Building a new system...have some questions

0/1 gauge power wire off battery to distro block… split to two 4 gauge wires… one 4 gauge wire goes directly to interior speaker amp… other 4 gauge wire goes to capacitor, capacitor gets grounded. run 4 gauge wire from capacitor to subwoofer amp… then ground subwoofer amp. i ALWAYS used separate grounds for separate amps in my vehicles…might be more time taking and a pain in the ass to do but when done PROPERLY, a shorter, thicker, isolated ground will prove to be better than a shared common ground. ive had PLENTY of systems in my cars… the most radical of which was (4) 12" jl w3’s powered off a 1000/1, a jl A4300 4 channel interior amp powering a set of MA Audio HK-68 speakers off a alpine head unit… i ran all the wiring, installed all the speakers, and tuned the amps myself. and yes… i had a 2 farad MA Audio digital capacitor in there as well…isolated to the sub amp of course.

Provided you have a large enough wire, you don’t need separate grounding points. But if you can’t figure out or can’t get the size wire you need, two should be used. Electrons don’t care what wire they are in, as long as they have enough ‘space’ to get the the ground.

I’m not even looking at this thread anymore. If you want advice from an MECP Master Installer that has been in the industry for over 10 years, PM me. If not, good luck on taking advice from the backyard installers.

The way you connect your cap is no different electrically than the way I told him to connect it. The cap is a power source, if you plugged it into the cigarette lighter it would still function the same (if your cig lighter had 4awg wire)

LOL this thread is great

I don’t understand how Travis can’t understand this simple concept?

i dont get what you aren’t comprehending from what im saying? the CAP should only be used by the SUBWOOFER amplifier. i dont care if you hook it up to fuckin nipple clamps. its not my car… but for it to do its job properly it should be ISOLATED where the only amplifier drawing power from it is for the sub. or is that too hard for you to comprehend?

You’re retarded. The entire electrical system works as a whole. You could run a dedicated power wire, and its still connected to EVERY other electrical component in your car

And Ive competed in worldwide car audio events for the past 5 years and prob have one of the biggest audio setups in the area - its not like im just talking out my ass here

Nah, i get what Trav’s tryin to say.

no sir, you are the retard… you obviously dont have any sort of comprehension skills. YES im aware that its deriving its ORIGINAL electrical current from the battery which is powering the entire vehicle… im not a fuckin drooler. the capacitor is only helping the subwoofer amp when hooked up the way i described though. it receives its power from the battery and is “stored” in the cap… if the cap OUTPUT is only hooked up to that ONE amplifier… (hence isolated) it only allows the capacitor to discharge to that amplifier… which is the ONLY place you’d need a capacitor… NOT for the rest of the electrical system… or are you THAT dense?

So why would it ONLY feed his sub amp? Why would it not supply power to a mid/high amp? Usually sub amps are far more efficent then class a/b and can draw just as much current. Im not understanding the reasoning of that it is only used for the sub amp

So why would it ONLY feed his sub amp? Why would it not supply power to a mid/high amp? Usually sub amps are far more efficent then class a/b and can draw just as much current. Im not understanding the reasoning of that it is only used for the sub amp

subwoofer amps GENERALLY have a higher amperage draw, and put out more wattage than class a/b interior amps. an interior amp USUALLY puts out 80-150 watts per channel… a system requiring a capacitor GENERALLY has a class D monoblock with more than a 100 amp draw and putting out 1000+ watts. an interior amp is basically constant flow of current… mids and highs dont really take tons of power to create a well rounded sound… subs require instant “burps” of electricity which the cap helps dissipate the strain on the vehicles electrical system by having that stored backup supply. there are people of the belief that a high output alternator and an optima redtop battery will solve every electrical issue known to man… mind you it will help, no doubt… im all for that as well… as well as upgrading the vehicle chassis grounds under the hood, but a cap also helps and is usually a cheaper solution to buying a 200$ battery and paying $200+ for a high output alt.

The capactor is connected to the electrical system in parallel it is not isolated. When you flick on your headlights the cap will slightly discharge due to the instant current draw, your car’s electrical system works as a whole. The only way you can isolate the capacitor is to place a high current diode in series before the capacitor.

However, it is a good idea to wire the capacitor as close as possible to the subwoofer amp, or any high amperage devices.

Less wire = less resistance
Higher guage wire = less resistance
Less connection points (distros) = less resistance
clean grounds = less resistance

less resistance = good

Every time I click this thread I get more and more irritated…

I’ve got a electrical engineer sitting next to me right now with a title in hand to a 06 ZO6 Corvette saying that you are wrong.

This is Travis’ way of doing things…

last i checked energy can come from whatever power ources are shared hence the name backfeeding if another amp needs more juice it is gonna get it from the closest source,granted im now elec engineer but i may be right

close but not entirely correct…first off, I ground EVERYTHING separate. i do not share a common grounding point. and secondly… if the cap has a power INPUT post and a power OUTPUT post and ONLY the monoblock amp is hooked to the output post, how do you deduce that it is supplying power elsewhere? it doesn’t. the ONLY time the capacitor discharges is when the monoblock requires more electricity, OR if someone were to inadvertently ground it with say…a screwdriver… (which is fun… trust me…sarcasm). the electricity cant magically jump wires to power another amp if that other amp isnt hooked to the cap OUTPUT terminal.