So I picked up a pretty cheap used fmic the other day and piping. half of it looks home made… but anyways I got it installed, I’ve ran a vacuum hose from the intake manifold area down to the bov (looks to be a greddy type s knock off) which is located under the bumper on the hot side piping. i think this is a pretty stupid location for a bov, but it came off a working red top vert. The hot pipe has a nipple for the wastegate line beside the intake, and I also have an intake without the re circulation inlet so my bov is blowing into atmosphere.
Everything idles fine, I’ve tried adjusting the spring so that its closed at idle on the bov, but it still flutter dumps. I take it around the block and it pulls decent, spools fine and idles fine but it still has the nasty flutter of death.
Now my question is could the location of the bov being so far away be causing the flutter, because the air has to travel far to escape ? or could it be the crappy bov itself ?
If pictures and a video are needed i can upload some ! thanks in advanced
When I drove my car around the block after installing a TiAL BOV, it would not even open, just compressor surge. This is beacuse you can’t build much boost in 1st gear and create pressure behind the valve to help it open. Once I got the car onto a bigger road, I was able to load it up in 2nd, it worked fine. Now keep in mind that the TiAL is more of a race BOV suited for applications 20+ psi and therefore has a much stiffer spring. Unlike a GReddy Type-S or HKS SSQV, which are much more streetable.
The location of the valve on your car is not the issue, in fact, the correct location for a BOV is inbetween the intercooler and throttle body. Regardless of BOV placement, the entire charge pipe and intercooler system is equally pressurized, except for some small pressure drop across the intercooler.
You can try to loosen the adjustment screw on the valve to make it let off easier, but then you must find the balance between the valve opening easily and staying shut at idle/closing quickly when the pressure has been relieved. Otherwise the car will stall easily.
Could just be the fact that it is knock off and functions poorly.
Thanks for the reply, after some long hours of research I’m pretty sure the vaccum lines are incorrect. Although I used the correct line from the stock bov and ran one from waste gate to hot pipe there’s a bunch of loose ends I have to go over and the layout of the vaccum lines…
After some more fiddling I’ve managed to get the bov working, the spring is really loose, and it still sort of flutter dumps but stalls right after because I’m not recirculating it. Can I get away with a tune or just recirculate the bov and put the stock intake on ?