for the truck dont use newspaper to mask off. trust me on this one
I was gonna wrap most of the frame underneath with aluminum foil. But what should I do instead of newspaper?
go to paint store and get their paper. its kinda green. also they sell large plastic sheeting. newspaper bleeds thru and wil lsometimes leave the ink on the paint
ok, i’m back for more advice and a couple questions I am gonna ask the guy at the paint store when I go around 4…
I have my truck sanded to bare metal/OEM primer now and was going to go to 400 wet before I primer it. I know I should use something like window cleaner to clean it and was going to spray it the same day to prevent rusting. Will epoxy primer work well for the first coat? will I get bleed through? Will i need a sealer primer after that?
Now, it occurred to me also that since i am doing this for cost of materials why not do a little bit of custom work…
so i’m thinking metal flakes… do I need a special gun/nozzle? are flakes a pain in the ass for any reason? Do I just use 1 coat of flakes then regular clear or ??? will large flakes leave bumpbs or jagged edges?
I am also tossing around the idea of using glow-in-the-dark paint to do some sort of design on my tailgate/hood. Is the phosphorescent (spelling?) junk clear? or does it leave a tiny of the color it is? when would I spray it in relation to the metal flakes? Whats the best way to mask off am emblem type design? I was thinking of making a stencil (I can print on plastic sheets at work then cut it out) but I am not sure if the force of the spray will make the edges rise up and fuck it up. Do they make special paper i could cut out my design and stick it on?
Also, I planned on using omni base/clear but I don’t know (and I doubt) if omni makes glow in the dark paint. My local paint store is a HOK retailer and they have glow in the dark stuff for sure… but can I use the glow in the dark stuff with omni clear? or should i use HOK clear coat? If I use their clear, should i use their paint too? I’d like to use all HOK but I’m not a damned millionaire.
anyone with a shop willing to sell me paint/primer/clear/tack cloth at wholesale cost?
I’m sure by now you guys are annoyed with my questions as I know the guy at the paint store will be, haha. Thanks in advance
PPG makes a wax and grease remover use this first wait till it evaporates and use glass cleaner or a dupont final-clean and tack off with tack rag and spray.
Use Omni clear I think MC161 high solids clear and House of Kolor makes that powder to make you car glow and it can be used in any make of clear.
good luck
is that powder clear when its not illuminated or does it leave a tint of color in it?
if you use omni clear make sure and sand it the next day to buff it. that stuff is tough sh#t to sand if it sits too long. Believe it or not I like the Econo Body clear from napa. $65 gallon with activator and goes on better than omni IMO. Real Metalflake is a pain. you put it in the clear and bury it. Easier to use a heavy metallic color. Also be careful with omni base coats. Solid colors work great but start to use metallic colors does not cover too well. What color do you have in mind?
thanks for the tips on sanding… thats good to know as I will have to make time and aquire a buffer at that time. The color will be the origional cherry metallic above the body line and a dark charcoal color to match my wheels (not picked out yet). I found out the glow in the dark junk always has a color to it… so scratch that i had somethine else in mind. I would still like to give it a nice metal flake but the guy at the paint store was showing me that its meant to be put into an intermediate clear (HOK procedure at least) and then bury it in the normal clear. Is this typical or is this tryin to get a few more bucks from me? Also, on the display peices, it said it was sprayed over black and it looked almost entirely the color of the flake… like it totally covered the black… is that how it normally goes? will the flake color over take my base coat?
Another question: DO I need to use sealer primer? If so before or after my epoxy primer? I’ve heard mixed things on this.
my friend just finished his stang, and its a very similar color combo to what you are doing… charcoal on the bottome, and a “rasberry” color on top… It looks fucking sick… His paint came out perfect, he also has pearl ghost flames on the hood and fenders
Is this it? My buddy took some pics of this car at some local car cruise recently. He knows my plans on paint and wanted me to see this.
Ok, another question for you guys: I sprayed the cab with a sealer primer today. I see a lot of small sanding marks and a few small spots I missed. So I will fix those and re-hit it with the sealer primer. Then should I wet sand this or go straight to the epoxy primer? I planned to clean it reguardless with the prep stuff i got but was curious if I should sand it (sealer primer) or spray the next coat and sand that really well?
yes i see the spot I missed
sealer is the final primer. its just a thinned out primer used for adheavison [sp]. you should of used a high build primer then wet sanded it with 400 grit then prepped it then sealed it then painted it.
well I was told to spray the sealer first to seal the bodywork and bare metal. That is what I did. I sanded it with 400wet and its friggin excellent. Most of the sanding marks are history and my run is no longer there either… I cannot afford to buy more sealer primer, so will I be ok just doing epoxy primer next and sanding it smooth the same way?
sealer is the final primer. its not supposed to be wet sanded. you should of sprayed high build first. that is what hides all imperfections. then sealer, it helps to prevent bleed thru. honestly spray some highbuild on it to cover up the low and high spots and block sand it with 400wet. then seal it then spray it.
paint work>joo
damn, there went a quart of primer. At least it won’t rust again tonight.
just high build it all block it out with 400 then maybe 600 if u want to save materials, and as long as u dont break threw the primer anywhere i wouldnt worry about sealing it unless u want to save on basecoat
Thanks Derek. But punctuation would of helped alot there. :blue:
I am just gonna suck it up. I only did the cab and it took 1 quart. I’ll epoxy primer it all and just reseal the cab. The bed is behind schedule because it’s outside and the weather was shitty for a few days. i’m hoping to get that taken care of this week.
BTW, what do you guys mean by blockin it? Just sanding with the use of a block? or is it a different process than just wraping sandpaper around a block of wood?
what brand materials are you using? some stuff is very affordable. But yes you should have used a high build primer. either way leave it sit for a day or two in the sun to let the primer shrink. That way if you do have any sanding marks you will see them and can block them out also.
Blocking out typically I use a heavy rubber sanding block that is somewhat flexible and yet rigid to sanding the vehicle. Whatever you do do not use your bare hands as it will leave finger sanding marks in the paint