I’m using all omni stuff. I know it’s ‘affordable’… but not after I pay all my bills each month. I have no option of leaving it in the sun. But I do have 3 windows I can clean, haha. I have been using a 1.5x2x6 block of wood wrapped in sandpaper. It seems to work well. I have a small rubber sheet thing that I used for the spot putty that my buddy let me use.
Should I use the sealer on urethane parts too? I did use some putty on the grill where I shaved the emblem. I am probably going to.
the rubber blocks help some cause they do contour to the panels. some times a paintstick or a yardstick with sand paper works. but for wetsanding a whole car. i would get rubber pad 3m makes them and so does Megauirs
and you have expoxy thats a surfacer primer its used to prevent pretreat the panels. youre going ot have to break down and get some high build. if i had some here i would tell you exactly what you need to get. we only use omni for that kind of work. my stang soon will be done it onmi
Ok, I have the bed pretty smooth and pretty straight. I just can’t tell how wavy it is. Is there an easy way to check? I’ve got a couple various straight edges but without knowing how to use them to tell straightness is useless. Going horizontally I can see the panel is pretty good (at least in 1 ft sections) but vertically where it curves is a lot harder. When I was doing my speaker box I would just spray it with cheap-o primer and could see it alot easier. I don’t want to waste primer and I also don’t want to spray it with cheap primer. Any suggestions??
there is a way to spray cheap paint to see the high and lows but i am not familier with it…i hope a body man chimes in and gives you some tips
yeah, thats what I was doing with the cheap primer. I’d spray it on and swipe the sanding block across it and where ever it didn’t scratch was low.
Better way??
just put a real dry coat of cheap black spray paint on it let it dry real light where u can jstu see the spec of the paint hard to explain but its a guide coat. hold can like 1.5 foot from the panel it fills in scratches and dents so when u block it out u find high / low spots and deep sand scratches
i went and bought a cheap can of primer and sprayed both bed corners. I found 2 spots on each side that i could see were low. I filled them and let my shit dry.
If any professional (or highly skilled) body man wants to come take a look and give me pointers I’ll treat to Jerry’s or somewhere. I would like it to be nice so I don’t have to re-do it down the road. Anyone?
maybe tomorrow night. PM me if you want to meet in the evening
Jeff, I thank you for taking time and showing me so many things. I learned more in 2 hours from you than I have in 3 weeks. My buddy Mike who was here also thanks you.
I’m going shopping tomorrow for some of the various tools, icing, and primer. What was the name of that high build stuff you recommended? I know what the can looks like but I forget the name.
no problem.
Transtar polyester primer should be about $50-$55 a gallon.
I bought the blocking tool and various grit sand paper yesterday. I went over my door handles again with it how Jeff showed me, icing’d it, and smoothed it out from there and :eek3: damn it’s so smooth it’s sexy. I also got a gallon of that primer and will spray it sometime this week when I get time after i clean my gun really well. What size nozzle would be best for this thick primer? The guy at the paint store kinda chuckled when I asked for it and said “oh, the sprayable bondo?” I have either a 1.4 or a 1.7 nozzle, I forget which.
I got my cab primed with the polyester primer and sanded down to 400. I plan on cleaning the surface really well, sealing it, and spraying hopefully this weekend. I have been doing some final tasks on the bed before I paint it and hopefully catch up to the cab before the week’s over.
What is the stuff called that OE cars use to seal seams? Kinda resembles JB weld where it is smeared on and hardens. I have a few things in my bed that I couldnt get the welder to and wanted to make sure it was water tight.
i thought it was just called seam sealer
heh, easy enough then!
if its the same stuff that was smeared in the body seams in my roadrunner … its kinda like liquid nails type stuff
Ok, another question. I sprayed a portion of my bumper cover today that will be red. I also sprayed some small things like my grill and my mirrors, etc. Everything but the bumper cover looked pretty good. When it started to dry it changed color basically. It got real pale. You can see it in the pic. When it was wet it was nice, smooth, and shiny. As it dried it got that way. Any clue why? how to avoid it? fix it?
Also just for the hell of it:
looks like the bumper needs more coats of paint …the primer sucked it up
what kind of paint are you using? base coat/clear coat? and ya i would prob use more paint
and when you get ready to wet sand and buff the paint, go to napa and get a wet or dry sanding sponge. it works great and its only a couple of bucks.
Ok, got some stuff done today:
I got everything sprayed but the clear. I’m worried about sanding the paint itself. On my test peice sanding at 1500 grit left scuff marks and still were there with 2000. Also, I ran out of red paint, so any spot i scuff too much i am screwed. I’ll wait to see it in daylight before I decide if I need to sand it or not. I might go buy the smallest amount of paint so I can touch up along my window and extra ‘in case shit’ paint.
should I sand the basecoat before the clear coat? 1500 minimum I would assume?
How bad would it have to be to be too bad to just clear it? Like I said… I will check itout tomorrow in daylight to make that decision.