Hey guys,
Anybody ever hear of an APR tune reverting back to stock from the 93 octane program without the driver telling it to? I have the fully loaded chip with Stock, 93 octance, 100 octane, and Valet. I put it in 93, hold “resume” until it blinks 3x a sec, the two lights flash and then I’m driving stage 1. It seems like when I let the car sit overnight, it reverts back to the stock setting and I have to redo the whole process.
Am I a victim of “operator error” here or is this a problem?
How do you know its reverting back?
Do you have a boost gauge? Easiest way to tell if its in stock mode VS what ever is the boost will be like 7-14psi stock, and about 18-2# in APR mode.
Only thing that could do it the voltage drops so far that the ECU resets, but somehow still starts the car. Which is doubtfull. Even though its winter and cold = less battery power… I would assume that it requires MORE voltage and amperage to start the car than it would to loose the ecu configuration. So if the car is starting fine, i would doubt that this is the issue.
Yeah, another forum said it could be the battery but the car starts and cranks fine. I can tell it is in stock because the power and torque just isn’t there. I don’t have a boost gauge but I can tell by feel and watching how the RPM’s react to the gas pedal. For example, in Stage 1 travelling at approx. 30mph I’ll floor the car, the RPM’s will immediately shoot to 5k and I’ll be pushed back into my seat a bit. In stock, same situation, the engine takes longer to get to 5k RPM’s and the acceleration isn’t as pronounced.
Do you think the battery could be on it’s way out? It is the stock battery in an '07.
Is it just when the car sits overnight, or everytime you cycle the key?
If the battery is starting the car without issue, it’s def got enough power to keep the ecu from resetting.
Considering that the battery is ~5 years old, I’d replace it regardless. 5 years is about all you’ll get out of a properly maintained battery in Upstate NY. Do it before it strands you in the cold!
Maybe that will help you. I started to read it, but it made me feel like I was back in 1988 entering the Konami Code into Contra.
Yeah, I think I’m going to get it checked today. Funny how I still remember the Contra code but I feel like the cruise control stalk is besting me in a game of wits.
I’d just replace it regardless. I guarantee that when it bits the shed, it’ll be at the worst time possible.
Get a boost gauge. “how it feels” isn’t a very good troubleshooting step with software tuning.
Also a vag com would help a lot here. If the battery is good enough to fire it, but not enough to supply power to the ECU WHILE cranking (voltage drops a lot while cranking) it could be resetting as you crank it over.
What I would do is key on, go into vagcom and check the status of the readyness. if all the ones that dont need the car running say pass then you know the last time your drove it they passed and ran fine. Then I would crank the car start it and refresh the readyness screen. if some of the ones that used to say pass, now say incomplete the ECU reset as you cranked it.
Moral of the story, get a battery anyways. Chances are VERY good this is the problem, and chances are just as good your battery needs to be replaced due to age/climate anyway.
Dont have vagcom. Battery tested as good and it only seems to happen when I leave it overnight. But not every time. I will absolutely get a boost gauge though. Any suggestions on make?
Hands down best gauge is AWE: http://www.awe-tuning.com/products/vw-1/mk5-g-j-2006/2-0t/awe-mk5boostgaugekit.html
I have one in my S4. Matches interior PERFECT. Pricey but worth it to look oem to me.
Here’s some pics in your car:
That being said, my S4 doesn’t switch back to stock unless the battery is removed or ECU is removed.
/\ this… which is why I figured it was “new parts syndrom”. Seems to skew the butt dyno from time to time.
Boost gauge… Anything with an electric sending unit. Becasue running some dumb thin ass hard nylon tube, trying not to kink it, melt it, pull it off, have a leak… sucks.
Best way to do it right is find a source on the intake manifold and tap into that. putting a T on a good healthy rubber line coming off a nipple and attaching the sending unit to that is cake, secure and fool proof. Run the wire from the sending unit into the car, hide it in a loom, what ever. looking under the hood, you will never know its there if its done right.