you’re not going to fix it, don’t lie.
looks like a solid repair, wonder if i could use a brazing rod as i don’t have a tig exactly handy…
If I pay you to fix it does that count?
you could mig that as well…
Newest two issues fixed for free:
Ebrake hasnt been working since a while back when it froze up on one of those 0 deg days and became completely loose. Turns out the drivers side adjuster had slipped in all the way. A quick readjustment and all was well again .
Fuel lever sender started freaking out. Like expected the little wire on the sending unit was broken (also the connector terms were really corroded). An hour or so later, a piece of wire, and some solder, and a little baking soda and all is well again.
EDIT: To date still no odd brake pulsing. 
if you have the short booties on the cables @ the caliper, it’s likely there will be water intrusion resulting in a swollen and eventually frozen/broken cable. hose WD-40 in the boots with a straw for a few days, then gob it full of white lithium to help give them a fighting chance. figure out the adjusters? they’re pretty goofy the first time…
Ya, the cables seem fine agian. I had them lubed up pretty good when I did the rear brakes over the summer and adjusted the cables.
And yep, those adjuster are wierd, but now that Ive messed with them a few times its no big deal.
Im just happy I didnt have to spend $300+ on the car this week.
Dan
nice. I’m looking into b5’s soon and glad to see this kind of stuff being done.
be picky and just get a nice one.
for real
Don’t do it. Avoid b5’s like a horny slut at a party with herpes
edit: nm. I am picky and this will go ot. ill make a thread if I ever decide what to maybe do
Or maybee try to find a nice B6?
Dan
So looks like I need to now replace the two lower rear control arms (which I just did like 1.5-2 years ago I think). The ball joint boots on both sides are riped, bad. The drivers side is pretty squeaky and starting to clunk, Im guessing the pass side isnt too far behind.
I was really hoping to get more than a couple years out of them. 
Dan
curved lower arms clunk, strait arms usually creak, don’t want you disappointed when there’s still a noise after you replace the obviously loose arms, you say WTF and you go 
b/c you need another arm or two.
Ya, this is a clunk as you are stopping. Like going very slow almost to a stop, any quick increase in brake pressure causes a clunk on that front left side. The boot on the balljoint was super ripped and really rusty inside. It would creak alot also as you turned the wheel. A little spray of lube stopped that.
New arm should be here tomorrow.
Sucks these things cant last more than a couple years.
Dan
Replaced the tie rod today, the ball joint was totally shot. Used the lift at my buddies shop, how fn nice. I think it took like 20 min to swap it out.
I also FINALLY raised up the back of the car by moving the little snap rings on the Bilsteins. Looks SOOO much nicer with no ass sag. I wish I had done it sooner, it only took like 30 min to do both sides.
Bad news tho, looks like both rear ebrake cables are finally done, rusted to hell and just wont come free. I guess its not so bad, the car is 10 years old wiht 160k miles.
Dan
Long term update.
I had the axles out this week doing the rear wheel bearings for the first time in 190k miles. (what a cock they were to get out).
The fix I did to the ring is still intact. Its a bit rustier now so you cant even tell exactly where I welded it back together, only where its tacked to the axle itself.
Also the rear tie rod eccentric bolts are fucking rusted in there solid. I gota fig out how the F Im going to get them out.
Dan
I use an SIR tools wheel bearing on the car installer, wind it up by hand, and strike the housing with a hammer and they’ll pop, repeat until completely out. Two prybars make quick work of popping the race off the hub, and back installed in under half an hour w/hand tools. Depending on how bad the alignment is, go and try to tweak the alignment in spec flexing the rubber bushing. If you can get it real real close without having to remove it, I would let sleeping dogs lie. Trying to extract the inner tie rod bolt when frozen is an act of congress… Subframe will likely have to hang, shield the tank and torch it out. Rear tie rods are a buck a piece too… two of those, two oem bolts, 2 oem ecentric washers, and two nuts will be over $300 in parts.
I got Myle tie rods for like $105 (pair) and the OE bolts, washers, nuts were $36 (pair) from GAP.
I just need to get them in. As you said, is where congress and magic come in.
I would leave them, but the ball joints on them are pretty shot. I gota get them out, somehow.
Dan
Hang the rear subframe down, and kill them with fire. I’ve done it before, and it’s no fun. Good hunting down all those parts… Last time I looked the rods were a buck each, and no aftermarket supply for the bolts other than wholesale at the dealer.