Whats the best intake manafold to get? Is a 68mm to big for a stock motor with a full exhaust and intake?
O yeah its a b18c motor and what power steering pump do I need for my civic power steering lines.
skunk 2 pro series i/m is pretty much a knockoff of an ITR intake mani, i like those.
use a gsr power steering pump, or be a man and yank it out haha
The stock one.
explain?
the best manifold is a chevy 350 intake u can cut it in half and jbweld the cut side shut. bolts right up to all honda motors. who knew.
you can buy the intake at autozone or pepboys.
IMO, if he has an internally stock motor he isn’t going to notice much of a gain from a new IM. I know the Skunk2 IM for a stock H22 was worse for about 3/4 of the curve and then gets you like 2hp on the top end - I’m sure the profile for the B-series stuff is different, but I can’t imagine the GSR IM is that weak. I would say there is no point in putting money into the TB/IM if you are N/A and internally stock. People make a lot of power on the stock GSR TB/IM. I think he’d be better off saving his pennies for some cams.
This is pretty much just my opinion, so if someone knows definitively that there are big gains in the TB/IM for a stock N/A GSR I’d love to hear about it.
This is exactly what I keep bringing up. Adding an IM/TB on an internally stock motor will HURT the power curve with the exception of really high RPM. Every time I say that people get pissed. It’s been proven time and time again, do your research.
and this is true, same as putting on a header, test pipe, or even cat-back exhaust. HOWEVER, my point was that the skunk2 I/M is basically a knockoff of an OEM ITR intake manifold, since the type-r manifold doesn’t bolt up to a gsr head obviously, your best bet for getting around the goofy gsr manifold is the S2.
you won’t see the full potential of cams without a good intake mani/throttle body combo. so really it doesn’t matter where his pennies should go cuz it’s not a one or the other thing. it’s a buy both and do it once thing.
it’s not always about power either, adding bolt on parts to an internally stock N/A honda motor is like trying to fill a swimming pool with a squirt gun. maybe he wants a better looking intake manifold to clean up his engine bay, who knows.
Again, backing up that modifying has to work as a PACKAGE. Piecing shit together gets you nowhere. That point can’t be stressed enough. 
exactly i dont know why people are NOT taking what he has been saying into account
there is lots of stuff to do before you start messing with that
like getting the motor in the car for starters :bigok:
Motor is in the car and runs like a champ. The stock I/M does look like shit in there. I was looking for power incresses and I did know they would be only top end power gains and I would lose some bottom end. I was more curious about the throttle body on how big to get. I was thinking 70mm is to big for a N/A motor and would hurt me more then getting a smaller one. And I was wondering if you got to get a V tec controller for that manafold since the computer is still thinking there is still duel butterflys in the intake?
I think i saw an IM shootout a while back and the Edelbrock made the most out of everything. If someone put a gun to my head, thats what i’d buy. Match it up with their TB if you dont care about money.
Leave vtec alone… what did it ever do to you?
Information:
If you have the correct ECU (P72), stock VTEC engagement for GSR is 4400RPM. The secondary butterflies open at I believe 5700? In my understanding they have nothing to do with each other. A new IM probably calls for moving your VTEC crossover, but not just because of the butterflies - you’ve changed the flow characteristics of the motor, so your power curve is going to change and the previous crossover will almost certainly be non-optimal.
Mostly Personal Opinion:
I support your quest for power but seriously, read about the IM/TB thing and you will find that you are usually pissing money away when it comes to overall performance. People make big power on the stock GSR IM and TB. I know how you feel - I was all about putting a new IM and TB onto my N/A H22, but when it came down to it I had to admit that aside from the looks, it was very nearly pointless.
In any case good luck, let us know how it turns out and if you are gonna swap intake parts, get it on the dyno. :bigthumb:
There’s truth in what the beef speaks.
As far as throttle body size in concerned, assuming you’re dead set on going that route: The Skunk2/AEBS/whatever manifold you buy is going to be either 65 or 66mm opening, so at most you’d need something that is matched to that size. Buy larger and you’ll need to bore the IM and gasket and subsequently lose some power on your current setup…buy smaller and it won’t necessarily hurt you, some would even argue that having a slightly smaller (like .5mm-ish) TB than IM gives you a small anti-reversion effect ala Hytech. I don’t have any personal experience with the latter, but I wouldn’t do it on my motor. Either way, going after market is going to shift your powerband in the direction that is least useful on the street, and that’s no fun.
You know I don’t speak spanish