Ok well im buying a system soon and im pretty sure I will need a cap. Im going to run 2 audiobahn aw1206t subs and a soundstream PCA2000D amp. Im wiring them to 1ohm so 1000watts a piece. What cap do u suggest? Thanks Here are the specs:
Source voltage 11 - 16 volts DC
1-ohm stability
RMS @ 4 Ohms 1100x1
RMS @ 2 Ohms 1500x1
RMS @ 1 Ohm 2000x1
T.H.D.: 0.5%
FREQ. RESPONSE (Hz): 5 - 250Hz
SIGNAL TO NOISE RATIO: >80dB
DAMPING FACTOR: >200
INPUT SENSITVITY: 0.5-4.0V
CROSSOVER SLOPES: 24dB
INPUT SENSITVITY: 200mV
CROSSOVER FREQUENCIES: High-Pass (Hz) N/A
LOW PASS (Hz) 55-220
SUBWOOFER EQ: N/A
SUBWOFFER EQ (HZ): 30-150
DIMENSIONS (INCHES): 9.5x2.5x18.0
What car are you putting this in and what else is going into his system?? …specifically power suppply wise
[quote=“Violator,post:3,topic:24472"”]
What car are you putting this in and what else is going into his system?? …specifically power suppply wise
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I plan on putting this in my 240sx fastback. What do u mean by power supply? Like gauge wiring? Im going to use 4 gauge and a pioneer P9800BT headunit. What do u recommend?
Memphis recommends a 1 Farad cap per 750rms watts of amplifier power. 1f per 1000w is ok.
http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/LiveImages/114/44/DocumentURL.pdf
I would recommend running 2ga wire. You wont be able to turn this up unless the car is running… I believe the stock alternator is a 80amp unit. To run this system you need at least a 160amp one.
Understand that your battery does not power your system. Your alternator does. If lights dim when the bass hits that means the alternator cannot supply the power demand of the amp and electrical system combined.
You need to get a custom alternator to run this system. Thats not a suggestion but a fact. If you do this without then not only will your lights dim but the ignition will drop out and the car will run like shit when you have the beats cranked up.
This will most likely fry the existing alternator as well.
[quote=“Violator,post:5,topic:24472"”]
Memphis recommends a 1 Farad cap per 750rms watts of amplifier power. 1f per 1000w is ok.
http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/LiveImages/114/44/DocumentURL.pdf
I would recommend running 2ga wire. You wont be able to turn this up unless the car is running… I believe the stock alternator is a 80amp unit. To run this system you need at least a 160amp one.
Understand that your battery does not power your system. Your alternator does. If lights dim when the bass hits that means the alternator cannot supply the power demand of the amp and electrical system combined.
You need to get a custom alternator to run this system. Thats not a suggestion but a fact. If you do this without then not only will your lights dim but the ignition will drop out and the car will run like shit when you have the beats cranked up.
This will most likely fry the existing alternator as well.
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So where can i get a new alternator? You think Autozone will sell one for a sr20 with that ampage? Ur helpin me out alot. Thanks
Contact these guys and see what the say about rewinding yours.
http://www.smithae.com/cando.html
http://texasindustrialelectric.com/home.asp
http://www.alternatorparts.com/
Tell them you have a KA or Quest alternator that you want rewound to output at least 160 amps. Get photos off ebay and email front and back views of the alternator so these guys have a better idea of whats up.
If you absolutely have no options then this is a last resort:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=131961
The thing is i havea sr20det not a ka. will it work the same?
[quote=“onefst240,post:8,topic:24472"”]
The thing is i havea sr20det not a ka. will it work the same?
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i dont know. Is the alternator the same? Tell them you have a SR
[quote=“Violator,post:9,topic:24472"”]
i dont know. Is the alternator the same? Tell them you have a SR
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I just was reading the nico post and they said ka and sr can be interchangable.
Ok i can use a 125amp one from a 99 and up quest. Same installation procedure as the 110amp. Im gunna install one before the motor swap so its easier to do.
DO NOT REWIND AN ALTERNATOR!
I have a pair of Voodoo 1-farad caps that I’m looking to part with, they were installed in my firebird and supported a 1600Wrms audiobahn amp very well. Throw me an offer.
Not “or.” If he really plans on powering a 2000 watt system he’s going to need a custom alternator.
Why are you building such a big system anyways? You’re swapping in a DET, but then weighing it down with all that equipment? Are you trying to build something competitive in SPL competitions?
[quote=“BikerFry,post:15,topic:24472"”]
Not “or.” If he really plans on powering a 2000 watt system he’s going to need a custom alternator.
Why are you building such a big system anyways? You’re swapping in a DET, but then weighing it down with all that equipment? Are you trying to build something competitive in SPL competitions?
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I always have been into sound so i want something to pound in my car sinces its my first. No competition at all i just want it for my liking. Im just looking at this system right now. I might change my mind and get the amp and one sub instead.
I would look into another amp if your only going to go with 1 sub. Unless u plan to upgrade to a 2nd sub down the line. I second the fact that caps suck. I have run 4kw in my car on stock alt with a second battery in the back. it all depends how good your stock electrical system is.