well, im looking into some new ideas for my setup, and i was going to replace the BOV, and upon looking at some i like…some of them have a specific PSI related to them…is that the PSI that they open at? im curious if this PSI number is critical in which one to buy. for reference i am currently at 10psi, and will be at 15-17psi mid summer. currently using stock 1g uncrushed BOV
from my understanding yes that is the amount of vaccume it takes to activate your bov, for example my SHO doesn’t make a lot of vaccume so i have to use a light spring
If by 1G BOV you mean Mitsubishi DSM 1G, then that will be more than adequate to handle 15-17psi.
the psi rating on the BOV is usually the max psi it will hold…like usually a turbo xs rfl is rated to 36.6 psi…thats max rating…and on these bovs you use washers(shims) to get it to open and close under a certain amount of boost…greddy type s is adjustable through a spring and bolt combo located on the top of the actually unit(tighten it for more boost holding) loosen it for it to open with less boost applied…these area few examples…but like rick said a 1g is fine for your boost levels but i would do the crush mod to it just in case…
It depends on the manufacturer you are looking at.
Ex. Tial rates their springs that are in the BOV with 7,9,11 etc. These different rate springs are capable of holding differents amount of boost but there is a trade off as they open slower and if you have too high of a rated spring you will not open fast enough on low boost, low throttle events and this can cause compressor surge.
Others rate them at what the BOV can handle
In my experiences with BOVs. I have found that the Mitsubishi BOV found on 1G DSMs have proved to be the best for moderate boost level (17-19) psi street cars. There are ways to modify them to improve their already robust qualities, some better than others however if this is the range you are performing in then this is the BOV for you.
If you feel you need more then I would suggest stepping up to a Tial, but dont think that just because it is a Tial that it is better, alot of people get wrapped up in the hype that salesman can put them through when most of the time that salesman doesn’t even know how the thing operates and will sell you the wrong part for your application. If you are running higher boost (21psi +) then i would suggest this route but you need to find a spring that will match your driving style and your turbo setup had better be matched to other components on the car otherwise you will find that compressor surge is a bitch.
Tial designs their products with the racer in mind. The guy who has totally built the car and has done the proper math to put together a total package for their engine. Tial IMO is not much of a street product unless you take the time to asses your situation and figure out just which spring is good for you, oh and you dont need to recirculate ;).
Hope this information helps. If you need to find a BOV or need help in selecting one feel free to stop in and we can walk you through it.
Don
wow don great info i really appreciate it. i WAS looking at tial to be honest and thats what sprouted this question. i currently DO have to recirculate, beleive me i tried without and the car stalls out. the MAF is in suck-through mode and without the recirc it gets a momentary rich condition when the already-metered-air is vented to atmosphere in whats intended to be a closed loop system as im sure you know. without it recurculating, i stall, but with it i get slight stumbling at a certain RPM, so i think its also causing turbulence in my MAF so theres a trade off either way, so i am converting to blow through and was thinking about a different BOV, but i think ill stick with the 1g as you guys seem to prefer. thanx for all the input
1g sounds pretty decent vented