Just found out, 5 minutes ago i got a Manager job at a countertop place out near lathem. making 17/hr and 18.75/hr after 3 months… so no more 31 an hour but i well fun while it lasted
i get paind too…everytime i look at my paycheck and know its allready spent its a pain
so how much would a MIG class at the school of Harold run me? Fuck I’ll even work in the shop. Welding is something that in my current hobby I must know how to do and do well.
Wayne if you ever find out about a welding class let me know, I need to work on my skillz!
Proffessor Hank that would be a good shift 518 picture
+1 to what Hank said. I’ve done the classes at Modern Welding and didnt learn all that much. I learned more by screwing around with scrap metal at home. I can join metal, but I wouldn’t call it welding. Need more practice.
Spend the money from classes on a welder and a pile of scrap metal. Then have someone like Hank check your work and give you pointers. Repeat.
pointer number 1.
the welder only works when the light is on and the ground cable is hooked up. OOOPs. u must of foregot that :lol
one student a month is all i can handle right now.
LOL, thats a good one! :lol
pointer 2
all those holes in ur weld. weld if thats what u call. but it kind of looks alot like sugar now.
oooopps yes u should of turned shield gas on first!!! :idiots
Question:
How can I avoid burning though thin sheet metal (import body panels)? I’m on the lowest current setting and running 0.024" wire. It seems I either get shitty weld blobs that don’t stick or burn though…
what wire r u using??? not size type. solid wire, flux cored, inner shield or outer shield??
I’m using Solid, with Ar/CO2 shielding gas get around 10psi (i think…). I don’t know what inner or outer shield is.
you might as well start to learn with welding thin panels cause face it or not most cars these days dont have the sheet metal thickness as a older car so learning to weld thin will make thicker metal alittle easier for you down the road.
first of all if ur trying to weld it vertically up it ain’t gonna happen. go down hill.
not sure exactly what or were ur trying to weld.
the tighter ur stick out is (gap between nozzle and object 2b welded.) the hotter it will be. u can vary ur amp by about 5 to 10 amps by playing with this distance. i.e further away less heat closer more heat.
if u can get a backer plate be hide it that will help greatly disappate the heat. if not try to weld small sections in one area at a time about 1/2" or so. you’ll be more able to tell then me. if the base metal looks like it’s gonna fall out u went to long.
biggest thing is if ur welding in a patch panel or small piece. let’s say a 3x3 square or 3" circle. ur gonna want to go at least a 1.5" beyond that point or more or less depending on how the base material is that ur welding to. u basically want cut out all the old stuff to get to good sturdy base before u try to weld in a the patch panel.
if my grammar and spelling sucks fuck u lol I’m exhausted and inhaled more welding fumes the anyone human should in 1 day :confused :idiots
fahk u learn on 1.5" plate :banana. worry about smaller shit later just remember to adjust ur settings accordingly :wow
hey ease up boss man i dont bug you with questions i learn by fucking shit up all on my own prime example my neon. lol :headbang
u take me too seiously sumtimes :haha
Exactly, learning to weld thin material is the wrong way to start. Pick up some 1/4 -1" scrap shit and weld that stuff. Learn how to prep the weld seams as that’s the most important, and most overlooked, step of the whole process. Edge bevels and overlap where necessary are key to a good strong weld.
ninety1two40 if the weld is looking like “blobs”, your temp is too low or your wire speed to high. If the arc sputters in and out very fast your feed is too high, if the wire burns back to the tip it’s too low…adjust accordingly. Typical sheet metal these days on cars is about 18g, so set your welder to about 40amps, and if you have an adjustable feed from like 1-10 set it about 4-5. Typicall on an average lincoln mig, like my SP135T, this would be a “B” setting at 4.5wire feed for 16-18G sheetmetal. Keep the nozzel close to the metal(~1/4") and spot weld the material in. Trigger intervals of about a second area all you should need. Stitch weld in 1/2" increments, space far apart along the seam, on large flat panels to avoid thermal distortion(it WILL happen if you don’t heed that). Take your time and allow the metal to cool in between stitches(warm to the touch is fine). Sheilding gas you’re using is fine(“Stargon”), but turn the CFM up to about 15 or so. Helps to cool the weld pool quicker and keep the contaminates down. Metal should be lapped(flanged) like Hank said on any patch panel. But welds are guaranteed to warp and distort giving false bodylines.
If you’re tig welding 18G…1/16 tungsten, 60 degree taper, 25 amps, 16hz pulse and it’ll be beautiful. No need for filler if the seams a tight.
i believe he said he was on lowest setting and still burning thru. but tuff to say with out being there.
i think he may not be far enough out side of the contaminated area of base metal. how is ur fit up and prep r the two surfaces good and clean r there large gaps in ur fit up or r the pnaels to be welded tight?
Wow thanks guys, alot of good info that I didn’t know about!
I don’t have a body panel I’m working on now, I was just talking in general about past things I was trying to do. But yes I do understand about making sure to cut all the old rusted metal out enough for patch panels and the thermal distortion if I don’t tack the panel all the way around. What I didn’t know about is how the distance between the nozzle and metal might affect my current.
And I have welded more with thicker metals and can weld them pretty good. I know I have to work on preping the edges better and probably better grounds in come cases. I just have to get good enough so I can look at what I’m welding and know what settings to use. I’ll just have to get some thin scrap metal around and practice more.