Brake fluid questions??

Does synthetic brake fluid eat thru paint like regular brake fluid does?

What advantages to use synthetic brake fluid?

TIA

yes,dont get as hot!

yes, it DOES eat thru paint?

Brake Fluid is rated by wet and dry boiling point. In general, things peddled as synthetic should have higher boiling points but I didn’t know that the cheap stuff was “natural”. Sounds like marketing more than tech to me. The most common “grades” of brake fluid are DOT3 and DOT4. DOT3 is the minimum, cheap stuff but is fine for most applications. DOT4 has a higher boiling point and much of the off-the-shelf fluid sold as “synthetic” is DOT4. There is a silicon-based higher temperature fluid (it’s either labeled DOT5 or DOT5.1) and it is not compatible with pretty much all braking systems other than custom-made race systems - DON’T USE THIS!

On my road race car, I use this:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/srf1.htm
But at $70/liter, it’s only worth it if you are seeing very high brake temperatures.
There is some good tech at the link discussing brake fluid.

I run Valvoline SynPower in my tow vehicle. It’s cheap, it’s easy to find and it’s DOT4.

Unless you are running a road course or your brake fluid is old (i.e. black as night), DOT3 is fine.

All of this stuff ruins paint.

ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid!!!

correct

Thanks for the help guys :blue:

I have a Power Bleeder and if you want to come by and borrow it to change your fluid, contact me to set up a time to come get it. It saves alot of time and effort.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

I have the setup for both GM and Universal as decribed at the link.

Well thats aweful nice of you. I just may do that.

Well, just let me know. I only use it a couple of times a year so it’s doing me no good sitting between uses - just get it back to me since I take this to my races, “just in case”. Give me a “heads up” when you’re ready because it’s in my trailer and I don’t keep my trailer at my house - I will need to go get it.

It wouldn’t be for awhile anyway. I’m hard pressed to find the time to work on my car.

I had brake fluid leak on my firewall. Ate the paint off. Thats why I am asking. I am going to paint the firewall before I install the new engine. Starting prep work today.

Could I spray something on the firewall in that area to prevent the same thing happening again? Just a thought. I was thinking some undercoating in a spray can or something like that.

not really,brake fluid>paint

I am not aware of coatings that are immune to brake fluid. My best-guess would be that POR-15 might be able to take it but that is just a guess.

industrial line of paint.(Imron) Durable as hell and very reasonable. I have some Satin black left as you have to buy this stuff in gallons. Let me know if interested. If going to POR 15 route there is a knock off company that sells stuff just as good as that for $80/gallon

Yes I’m interested if it is impervious to brake fluid. I’m cleaning this mess up now. I just want to brush paint in this area.
How much do you want for what you have left?

There is a silicon-based higher temperature fluid (it’s either labeled DOT5 or DOT5.1) and it is not compatible with pretty much all braking systems other than custom-made race systems - DON’T USE THIS!

Why not use DOT 5 ? What is the actual reason? I found a brake fluid chart and this is the only one that does not eat paint. 5.1 does eat paint.

I have Strange drag racing brakes front and rear with a manual master cylinder.

Just wondering and thanks for the info. :burnout:

I can’t remember the specific details but the DOT 5 (or the 5.1 - it’s one or the other) is silicon-based and it not compatable with materials used in typical braking systems. This particular fluid is intended for customized braking systems for race cars.

A quick google search netted me this:
http://www.api-assembled.com/electric/tech/brakes/index.htm

If you scroll down to the section talking about DOT5, it mentions that the silicone in the DOT5 will break down the materials typically used in caliper boots (and the brake hoses if you haven’t gone to stainless steel).

I also found a procedure for converting to DOT5:
http://www.type2.com/library/brakes/dot5.htm
But this IS the Internet and you need to be careful.

I went through a couple of months worth of brake fluid analysis back in 2003 when I started road racing and concluded that a good DOT4 was the way to go. Part of the reason for this is that the DOT5 is hard to find, expensive and shouldn’t be mixed with the DOT4. If I were running DOT5 at a race weekend and blew out a brake line, if I didn’t have enough DOT5, I’d be hosed if I couldn’t find it.

If you really want to go to DOT5, you might want to research this a little bit more.

Thanks for the info KeithO, I appriciate it.

Thanks for the info KeithO, I appriciate it. I just read all that. Very informative. Looks like DOT3 is for me.
thanks again.