Alright so i have 2 10inch subwoofers in a box and a amp in my trunk
everytime i turn the volumne up to about 15 (it goes to 30)
and the Bass to 5 (it goes to 15)
whenever the bass hits the lights dim
would a capicator take care of this problem
and also if im driving for a while say a hour or more and the volumne is on 15 and bass on 5 with songs with heavy bass after alittle bit the amp will shut off
i understand it has a temp cut off, but what would cause my amp to get so hot when turned up.
yeah a cap will fix it. depending on what size amp u have, u will either need a 1/2 farrad or 1 farrad cap. we have them at Stereo Advantage where i work. They are like $70 for the 1/2 farrad and $100 for the 1 farrad. these are Monster Cable ones, so they are the best. they are also very easy to put in.
as far as the amp shutting off, it sounds like it is not adjusted proporly, so i wouls say bring it in to Stereo Advantage and we can tune it for you. it would prob be about $40-$50 for us to install the cap and tune the amp for you. if tuning the amp isnt the problem, then you have the wrong amp for your subs.
My guess with it shutting off is that you have the gains set improperly, and the bass-boost on the HU set too high; you’re pushing your amp too hard because you want it louder; and the amp is at it’s limits, and protecting itself.
As for the lights diming, a cap can help and I do suggest doing the Big-3 modification as well. AKA replacing the 3 main power cables with large gauge wire; Positive to Alternator, Battery to Ground, and the Main power cable to the car. These can help as well, and I defenetly recommend it.
What exact make/model amp is it?
What exact make/model are the subs?
What gauge wire did you run from the battery to the amp?
What gauge wire did you run from the amp to ground?
Where/how did you ground the amp?
[font=Verdana][size=2]maybe you could start by telling us the exact make/model of subwoofers, and their impedance rating. follow that up with the ‘class’ (A, B, D, etc, or a combination) and exact make/model of the amplifier and it’s impedance stability rating.
if you’ve got a class A-B amp that’s only capable of running at 4 ohm mono (2 ohm stereo) load and you have 2 4 ohm subs wired in parallel (a 2 ohm mono load) you can expect that amp will heat up pretty quickly.
incase you haven’t already figured it out… you may have to have at least some small understanding of physics in order to correctly build/wire your audio system.
about the dimming, a cap may help to some degree. if you’d like to avoid replacing alternator once a year ( been there :roll: …with my old dumbestic) i suggest you upgrade your alternator by at least the ampere rating of the fuse mounted on the amplifier…
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sounds like wiring… if u bridge it then seperate them to each wire it will over heat… make sure its not set up like that… also ur amp is prolly adjusted not soo nice… why spend 50$ … DIY
I think the problem is your power cables are too small. The voltage drop is too high. What could be happening is that say your amp is looking for 390Watts. …
If it has a 13Volt supply then it will be pulling 30Amps. Now say because of the voltage drop through improperly sized cables or poor connections the amp only had 10Volts to work with; it will pull 390 / 10 = 39amps. The extra current will heat the amp up in time and force a thermal shutdown.