pete doesnt have a welder, there he goes blowing smoke again… welding cast iron and getting a strong bond between the 2 different types of metal is difficult, especialy if half of the equation has carbon residue all over it…
hahaha allright then, anyone else? lmao :headbang
go weld and quit bein a :gay haha jkjk
Corrected 
(sorry for being nosey)
its all good, any input helps, i heard somewhere its possible if it is heated in an oven to 400 degrees and then welded (obviously cleaned first)
Why not save up and do an sr20det swap?
you knew what i was getting at. ;D
that would be the easy way out, im not looking for a race car, how many people turbo a ga16de? not many, what does everyone do? they all go and buy a sr20de for 2k and then spend another 4k+ on turbo shit and motor work
i would rather keep the turbo i have and the engine thats allreaddy pulled and just do that…i figured if i can find someone to weld for me, i just have to weld the turbo flange to the stock mani. there is a writeup on the nissanforum that im on
linkyy linkyy
I think the reason people don’t turbo your motor is as exactly as you said, the SR20 is much easier to do. Why do some junkyard/backyard turbo set up, when Nissan makes a much better suited motor that will drop right in. You don’t have to have a built motor with the sr20, it can be completely stock. You will be turbo with a much more stout motor from the start. I don’t want to argue, just my 2 cents.
http://www.nissanforums.com/ga16de-1-6l-engine/145879-turbo-manifolds.html
and one of the guys has pics and shit in his cardomain page…doesnt look that bad
yeah i know what your saying, i was still debating trying to get a sr until the engine hit the ground then i realised its better for my wallet if i didnt and i also dont want to argue, you are entitled to your opinion and i respect your input
T & F…when welding cast iron you either have to heat it and keep it hot(~800-1200F slow preheat but NEVER exceed 1400F!!!), then follow a VERY SLOW cooling procedure(bury in sand or place in timed cooldown oven)
OR keep it cool(below 200F) and stitch weld in short bursts.
Always best to plasma nickle/bronze weld when possible, stick weld with something like 55Ni or Ferrorod when not.
Not doing either of these will result in cracks immediately.
In reality, any cast iron part that has been heat cycled as hot as a manifold is will have poor welding characteristics due to precipitates, cleaned or not. You won’t remove it all. Welding will be sub-par durability/longevity even with the best weld.
well these guys havent had a problem haha, you sound like you know how to do it, no? :ninja
Perhaps you missed this :lol
Seriously dude,
I understand everyone wants to be “differant” from everyone else. Yes everyone does a DET swap or just boosts their existing SR20, but for a simple fact, its a solid motor its cheap, you can get just an SR20DE for 300-600 bucks depending on where you look with low miles… get everything for a simple turbo setup for under a thousand… and providing you dont half ass it it will last a good ammount of time.
you can get a ton more performance and aftermarket support with the SR20, itd be less money and more cost efficant to get an SR20… not to mention there would be a lot more room for growth…
just my 2 cents
im not discouraging you, im just saying be differant doesnt mean better
i know dude, its just that i allreaddy have the turbo and the engine, if i were to do a sr now i will have to buy a new engine or donor car and a new turbo and start all over
Why would you need a new turbo?
roflmao leave me alone, im tired haha and im all confuzed with this turbo bullshit and now i dont want this engine haha :headbang(“fuck fuck fuck”) :nuts :idiots
wat turbo sir?
cause if i get a sr20 i wouldnt use this puny ass turbo that can only put out like 15-20lbs of boost