Always wipe down the surface with a degreaser between any steps.
You need the primer designed to work with the paint you’re shooting.
Yes. Make sure the metal is pretty rough (80 grit sanded) when you’re doing body filler stuff so it has a lot to stick to.
When spraying anything usually the idea is a light tack coat first, then a coat heavy enough to appear ‘wet’ for a second … so it has a chance to flow into the flaws. I would put 1 tack coat, 2 full coats of primer.
Must sand primer before spraying color (400-600 grit depending on paint system). Flat black? Are you sure you don’t mean gloss black? Clearcoat will not really change the level of glossyness (except by making it a bit smoother - which color sanding can do anyway).
since my question is also body work, i feel i should just ask in this topic, so yea, my car, a 91 accord (i’m working on getting a 240) has some rust problems on the rear fenders right at the bottom so right near the tire/.wheel, my dads friend can get me like replacement lips i guess for just like the bottom part of the fender, so would it just be smarter to get the lips, and cut off the rusted parts, then just weld the new lips on and do all that crap and paint?
or should i do the lazy thing and spend alot more money and get new rear fenders?
What do you value more? Your time or your money? Not up to me! If you went the ‘lip’ route you’d have to make sure it will cover up everything you cut with rust on it. Not sure what a ‘lip’ is on an accord (or even what an accord looks like ) so … you’ll have to make the call
Once again I remind you clearcoat has nothing to do with if the paint will be glossy or not.
And I’m not sure if you want primer as your top coat. Is designed to sand easily, not be a tough outer layer. I don’t even think you could find black primer? Buy ‘flat black’ color paint.
If you’re going the really cheap route, just get Tremclad flat black rust paint. You don’t have to prime or anything. Just rough sand and lay down a few coats.
yea, if you refer to Sport Compact Car’s project car, (which is a 240 with a s13 change, and sr20…) yea they painted it flat black, with just aerosol cans. And clearcoat is just basically a few extra layers of paint to protect the colour or paint underneath right? Its all about the paint, flat black paint just has no glossy material in it so it doesn’t shine like gloss black.
Uhhhh yeah.
Clearcoat is just that.
Flat black != primer.
Acutally I think flat paints have material in them to PREVENT them from being glossy (Since most things become glossy when very smooth).
Like I said if your going the ultra cheap, just covering your car so rust won’t eat it route … try tremclad flat black. And don’t even bother with primer. (Unless you’re shooting over rust. Yikes! Then use Tremclad rust primer).
what do you think of bondo over bondo?
or should i just sand it all out nd redo it.
I’m most partial to full out fiberglass (ie: resin + mat. 3-4 layers). Easy and strong. (Since I don’t have access to a welder). Bondo over bondo … it depends. Is it just body filler? I wouldn’t go very thick with that at all. Any flex it might pop right out. Depends on area of car too. Is it going to be subjected to impacts / strains? Bondo makes fiberglass filler stuff too, a lot stronger and should stick a bit harder.
It’s always a good idea to sand down previous repairs (espically if they have failed!) but the most important thing is to get the area super clean so your new repair will stick.
May I suggest heading to AutoZone (or similar) and picking up Hanes’ Body Repair Manual?
Read it through a couple times and maybe you’ll have a better idea what you want / what needs to be done.
quick question… ive sanded my whole car and wutever and ive sanded some of the rubber off of the window(rubber lining around the window) anywayz i think its ugly is there a way i could some how fill it… damnit i had another question… ill get back here when i think of it
Next time make sure you sand more carefully. Try to polish it up with some shoe polish or something then use rubber treatment stuff (amour-all?). I don’t think there is anyway you can fill it in.
Wrong … It all depends on the paint. Some don’t even include a clear coat. Unless you’ve done it personally or researched don’t post!
Unless you spray the base coat wrong it will not be flat if it is supposed to be gloss. I had a base-coat system only paint on my hatch when I repaired it, and you could never tell the difference between that and clearcoated paint (after I wetsanded and polished it).
actually your wrong, and AWD drift is right, i’ve grown up around a bodyshop all my life and if your using actual automotive paint, the base is always dull and “flat looking” only after you apply the clearcoat the paint will shine and be protected. and that yellowish primer your talking about is called vinyl wash, it’s used to protect bare metal from rusting…always apply this before primer on bare metal or rust will come back to haunt you…fast
Thanks datsunfan!! And to the other guy, just because I’m a noob on THIS forum doesn’t mean I don’t know what I’m talking about!! I have been painting cars for about 12 years now so I think I know what I’m talking about. What your refering to are enamel paints or acrillic enamel (sp) paints that usualy need no clear coat. So I think YOU should do some research befor YOU post!! Jackass
Read up in the thread. The guy wants cheap flat paint. I still maintain the way to do this is BUY FLAT PAINT. I still think ‘gloss black’ paint (even without a clearcoat) will be much too glossy for his needs.
Not sure where yellow primer was meantioned, but you are right. A metal prep is a good idea if you somehow sand down to bare metal.
hopefully someone can take their some time and help me out…
) so … you’ll have to make the call