anoyone have a spare intake air temperature sensor for a b18c. Does not matter if its good or bad, im relocating it on to my charge pipe and need one to plug the stock hole in the intake manifold.
Cut a plate out of metal. I am sure you have a plasma cutter at work
an old sensor is much easier especially if it still has the o ring attatched… and no i dont have a plasma
fill the hole with JB weld, I’ve seen people do that and it works fine. or fill the hole by tig welding it.
unless of course you want to keep it there in case you ever sell the manifold
drill it and tap it to use a pipe plug
even better idea!
fuck drilling it tho, just tap it, that way you could put the IAC back in if needed
you might need to drill it to fit the tap in good, butyea if you dont need to drill it then dont,
why are you moving it anyways, its not going to change anything performance wise for you. so what is the point.
Thanks for the responses but you are not getting the point. I was just seeing if someone had one laying around that was junk. This would obviously be the easiest method.
Stock location of the IAT sensor is efficient for stock setups. but very poor placement for modified (turbo) set ups due to heat soak in the intake manifold. Im relocating it to my charge pipe right befor the throttle body, that way i can see actual intake temps after the intercooler without soak variating the #'s
It’s good that you are thinking like that, but wrong. The throttle body and IM have coolant passages routed through them, so combine that with heat transfer from the head…temps can rise 15-20 degrees BETWEEN the throttle plate and the actual intake valve. Even with phenolic gaskets on the IM, and non-conductive hardware to isolate heat transfer the temp difference is still there. The IM itself is only cooled via air when the car is moving.
The point is, your ECU (under closed loop) reads the IAT signal and adjusts fueling as needed based on incoming temperature as it relates to oxygen density. Moving the IAT out further will tell the ECU a falsely LOW temperature, which equals MORE fuel delivery than is needed. Since you can’t have an IAT too close to the combustion chamber (where the signal would be most accurate, in theory) Honda placed it 1/2 way down the IM runners…or sometimes on the plenum. You WANT that sensor to be reading as close as possible to the actual temp of the air getting into the cylinder, not what it was a step or two previous to it in the intake tract.
Here is Jeff’s outlook on it. Not saying he knows all and you are wrong but how many vehicle have you heard of not performing effeciently that is setup on Jeff’s advice?
http://blog.evans-tuning.com/2009/06/18/et-intake-air-temperature-sensor-billet-relocation-flanges-in-stock/
oh and I am running a skunk2 TB which has no coolant running through it.
I know Jeff has his ducks in a row, but I’d like more enlightenment on that from his point of view… I think Steve is more correct (who knows whats really corret?). I think the closer you can read air temperature to the intake valves, the more efficiently you can use the temperature number to tune. Granted, there is less heat soak further away from the manifold, but your temperature is less accurate. So, if you came up with some sort of calculation to compensate for the off temps, then you can tune it accordingly.
Honda must have used some sort of engineering idea to put the sensor where they did, or else it would have been placed elsewhere. I’ll trust honda before anyone else…first. 
agreed, also what you have to consider honda designed that sensor to be in that location on a 100% stock vehicle that would not see a 1/4 as much heat soak as a modified turbo engine would see.
i cant tell if it makes a difference on a honda or not, but for a turbo v8 its always recommended to always put the iat before the tb to avoid heat soak.
i have one but no oring on it i found it yesterday
um… i’ve logged way cooler intake temps on boosted motors compared to na…
thats just cause your a cool cat :rolleyes: Do you have a sensor for me or what dingle nuts… 
you da man pm me your contact info please
i should have them layin around…
Me too. I agree that Jeff knows what he’s doing, but it seems only to apply on a dyno where the heat soak would be at it’s worst. Once the car is moving, quite a bit of air passes the entire IM area…so heat soak shouldn’t be much of an issue. I could be wrong, but I think Honda had a reason for doing that, even on thier F-1 motors.
I found an IAT as well if you can’t grab one from J or Rogue…it might get lost in your hands though
I would have to pull up my logs from last year to give you the exact degrees with my smaller full-race back door intercooler. But my intake air temps changed durastically from the staging lanes to the shut down area. I typically would have to let the car sit for up to an hour with ice on the intake manifold and wet down the intercooler. So heat soak even while moving was a huge issue for me due to my inefficient intercooler. I have since bought a larger one, but i would have to believe on a turbo’d vehicle you would almost always encounter heat soaking issues at the track. Even now with a 32"x12"x4" intercooler my intake air temps are changeing 18+ degrees on a 1-4 gear pull. Is that a normal amount?
I guess since you spend a long ass time sitting in staging or in the paddock with the motor running…heat soak IS a bigger issue (in your specific case) than I was expecting. Still though, 18 degree on a highway speed pull?