However, that being said, I won’t have the navi right away cause it’s pricey. So I’ll be installing the amp, sub, speakers, and wiring first (I can’t take this stock sound anymore).
The last time I installed an amp, I didn’t use RCA’s. I used speaker inputs. I cut the wire in the door, ran it to the amp, and then ran it back to the speaker. Is this correct? Or do I just run it once and splice into the wires going to the speakers?
If I was to wait until I had the navi, I’d obviously run RCA’s from the navi to the amp and then speaker wires to each speaker. Would I splice into the speaker wires at that point, or cut them and connect them to speaker?
If either way I have to cut the speaker wires close to the speaker, I might as well just temporarily wire the amp in by running wires twice so I don’t have to wait until my navi comes to have my amp. If splicing them is how they work with RCA’s, then either I’ll have to wait or get a line out converter.
Speaking of which, how do those work (wiring)?
I can do this, I’m just not sure how exactly the wiring should be run (I know power should be on one side of the car, etc.) because my last install wasn’t exactly the smartest most likely.
speaker level inputs are garbage in my experience. i actually have 2-3 sets of monster cable rca’s here… gimme 40$ and they are yours. (originally $90 per set) rcas dont drop anywhere near the voltage or clarity that line level inputs do…in order to run the amp, you’ll need to run a remote turn on wire from the back of the deck anyways. run the rca’s at the same time… run the rca’s to the amp then speaker wire from the amp and tap it BACK into the speaker wiring in the doors and it’ll be a seamless install with MUCH better quality sound, assuming you’re setting up your stages correctly with quality components.
That’s what I meant. I won’t be using RCA’s until I get my Kenwood head unit (my factory unit doesn’t have pre-outs). Since it’s expensive, it might take some time to attain.
So if I wanted to install the amp with the stock head unit I would need to cut the current speaker wire, wire the end that’s coming from the door to the amp and then run it back again the same way and wire it to the speaker end. Right?
If I wanted to install the amp with the kenwood (with pre-outs), I would run 4 RCA’s from the head unit to the amp, and then run speaker wire to each speaker. Would I still cut the wire near the speaker? or would I SPLICE into the wiring?
That’s what I want to know. If I am cutting the wire (not splicing), I’ll install the amp for now using speaker inputs. If splicing is what is done when using RCA’s, then I’ll leave it as is.
I say hold off until you can afford the receiver, that way you don’t have to run wires twice. There is also a type of cable that is really 4 sets of speaker wires wrapped up in a single cable. When you run your wires you run that stuff from your amp to your stock wiring harness. That way you don’t have to run anything thru the doors or anywhere else, just that cable, the RCAs, the remote, and power down the length of your car. I forget what the stuff is called (Speed wire maybe?) but I know Audio Obsessions in colonie sells it.
Gotcha. So splice into the speaker wires behind the receiver either way. I was always going through the doors.
Okay…so I run the two red 4ga wires on the left side of the car, the RCA’s and turn on wires down the middle. That will give me no noise interference right?
I’ll just install the speakers (since I won’t have to take the panels off again to do wiring since I’ll be wiring behind the receiver). Hopefully that’ll keep me going until I can get everything else installed.
most new style rca’s are good enough that you wont get that alternator whine or interference. you can run all the wires together if you get a true quality set of rca’s. dont even hook up the amp until you can run the rca’s properly as was previously mentioned. also… why would you need to run two 4ga. wires?.. run 4 gauge or 0/1 gauge to a distribution block and split it there. SOOO much cheaper and cleaner. depending on the wattage and amperage you may want to look into a 1-3 farad capacitor for the sub amp only. run the power wire (fuse inline) from battery to the distro block, split it into 2 4gauge wires, 1 going to the interior amp the other going into the capacitor, then from the capacitor to the sub amp… helps with voltage drop…i was running 3 amps putting out over 2000 watts at one point with around a 140 amp draw on my stock electrical system and if i wasnt driving or revving the car and i had the music turned up the car would actually shut off on me from the bass. if you want help id be glad to lend a hand. (assuming you have someplace semi-warm to do this)… stereo shit in the cold like this is KILLER on ur fingers.
Okay, I will be adding a capacitor to the system (1.2 Farad cause it has a blue theme which works with my amp).
Here is my updated plan:
– Install speakers and tweeters into their spots and use stock wiring (Crutchfield plug and play harnesses for easy installation)
– Wait until I can purchase my head unit, capacitor, and powered sub before installing the other amp (I already have the amp and the wiring kit for it is on the way - wiring for the sub/amp combo is already in place as I used to have that same one before it died).
– When I get my remaining pieces, I will run 6 RCA’s (Front output, Rear output, and Subwoofer output) to their locations on the powered sub and amplifier.
– I will run four sets of speaker wires to each of the speakers, splicing them in at the harness near the radio (instead of running them through the doors, etc.). They will be ran down the middle of the car. The power will be on the left side of the car.
– Use existing power cable that is running from the battery to the trunk and attach that to the capacitor. Then attach the ground that the sub/amp was previous using to the capacitor. Then use the 4ga power wire from the amp kit that is still enroute, cut it, and attach one wire each (powered sub/amplifier) to the power terminal of the capacitor.
Done.
Good?
Only question I have is at the speaker wires. Do I CUT those completely at the harness? Or do I splice into it? I imagine I cut them.
I didnt read the whole thing but if your car has a bose system from the factory, you can’t hook up a line output converter to the wires behind the deck. The wires coming out of a factory bose nissan system is already low-level. Each speaker is amplified individally, forcing you to get the signal off the speaker directly, you will have to remove the speakers from their amp/speaker housings to get to them.
If you do infact have a Bose system, I would advise bypassing all of the factory amplifiers in the vehicle when you do install the deck, for both sound quality and to prevent issues down the road.
If you dont have a bose system, you can attach the line output converter to the rear speaker wires coming out of your factory head unit. I strongly suggest that you have it professionally done to ensure that the converter is hooked up to the correct wires and it connected in phase. No offense intended, but if you need to ask questions about a fairly simple installtion like this, you probably shouldn’t be doing it on your own.
Have you taken your stereo out before? If not, be extremely carfeul removing the upper panel that contains your heating vents, the like to blow apart and fall into a million pieces.
Yeah…I can strip the interior and majority of the crap in the engine bay in minutes. One thing I know is how to take apart a 4th gen. Maxima. lol.
I’ve just never used caps, multiple amps, etc. That’s why I wanna make sure I have all of my bases covered. Up until now it was stereo, 4 speakers, and maybe a single amp or powered sub. I’m getting a little more ‘crazy’ this time. I want to do it once, and do it right. You know?
FYI, caps are a huge waste of money. Buy a good battery and replace the wiring from your alternator to your battery with a piece of 0 gauge. Caps do nothing but hold voltage spikes for less than a second. Doing that will be 500% more effective than buying a cap.
Well I’m getting a Red Top eventually…but I was getting a cap more for the fact that I wouldn’t have to run two full power cables all the way to the battery as was mentioned above.
Now I’m confused. lol. Should I or shouldn’t I? I really would love to avoid running that wire, even if it costs me $65. The tunnels near the doors for wiring wouldn’t hold another 4ga or less wire very well. They are full as it is.
