Hey guys,
Whats a good SR20DET Turbo Manifold worth buying? I am staying away from SS Autochrome/OBX, MEGAN products.
I want something with decent wall thickness and will work with the stock T25.
Let em know VIA PM or posting.
Cheers!
are you kidding me…
first off dont post in all caps.
second theres nothing wrong with the meagan ones… many of us have beat the shit out of them and i personally have had it white hot on many occasions with no issues.
3rd… this should probly be in car chat.
regardless… your going to be dropping BIG COIN on a mani if you dont like any of the ones you mentioned.
GT
why would you spend all that money on a manifold just for the stock turbo?
A thicker manifold is only required when you don’t have extra support for the weight of the turbo. Mild steel needs to be coated or it startes to rust internally and that gets pulled into the turbine blades, stainess steel expands 3-8x as mush as mild steel, making one from stainless in a thicker material means that thermal expansion goes up even more… which means you now have to make clearences at everybolt point which means it’s going to be sloppy.
If you want I can build you a mandrel bent from heavier stock… but your looking at ~ $550 to $850 depending on the complexity of the header…
Although I’m not a big fan of the megan, it seems to work well and is MADE cheaper then the materials can be bought for in canada… never mind fitting/cutting/welding
edit by Hamsterboy
i dont see anything wrong with the Megan mani - or any of their products for that matter
I love posting a question, which means I’m asking opinions and for your help, and people snap on you.
A) I sell megan, and know the product and what to stay away from.
B) <---- Are these caps ok?
C) Like I said, im trying to get open for suggestions so I can research, this 240 stuff and SR20DET are brand new to me, so bare with me.
Cheers
if you read the rules we respectfully ask that no one post in all caps… that is all… if you choose to be ignorant to the subject then i will speak to you accordingly.
the megan one would work jsut fine for your application… and i would highly suggest it.
otherwise
http://www.store.yahoo.com/phase2motorsports/hkssrtustma.html
http://www.store.yahoo.com/phase2motorsports/sirostmasr.html
http://www.store.yahoo.com/phase2motorsports/jicsr20detex.html
although they all look the same pretty much.
GT
first of all you are all mis informed on manifolds except greg who knows about this…
the reason those cheap manifolds crack is because people do not bolt up their downpipe to tranny mount and use old woren out stock exhaust hangers.
when you think about what is going on it is easy to see how its happening
a 6 foot exhaust weighing 45 lbs is placing all of its weight on the turbo putting stress on the manifold. when use a solid downpipe to tranny mount and solid urathane mounts on the exhaust 95% of the weight is taken off of the turbo/manifold.
this is why you see peoples who crack in 2 months and people who have had theirs for over a year.
the megan manifold is great, i have one and its quality for the price is amazing.
… I’m misinformed on manifolds ??
the reason cheap manifolds crack are varied… one reason is weight, as I mentioned above… the other reason is why I don’t like megan myself, the flanges are mild steel, the bends are stainless, as I mentioned above both have very different expanson rates, over time this can lead to cracks at the joints between the two different metals, the fact that the megan is machine TIGed is a point in it’s favor on this particualr issue. But the header is still missing an undermounted support bracket for the turbo. If the turbo wasn’t a fairly light T25/28 then I’d suggest brackets all around…
and yes for the price it’s a very good product… as mentioned above the matrials alone (metal/bends) is worth the same up here as it is to buy that part.
no not you.
the original poster.
GT
i find the megan better then some of those thick japanese manifolds with 25 welds per pipe becuase the megan manifolds have very few welds, this is cuz they are all mandrel bent pipes…its all about how stiff ure motor mounts are and how much stress ure huge ass exchaust places on the manifold like scott said…
Rotor, if you were fabbing a custom manifold, how would you do it? You pointed out that mild steel rusts, and stainless steel expands too much and has to have clearances at every bolt making it sloppy. What would you use then, and how would you build it? This is not a challenge by any means, I’ve just noticed that you happen to know more than most, and am really interested in learning myself, which is why I’m directing it at you. Anyone else is free to field an answer as well.
the “ONLY” SR manifold that is worth buying over the megan (or other knock-offs) is the full-race versions.
if you spend $$$ on the JIC and HKS and dont install it properly, ie. not supporting the weight of the exhaust / turbo then it will last just as long as the Megan / SSAC no question.
but if you buy the Megan or similar (like the ones i have been getting) “AND” install it properly, ie. using support brackets, good engine and tranny mounts, then you can buy 4 of the cheaper manifolds before you match the price of the HKS / JIC
the fact is that the brand name version wont last 4 times longer, and it is unlikely that any of us will have our cars or engines long enough to burn through 4 properly installed manifolds anyways.
there are guys all over the place running in the 12’s on stock turbos or T28’s with the knock-off manifolds.
or…full-race:
but you could buy 8 of the cheap manifolds before u match the price of the full race.
also keep in mind that the full-race will also produce much more power than all the other manifolds as well.
I’ve build quite a few headers in my day and I’ve got it down to a science… I use stainless, period, unless I’m getting it fireball coated, then I’ll use mild steel grudingly… not for any other reason than Ontario is brutal on mild steel and even with fireball one scratch can have it rusting like crazy.
I start with a CNC drawing of the head gasket, and make it in pieces, no less then two for a 4 banger leaving 1/8" gap between the two flanges, this reduces the metals potential for stress at the center points. I use a softer TIG rod then the actual material I’m using to reduce the chance of fracturing a weld on some corners or elbows I use sched 10 cast stainless pipe for strength if I’m using a T03 or larger I make a support bracket that connects down the bottom of the block somewhere to support and share weight loads. I’m not giving away all my hard won secrets but suffice to say alot of work is needed to design a good stainless or mild header.
Speckcheck by Hamsta
Order a Full Race Mani and stfu…
mmm full race
just look at that collector
^^^ Have you seen the one that NHR put on Mike’s Drift (Show) car?
The one from Tuner Transformation?
OMG the hottest manifold ever…
not up close, but clearly they are the best manis out there. fucking gorgeous man. The way they are constructed, collector out, with all equal length, the way it should be done. Not ok lets start here and try to get all the pipes into this square here!
anddd GO!
taiwanese monkeys pull out their tigs
This is what $1000usd will get you if you want keep a T25 flange in the Stock Location:
They also Offer a Full Top Mount T3 Header as well… It’s only $1400USD
best manifold on the market BAR-NONE
and i wont ever own it sadly.