Boats v. school me

I’m considering purchasing a boat this season. I’m still researching cost and total costs associated with the purchase. This is where i need some help.

What should i be looking into - docking fees, fuel (how bad do these things get per/gal/ or is it per hour, extra equipment after buying the boat, how much is insurance (what factors influence the cost)…?

If anyone can provide any help with this I would appreciate it :slight_smile:

edit:

18-22’ ish

looking to do the rec stuff on a lake – wake-boarding/pulling a tube or two.

depends A LOT on what kind of boat your looking into. What size are you looking into? What do you want to do with it? I’ve boated most of my life and know a good amount about boats. I’m also in the market to buy a boat so I’ve been looking a lot lately.

just edited.

18-22’ ?

whatever makes sense is what we will get. I dont think we need a huge boat for our needs…

we will be using it for the basic recreation – pulling tubes/wake boarding tanning.

You can dock for the summer…but I know places like sturgeon point,ect fill up wicked fast.

If you want to tow back and forth, it’s only like 6$ to launch.

My friend has an older boat with a v6 in it. Boats do NOT get good MPG. at all.

A boat is a luxury. If you are looking to pinch any pennies, do not buy a boat, they are very expensive no mAtter what way you look at it.

SOrry I can’t help you more!

Edit:
If you want to wakeboard, you are going to need a good amount of power. also a wakeboard bar.

OK I got you before the edit lol.

Well I’ll start with this. DO NOT BUY A NEW BOAT. They have horrible resale value and you can get killer deals on used boats that are 3-5 years old.

Do you want a open or closed bow? Do you want a speed boat or something thats justs going to get from A to B? There are so many boats available in the feet range but I’d stick with something 20+ feet in length. With lake Erie you will get more usage out of a bigger boat, however a 18 foot boat will be fine but you will need to be careful of weather conditions turning on you.

As for fuel consumption anything with a V-8 will get at most 4 MPG in a smaller boat. A 18 foot boat with a 4.3 mercury Alpha drive will probably get 4.5 MPG at cruising speed. Also note this is with 1 or 2 people in the boat with 1/2 tank of gas.

you can wake board off almost any boat. It is just more challenging to do so. Playing with props and trim tabs can help make the boat stay on plane at lower speeds making it better for wake boarding.

I dont know what sturgeon point is… I’m not living in your area. But I must dock… I dont have a vehicle that can tow anything over 2000lbs.

depending where you live will affect how much it will cost to slip it. I’d say depending on the size of the boat your looking at $600-$1000. Also be prepared to pay 75 cents more a gallon to get gas on the water.

im selling my boat asking 3500$ 21 ft very reliable come chevk it out

details?

Boats can be very expensive especially if you have to dock it and have it put in and taken out. My in-laws pay around $800 to have their boat pulled, winterized, stored and then put back in the water in the spring.
You probably want a v6 for the size you are looking at just because of gas consumption. Tubing and stuff like that sucks up gas like crazy. My boat could set me back $100 a day if I use it for the whole day.
Make sure you get something with common parts like a mercruser outdrive and a common engine. Parts will be a lot cheaper. Boats do break anyone who tells you otherwise is lying.
I would not suggest a jet boat unless you like to fix them a lot and spend $$$ on gas.

This is what I bought this year and I really enjoy it but it is not the most reliable thing. 310 HP on an 18’ boat = big fun on the water.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1221/1279845060_3077144393.jpg?v=0

nice boat I’m looking to get into a 25 outlaw in the spring/early summer if I can find a decent one used at a reasonable price. If not I’m going to wait until the fall or winter and get one when the market is priced more for selling.

http://www.offshoreonlyclassifieds.com/files/20916.jpg

I’ve slipped boats and trailered and I would never go back to keeping one in the water again.

  1. The boat is always a mess
  2. You’re always wondering about it in bad weather.
  3. You think it will be easier because you can just drive to the marina and hop in, but you end up taking a lot of stuff out of the boat for fear of theft.

With mine sitting on the trailer in my garage it’s ready to go on whim, usually stocked with fishing stuff, tubes, wakeboard, snorkling gear etc. Just toss in a cooler, hook it up to the truck, and we’re off. The wife and I have launching and retreiving down to a < 5 minute process each way. We pay for a season pass at Niawanda to avoid the douchebags on jet skis who constantly play in the launch area at the free Isle View launch. I’m sure in your area there are both free and paid launches and sometimes it’s more than worth the money to pay for a season pass somewhere. The people looking to save every penny are the kind you don’t want to be around and they tend to be completely disrespectful and ignorant of any sort of launch etiquette.

In the size you’re looking at you really don’t need much for a tow vehicle. Small to mid sized SUV with 3500-5000 lbs should do it. 18 footer being closer to the 3500, while 22 getting closer to the 5k. If you must store it in the water the costs are usually pretty high and that money could be going toward boat gas. :slight_smile:

As has been said, boats are not good on gas. If you’re doing a lot of cruising and watersports you can burn through a tank in a full day on the water even in the size you’re looking at. I budget my boat gas by not doing the budget billing on my National Fuel bill. My tiny natural gas bill in the summer helps pay for my large gasoline bill for the boat. Plus a lot of times we’ll go out for a day and cruise to a good snorkling spot, spend a lot of time at anchor swimming and hanging out and all that time the engine isn’t running.

Overall costs aren’t bad. I do my own winterizing each year so that saves $300 or so. It’s not difficult, just a little time consuming. Do a search and I know I listed all the steps on some post. Maintenance is pretty much like a car except you can’t remove the plug to drain the oil since it would just go straight into the bilge. Pick up a $50 oil extractor to suck the oil out the dipstick along with a $10 set of muffs so you can run the boat in the driveway using a garden hose for the raw water cooling. Other than that you’ve got the lower unit fluid to change once a season (do it in the fall to make sure there’s no water in there that could freeze and crack something), plugs, and the raw water impeller. Unlike the closed system in cars boats are sucking water out of the lake/river so they tend to chew up impellers. For $30 or so and about 20 minutes to change it I wouldn’t let one go more than 2 years. Cheap insurance since you can’t exactly get out and walk if you break down.

Figure 100-200 to set yourself up with everything to be legal if the boat you buy doesn’t come with a coast guard package. Life jackets for anyone on board, flares, horn, throwable floatation device, manual bailing device (aka, a bucket), bilge rags for any oil spills, fire extinguisher, waterproof flashlight and probably some other things I’m forgetting because the checklist is in the boat buried under some ice next to the house.

Buy as much motor as you can afford. I have never met a boater who said “I wish I had a little less power”, but I’ve met a ton that say, “I wish I had a little more”. It really won’t make that big a difference on fuel because you’re going to be working a smaller motor that much harder to get the boat on plane, especially with a load. 18 footer a 4.3 will be fine, 20 I’d start thinking 5.0 as the minimum. In boats this size you won’t spend much time going WOT anyway because the waves from other boats will be sending you airborne at that speed. Where it’s nice is when you’ve got 6 people in the boat and you’re trying to drag 200+ pounds of person out of the water on skis or a wakeboard.

I’d stay away from jets drives unless you REALLY want to spend some money on gas. Sure, it’s fun tearing around like a big jet ski but they are horribily inefficient when compared to an outboard, sterndrive, inboard or v-drive.

Once you get one, pick up a subscription to trailer boats or some other boating mag to help you pass the time in the off season. When I got done clearing the driveway today I went over on the side of the house where I store the boat and just stood there longing for summer to come.

IMO, the best quality and the best resale would be sea-ray. But seeing that resale is better you will pay more. Crownline (i think its called) is also a very good name from what i gathered from researching while my parents were looking.

also when buying used make sure to keep clear of boats that have been run in saltwater. Saltwater tends to wear motors and lower units a lot faster then freshwater. If your going to use it in saltwater I guess it really doesn’t matter.

Also note if you want to do any modifications to your boat to careful of which drive you get. The Mercury Alpha drive is only good up to 300 HP or so. If you want to add any power adders I’d suggest getting a boat with the Bravo drive.

sea ray, crown line, and cobalt all have good resale for a boat but overall they still have bad resale value.

There’s so much to look at if you’re buying used. If you were local I’d offer to help you look at any potental buys but I’m not driving all the way to Vermont.

A few things.

  1. Condition of the floor/subfloor. So many assholes have no clue how to properly store a boat and they end up with water sitting in the boat. A rotted floor is a bad, rotten sub floors and stringers are even worse. Open up every compartment you can can put some weight on the floor. If you find sponginess be afraid.
  2. The transom. Lots of bad things can happen at the back of the boat. Over powered outboard boats with cracked transoms, cracks in the gelcoat that have allowed water to get in, outboard guys who store railer the boat with the motor tilted all the way up putting lots of stress on the transom. Gotta make sure that’s in good shape.
  3. Outdrive\outboard. Look for obvious signs of bottom strike. Bent or missing skegs (the trapazoid shape at the very bottom of the drive), really fresh paint etc. Everyone eventually runs in 2 feet of water when they needed 2.1. What you want to be sure is that if there was damage it was properly repaired. Bent prop shafts, busted gears, cracked lower unit cases etc etc.
  4. The little things. Drive bellows, what kind of shape are they in. Mold anywhere? Upholstery faded, ripped? Lights in working order? How’s the wiring look when you peak in under the dash and under the gunwall.
  5. How was it winterized. If they say, “I had the marina do it”, ask specifics. What marina, what did they charge? If they stumble chances are they’re full of shit. If they say they did it ask what was involved. If someone asked me I could show them step by step what I do because I do it every fall. Nothing will turn a boat from a fun relaxing escape into a money pit like improper winterization.

As for brands, in that size you’re looking at an entry level boat so the playing field is pretty level. Searay is living on their name when it comes to entry level boats. Don’t get me wrong, get into the 25+ foot range and they make some beautiful boats, but I wouldn’t be so brand concerned at 18 foot. Hit up a few dealers and price out their 18 footers new. You’ll see there isn’t a whole lot of difference from one place to the next, but some are built a little better than others. When I was looking back in 99 I ended up with a Chaparral 180 after a lot of research. Her she is after installing a bimini top to keep my little girl out of the sun last summer. Notice the condition… looks brand new because it’s always been stored out of the water.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/537608938_2749ea70b4.jpg

Very good advice! My house is on the water and I have my own dock. However, I do not leave my boat in when I am not using it. Even when I leave in for the weekend it still gets quite messy. I do the same with my ski as well. It looked new for years until I decided to leave it in for one season. It looked like crap at the end of the season and it still has stains on it the will never come off.
Good point on the basic stuff as well. Flares, PFDs and other required cap gets quite expensive.

Rousch97, that is the boat I eventually want in a few years. The yamaha is just to tide me over until I can swing it.

Stay away from bayliner boats. They are not well made and resale sucks. It is like the KIA of the boating world.

If you think cars are an expensive hobby don’t even bother with boats. That’s my first and foremost suggestion. I know in the Finger Lakes area its like $2000-2500 a year for a slip, not sure about Jersey or Vermont where ever you live.

Also as others have mentioned maintence is expensive if you don’t do it yourself, and marine gas is absurd especially if your boat has a 75gal tank (don’t ask how I know lol).

But anyway that Baja outlaw is sick. I love offshore boats, hopefully their will be one in my future sometime.

everyone here is saying buy used, but if i buy new ill get a 3 year warranty on the parts/labor and no headaches. also, when i dock where i live it will cost me 2000 a season :frowning:

My brother in law bought a new 21 foot sea ray for 30K. My father in law bought a mint used 24 foot sea ray for 11k. The depreciation off a new boat is ridiculous.

yea the outlaw 25 is great for the lake, has the 496 HO which should give it a 70ish mph top speed. I want one really bad this summer but if I don’t find one I want I’ll have to wait to for the winter.

you’ll have a warranty but no way of getting it out of the water to get it fixed though. That 25 foot outlaw i posted earlier up was probably like 75k new and 4 years later he is asking 40k for it.