Working on finishing up my B18C1 swap into my CRX, I have an innovative Hydro to cable conversion kit, the one with the cable right to the tranny. I been trying to get it to disengage the clutch fulling but it does not seem to have enough travel. Has anyone used this set up? Hoping to go with the cable pulling the master cylinder to the slave over the summer but for now hope this setup will work. If anyone has any good ideas or another setup that will work, for sale let me know. That is the last thing to get done, and them will drive the CRX for the first time in 6 years. Can’t wait!
Thanks guys
Is there an adjustment for the cable on the pedal or the transmission? Might just need to tighten up some slack.
Yeah I have tightened it up on the tranny end, I’ll have to look at the clutch pedal tonight. I know the cable just attaches to the pedal. I feel if I tighten the cable anymore it will not engage fully.
yeah definitely dont overtighten, just take the slack out
haha i finally finished my crx and drove it for the first time in 5 years last year. Totally worth the wait and maby even the tickets!
Ok adjusted the clutch a little more last night, threw the tires on and drove it last night. DAMN it is fast. You were right, well worth the wait. Did not get it up there to engage the vtec yet but can’t wait for that. Still have a lot more work to do before I drive it for the summer. Thanks for the help guys.
good shit :tup:
Well tried driving the car home and the front calipers locked up! Not Fun! Didn’t even make it home, had to go back and pick it up off the side of the road this morning. They were smoking pretty bad last night. I hope i didn’t warp the rotors. But I did find out the VTEC still works and works well. I’ll be out of town for the next week so will not be able to get to it until then:tdown:
VTAKKKKKKK
4500rpm chirping gears :), how did the caliper lock up might i ask, you got any pics of your car?
sorry man been out of town. The calipers were setting for 4 years, like a dumb ass i didn’t rebuild them before putting back on. they will push out but not retract. So as the heated up driving home they just got tighter, until i could not move. Next morning after they cooled had not problem driving back home. Will rebuild them this weekend, clean the car up and take some pics.
why rebuild them just buy them
3.99 compared to 44.00, not hard to rebuild
I’d rebuild too.
Yeah I would be saving $80 or so on both. Money that can be spent on other wanted stuff. Speaking of wants, Has any one used the innovative cross member traction bars? Some one has them for sale.
Ok caliper rebuild did not go as planned, after taking it out on the 219, got pulled over for loud exhaust…First time out!!! Ticket for the inspection, could of got me for alot more, anyway while stopped the brakes were still smoking and the pistons not retracting. Either the rebuild did not go will and should just buy new, or something else is not working right. Would the proportioning valve cause this, got mine from the junk yard, have no clue of the car it came from. Will most likely buy new calipers this weekend and try again.
penny wise dollar foolish
when replacing calipers always remember:
FUCKING JUST BUY NEW
and
buy new rubber brake lines
just cause the caliper smoked doesnt mean it was the caliper, brake line could of been fucked in the ass
also just buy a master, another 50 bux and you’re worry free take 10 min to swap it in
Thanks for the edvice. The rebuild is easy and only $4, I will rebuild unless the cylinder is pitted really bad. I did check all lines and the master cylinder, and found the problem…The brake booster is from the doner GSR and it had ABS, aparrently the plunger that sticks out going into the master was too long. I had to cut it down so that the master will fit on the booster flat with out applying the brakes alittle bit. Did not notice that before, most of been in a hurry. Thanks for the help guys. The brakes are now working correctly.