Better flow for the current, more flexible and better for automotive use!
Its easy to understand the flexibility and vibration resistance, but how/why does it flow current better than a solid conductor. I’m not convinced about that.
ide be in for this
thats 4th i believe… thanks DTS
Its easy to understand the flexibility and vibration resistance, but how/why does it flow current better than a solid conductor. I’m not convinced about that.[/quote]
like andrew said the current tends to flow along the outside of the wire, so with stranded you have more surface area then one wire, so you have more current. i might of used the wrong terminology but you get the idea. this is GR 11 physics
It’s a lot more advanced on grade 11 physics …
but it’s not important either.
the condictuvity of the wire will depend 99.99% on material, width, and temperature and 0.01% on stranded vs solid in low voltage DC applications. Since stranded is much more durable in a car enviroment, it should (and will!) be your choice 
Houses have electrical fires when something is installed incorrectly. When installed correctly it is basically impossible for them to start a fire. I’d go into details as I know a bunch about house wiring … but it’s OT and I don’t have the time
Well I got talking with the person selling the relocation kits. He has 1
left which I’m picking up in a few hours.
He won’t be getting any more shippments for another month. :wiggle:
so all in all…How much would this whole things cost.
Battery relocation kit + the wires? A ball park figure would be fine, if the price is right you can count me in.
I have been told that you can get these boxes alone in Wal-mart for like
$10-$15. Even Canadian Tire but last CT I went to said they don’t have it
(either that or the worker there was retarded). You just need the
brackets for battery hold down.
In anycase, apart from this kit, you will need some sort of bracket or
strap to hold this sucker in place in the trunk. As well you will need about
20ft of good wire for the +ve connection.
I am guessing all this can be done for under $75, but I am unsure yet. I
am going to get pricing on the welders cable tomorrow.
Get the box from CT they do have it, its either in automotive or marine
section depending on store…
Install it so that it shares 2 of the bolts with your fuel pump access door,
and just bolt them thru the bottom of the box… attach the handle to the
strut tower bar and you’re good to go…
Well I went and picked up the box. It came with all the hardware.
I went to a CT here and asked a dude for the battery box. Told him
it might be in the marine section and he said they don’t carry it. :shock:
Oh well, no matter.
hey G my dad should have the prices for cable on monday
Well, ok, I got talking with the person I bought the box off of. He said
he can probablly get a shipment of 5 more boxes by Friday.
As for welders cable, he also told me it’s pretty cheap, at like $25 for 20ft
or some sh*t. I’ll be calling a shop tomorrow for quotes.
are you sure its that cheap? from what i hear its pretty expensive stuff. what gauge is that price for?
Well this is what he told me. I won’t know for sure until I get a quote.
Gonad, You haven’t talked to the kit man have you? I should be getting my prices on the welders cable today im hoping…
^ No, I’m talking to his friend (the middleman I suppose).
Welders Depot
199 Advance Blvd., Brampton, ON,
905-792-9353
2GA - $1.25/ft
I think this is sufficient enough for battery use. And $25 for 20ft seems
fair enough. Unless any of you can beat this price by $10 or more, I am
going to get my cable from this place.
Details on the Group Buy:
I will do my best to try to clear up any issues as best I can.
Wire Sizing: Stock wiring was designed to handle a continuous load on the system that a normal stock car would require. It was not designed with any leeway for audio systems or otherwise. Given that… there is actually some leeway to play with. It is unlikely that you will need to run 0 gauge or bigger unless you are trying to make a dB drag car. More often than not 4 gauge will be sufficient and price effective. If you are not worried about price, go big. Can’t hurt the electrical system. Make sure that when you are upgrading the wiring system in your car that you upgrade the entire circuit. For example don’t just upgrade the power wire running to your amp and have a nice big ground wire to where ever you decide to ground it without upgrading the ground wires to the engine block and the alternator too. Also the reason that cars use stranded wires as opposed to solid core is because stranded wires are flexable. They also resist vibration damage better than solid core wires.
“Grounding Kits”: Somebody a couple of posts back mentioned something about duel grounding wires from the same places. This is a bad idea. Two wires from the same place will not be exactly the same. They will not have the same resistance. They will not share the current equally. More importantly, this duel path could cause a voltage differential which could cause ground loops. This could cause induced noise into the electrical system (which is bad). The principal of grounding kits is good though. Reducing the resistance of the paths from the chassis back to the battery and alternator will reduce the possiblity of having system noise being introduced by way of ground loops.