I relocated my battery to the hatch on my car. However, I’m concerned with safety …after I drive the car around haha. Now saying that, I have a cut-off switch I wanted to install but driving around with a knob on the back of the car makes me feel a little stupid. I might mount it on the inside for now.
The main problem I have is I want to install a major fuse or breaker, whatever you want to call it, i’m not too electrical. I have no idea what kind of amps I should search for, Id imagine slightly on the bigger side would not hurt. I just dont like the idea of if my main battery cable shorting out along the body somewhere and turning my battery into a welder or explode or what have you.
So I know someone is smart and wants to fill me in. I want to finalize this so i can solder all my connections up.
Never really ever heard of anyone using a breaker for their battery. Maybe wire it 3-way? a switch in the back and a switch on the center console so if you do see anything wrong you can cut it then and there.
anyone who relocates the battery should have some kinda fuse or breaker installed within 12 inches of the battery… there are too many ways the wire could short out in an accident between the battery and the fuses under the hood…
Ive never heard of somebody NOT fusing the battery (im using “fusing” a little loosly here, if the fuse should pop youd have to buy another, if the braker pops you just have to reset it.)
What if something goes wrong when hes not in the car? that would be one hell of a fire.
I use a 200 amp breaker on each of my batteries. My alternator is 180 amps max so i went slightly higher. I also have a 200 amp relay between batteries so 200 amp breaker seemed right. I’ve never tripped either one and I beat the snot out of my electrical system with all the audio/video goodies and the 2 electric compressors and 2 motor driven ones with electric clutches.
the nice part about using breakers is that if you want to disconnect power for some reason (working or wiring) it’s faster to push the reset button and reconnect… also a quick way to disconnect for storage…
you dont need one per-say but its a good idea. I’ve done the installs with no fuse/breaker, but then again i dont use regular cable or route it just any old way either.
Thanks guys for the excellent responses, Im going to most likley go with a breaker and a nice pull type cutoff setup.
However im having voltage drop probelms. I ran both a positive and negative cable even though I didint have to. I used 2/0 gauge copper wire. i thought it would be big enough? has anyone else had similar problems?
Look I dont care how you route it, or what you route it in. if it gets a split or a screw in it, or a scrap, or the battery just shorts from a screw driver crossing the terminals, the wire will be pulling all the juice it has thru a wire ROUTED from one end of your car to the other. thats a fire hazard.
ya you dont NEED a tourniquet when you cut your arm off but its a DAMN GOOD IDEA!
just because you dont do it, doesnt mean its not needed.
Thanks guys for the excellent responses, Im going to most likley go with a breaker and a nice pull type cutoff setup.
However im having voltage drop probelms. I ran both a positive and negative cable even though I didint have to. I used 2/0 gauge copper wire. i thought it would be big enough? has anyone else had similar problems?
are you grounding your battery at the battery location and grounding the engine back at the origanal battery location?
you draw maybe a result of something little shorting out already, or the alternator??? i dont really know whats going on in your particular case, but if you gave me more information i could probably figure it out.
Really? You should see my old neon, wire shorted from the battery to the amp, no fuse, had the smell of burnt carpet in my car for a month, burnt paint in the door jam near the hinges, and burnt carpet up near door sill, don’t use a fuse/breaker your asking for trouble
Im sorry I take back my voltage drop. This morning the car wouldnt start, jumped it, it started. And then it started after that all day today. i got teh meter out, checked the alternator, its good, Checked the battery too. i got 12.6 volts at the battery and 12.5 at the fuse block and starter cables in the engine bay.
So I’m not really sure.
I have the wires from the battery in the back…through the firewall. the postive goes to the stock postive battery lug and the negative goes to the stock negative lug which is bolted to the firewall/body. And i also installed a second ground wire from the lug to the body at a different location for good measure.
The connections in teh engine bay are soldered and everything. The rear connections to the battery are not soldered yet since im installing a breaker/cutoff setup in the near future.
Well, I’m bringing this post back, since i’m messing with the battery again.
This is what I have now…
The 200amp breaker I have now is just a little car audio one. The lugs on it are 10mm~1/4 inch and thats no good. It already broke on me and its just a low-quality piece. The 200 amp size works fine, I’d imagine I could go a little bigger if need be.
Id like to get a breaker, but a fuse will do, if its a fuse I’d like to go 200-250 amp so it doesnt pop if i have to crank on the starter real good.
So heres the kicker. I cant find one to buy? I went to the links some of you posted and I cant even find a place to buy them from and if they are for sale its not what I want. Ive been looking for days and I cant seem to find a good place to buy them from. I need some help.
