We’ve vice gripped, pipe-wrenched, and screwed the shit outta that bleeder screw, it’s fused to the caliper at this point. I’m grabbing new rear calipers with decent bleeder screws and givin it one more shot before I have my mechanic look at it.
i tolllddddd you soooo mannnyyyy times man. if the screw is stripped bleed from the line. it works just fine. not the same but close to it. in a perfect world you should get new calipers and screws ect… but dude if you wana drive your car this is what you have to do. bench bleed the MC the RIGHT way (search “bench bleeding brakes” on google if you dont know it.) with the right bench bleeding lines or it will make it worce. after thats done then bleed the brakes out from closest to ferthest or vice versa. its important but it wont not work if you doe it in the wrong order. just make sure you gravity bleed everything first then pressure bleed. do this all at once in about an hour. iv had the same problem you had about 6 times. first when i did the brake lines then when i did the caliper then again when i did the other brake line… ect… iv always blead from my line and my pedal is hard as shhhiiitttt. TRUST ME. it was like 3 weeks ago when i tryed doing it by myself till like 3 am (about 14 hours or more) and nothing worked. i did everything. different calipers and different masters… what it took was another man and some good ol pressure bleeding.
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We bench bled the other MC and put it in today, it’s better, there’s reasonable pressure when the car is off, but as soon as it’s started, the pressure goes to nil. There’s minimal brakes, but it’s maybe 25% after pumping it several times.
We’re swapping the brake booster tomorrow, since that’s the only thing we can think of that changes after the car is started… The brakes were bled, in proper sequence, and proper method, the MC was bench bled properly before installing… So all that’s left as a variable is the booster. And I think we’re putting new rear calipers on tomorrow too, but that’s besides the point…
Well Shawn, get your lazy ass over there tomorrow and give us a hand, since you seem to have a handle on it.
Ya shawn. DO IT, like you said you would!
I have the new rear driver’s side caliper now so bleeding is not an issue!
i said id help not do it for you. ill be over after work to make fun of you guys make sure ur there
Still causing many issues, not even close to fully driveable.
Pass side line didnt seem to bleed as quickly as the other lines, so fastback240 and DJPyro came to the conclusion that there must be something in the line. Rubber line was check and replaced aswell as the union between the hard and rubber line. Nothing.
Next assumption must be the BMC piston is not reaching all the way or something is blocking the last hole on it since this is the line leading to the pass side front.
During a test run, the car dived to that side, telling us the problem must be something on that side. By process of elimination, we’ve decided it must be the BMC.
Does this make sence? Also, will an S14 BMC work on an S13 non abs?
half that made no sence and sounded retarted but thats the just of it for sure. 2 gold stars dan.
So after trying everything conceivable, bleeding about 6L of brake fluid through it, changing 3 MBCs and 3 calipers, and talking with everyone we saw about it, we think it’s probably a vacuum leak… It’s the only thing that would explain the feel/symptoms. We’re gonna check it as soon as we can.
use my vacume gauge…
and whats a MBC? your starting to sound like dan… hes not rubbing off on you is he?? im afraid…
Last I checked it was a master brake cylinder. But when you’re tired, and lazy, MBC is about 19 characters shorter.
i bet you guys it’s not a vacuum leak
when i did the stop test with the motor off the pedal still felt soft
i bet theres still air trapped in the system
I dunno about that man, The pedal was rock solid with the car off when we were checking it at Kennedy Commons. And it feels ok driving… I’d be amazed if there’s still air in there. We’ll check for vac leaks, and if it’s 100% fine, I suppose it’s back to bleeding.
well if there was a vacuum leak youd notice it in the way the motor idles and runs
the idle does dip when you press the brakes, moreso than it really should, and it’s running a bit rough.
At this point, I think we’ve tried every conceivable option… Everyone’s come over thinking they had the solution, and it still hasn’t worked lol… So I suppose there’s no harm in checking for vac leaks… Like I said, if it doesn’t work we can just keep bleeding…
yep, agreed
I like a happy ending. <3
I’d also be amazed if there is somehow air still trapped anywhere in there… it’s just unconcievable. We’ve probably spent about 10 hours in BLEEDING alone in the past week.
Vacuum is the only thing left to check. We even did a booster check and it came up nil, so the booster is ok.
i dont think its a vacuum leak either
Are the lines going to the master tight to begin with? It could be a small leak… i.e not tightened properly.
All are tight.