop:/
That’s assuming you only need to remove .001" of material. Often, it’s a few hundredths. Plus, the wear on the flywheel from normal use, etc…
Is there an adjustable master on the S2k? That would solve that problem right there.
I have changed an S2K trans, clutch, engine last year when I worked at xxx Honda. The S2K drivetrain and engine bay suck so fucking bad to work on/in LOL. Coming from an all RWD car backround (old Toyotas, old Volvos) I thought I knew what I was in for, yeah right! The engine bay is so tight, especially the intake side. There is absolutely no clearance between the firewall and the bell housing/bolts. The starter is crazy, you can’t see it really. You have to remove the alternator to get an extention back to the nuts/bolts that you can never see, just feel 
I’ve worked on cars for too long including 7+ years at dealerships and this job took me by surprise. Oh, make 100% sure you put the clutch fork back through the bellhousing hole before you re-install the trans. If you do this at home you’ll definitely need a a huge jack that can go 2+ ft up and the bigger (med?) jack stands that go that high as well. You also need a couple 12pt sockets for the PP and flywheel bolts. Can’t remember the sizes, maybe 12 and 14 or 17?
That is such a deal, I bet they looked a the time guide (without knowing the vehicle) and figure they’ll make time on it! I probably wouldn’t do this job for $300 cash on the side LOL. I would have them do it for that price if you think they’re a trustworthy shop.
Did you use to work at volvo?
white MK2 those were the responses i was looking for thank you! now to throw another curveball in the mix, the service advisor where i work said i can use the lifts here on sats from 8-5. ive never done a clutch before, should i attempot this or should i pay someone? im leaning heavily towards not doing it myself…
I just did my first tranny replacement on a miata and it was cake. I did it on the floor and it took me a good 8 hours.