Just got my SKUNK 2 forged lug nuts in the mail
Started to thread them on, they go on like 3 thread and tighten up a ton. I can keep threading them but it sounds like aluminum cutting, they are tight but Im just worried
Im not sure if maybe when they were threaded the aluminum sprung back a little bit and thats making them tight. Im scared to put em on now and now I have no lug nuts for the wheels.
Any suggestions or is this normal with the aluminum lugs
do you have the right pitch threads for lugnuts?
such as you may need 12x1.25 where you may have bought 12x1.5 or bought standard thread for metric threads. sounds like you have wrong lugnuts IMO
Yes that is all correct. Honda Civic M12 x 1.5
The ones I had on my old Honda went on easy, like any other lugnut
yeah these not so much and I just dont know what to do
so they were tight, yet you continued to tighten them?
sounds like you need to send them back and request a new set. doesn’t sound like the right pitch.
buy an m12x1.5 die and run it down the lugs first, they’ll thread on perfect then. it’s probably just corrosion or road dirt on the threads that needs to be cleaned off.
As I said earlier they are the correct Pitch. If they were tight I didnt thread them on, I stop with they got to hard to hand tighten.
Some go on all the way hand tight but they still feel tighter then normal. And that was only about 5 out of 20 did that.
I didnt force anything
The thread are fine, its the first time the lugs have been off. My only though is because the threads are so new on the studs the peeks are still full and the aluminum is getting caught.
I was in the process of buying a tap and die when the power went out so I will go back tomorrow and buy both and Im going to run it over the studs and through the lugs to see how they feel
cross threads are better than no threads
HAHAHA. Yeah thats not the case either
Are you using these on OEM wheels? If so you CAN’T do that. Honda uses acorn-seat lugs, and those Sk2 lugs you bought are taper-seat. You’ll destroy your stock wheels and never get the proper holding torque.
As for the thread issues. New or not, they should go on easily, as in hand tight all the way to the wheel seat. Are they getting tight before they even meet the wheel material?
I have aftermarket wheels with taper seat yes. I know that aswell
Only some lugs go on hand tight to the wheel seat, even then they are tight while screwing them on. I know they should spin on freely, Im just trying to find out if this is a common thing with the aluminum forged lug nuts. Im going to grab the tap and die kit tonight anyway to check ever stud and lug nut with as well
Not too common with good lugs. I never had that problem with either my Volks or my Project Kics.
The only thing I can think of is maybe whoever put on your wheels over tightened them a bit so it slightly stretched the length of the bolt. Hard to imagine, but I have seen it. Did you try putting anti-sieze on them and threading them on all the way without the wheel on it? Just to assess whether it has anything to do with tight clearances or actual thread damage?
i havent thrown never seize on yet. This is the first time the stock lugs have been off as well so if they were stretched it was from the factory I guess.
Also, these are good lug nuts, its not like they are a 19.99 set from pep boys.
My latest thought, is that the threads in the lug nut might not be fully clean and possibly because they are aluminum and how fast it gets hot that there was some slight shrinking during cooling and when i run the tap through things will free up. Aswell as the heating during the anodizing process
Those particular lugs have a good reputation, and I highly doubt it has anything to do with heat treating or anodizing. Anodizing is not done with heat, it’s done with current, in a temperature controlled ionic bath.
As far as I know the lugs aren’t even tapped until after the machining and heat treat process occurs anyway. My guess is that your stock lugs are a bit stretched. Try the tap and it should be a non-issue.
that is what I meant by the anodizing process it is in a basically boiling bath at one point. I do not know that actual manufacting process but from looks anodizing was done after the threads were cut which makes sense
well here is my next question.
Is there anyone locally that carries any lug nuts from volk, rays, mcgard.
anyone, that I can go by another set.
Im not convinced that my studs are stretch that much from the factory, this is the first time they are off and the car as 2000 miles on it
Locally no.
As for the anodizing, the boiling bath is still too low a temperature to do structural rearrangment of alloyed aluminium.
Do you just want to try to thread a couple on, or buy another full set? If you just want to test a couple…, I have a few unused Volk/Rays ones that are my spares. You can test it on the same ones that are hangin up with your new ones.
Forgot to ask, but are the stock lugnuts sticking on the same lugs the new ones are sticking on? What if you take another stock lugnut from another stud and try it, do they stick also?
I can thread the stocks on hand tight no problem everywhere, as well as the chrome set that I had lying around, its just the skunk2’s having the issue, thats why im thinking of running the tap through.
I was looking to just buy a full new set if someone local had em
I also was just reading through my material on anodizing and it appears that hard coat is a 50% build up of the total thickness your going for but threads can builb up up to 4x that amount. That could be some of the tightness that I am feeling. I think the tap is going to be my best bet this evening
ran a tap through the lugs and a die over the studs. All lug nuts can be put on hand tight now, still snug running ontot them but much better and Hopefully saturday I can have the wheels and tires on, then gotta measure for the suspension and get the fenders rolled.
thanks to everyone