i know this is an old question, and i did a breif google search, didnt get exactly what i was after, but what im wondering is, will the stock crank be ok to run under boost, with the exception of good bearings ect… and would i need to run good rods And pistons or can i get away with stock rods with good pistons, and rod bolts ect, running max 14 lbs, probly more around 10-12
i read up on a few ka-t projects and the stock pistons tend to brake with anythign over 10ps. But 10 psi on a ka-t is pritty damn fast it seems.
stock block KA at 19psi…
it’s all tuning.
Bing, how long has that setup been running at that power level? Does the guy track the car or was it just put at 19 psi for a few pulls to show that he made that much better but he runs like 7 psi daily?
Either way, pretty impressive for a stock block ka but that dyno chart could be misleading for newbs who are looking to ka-t their cars.
Keep in mind also that RWHP numbers matter more than an actual boost number - as different turbos at the same PSI will produce different power levels.
It really boils down to the tuning (mostly correct AFR’s in boost, and timing after approx 7 PSI), but the condition of the motor is also going to be important (mainly compression).
There are a million other factors to consider mostly relating to the condition of the engine and the thought/testing put into the install, but based on what you’re saying I would think you might be okay on a healthy stock block.
Some other factors in a needless KA-T failure might be:
– Oil level, type or condition problem (remember it keeps turbo temp in check as well, and KA’s need their oil!)
– Cooling system issues that lead to premature head gasket failures or other problems
– Running lean at any time in boost!
– Boost spike from bad boost controller or wastegate hose etc
I’d start with something lower boost and work your way up as you sort out the little things such as idling, driveability, downpipe noises, BOV adjustments, small leaks and whatever else might come your way! And like IRo said, you might be surprised at how 7-10 PSI feels to drive… 
This way if you like how things are going or want more power, you can build up the block of your dreams and still have your KA-T on the road! 
Good luck.
I am running a stock ka24de-t, with no problem. (First) you need a good running engine (2) upgrade stock ignition. I am running the MSD 6AL. (3) cooler spark pluges and better wires. (4) upgrade your fuel pump and injectors. (5) Proper Tuning is a most. etc JWF ecu retards the timing under boost or get an AEM. The Safc with the stock ecu is ok, but you cannot run high boost, stay blew 10psi.
I agree with you. start small and do it right once!!! no short cuts you will spend twice as much.
Were in scarborough u live? DarkForceJackal
ka-t can be reliable, its all in the builder, and tuner,
if you need help let me know.
yea man thats totally true and thats what i was thinkin about, but i think im just gonna drive the stock ka- untill i get the motor built, than swap it in, and dont get me wrong, anything over stock would be an instant smile, but i mean if im gonna spend the money on it, and build it and everything, id rather prepare the motor properly so i have the option to turn it up once everything is set up,
i got a really good shop whos gonna help me out with the tuning and set up and stuff, and i was also thinkin about sendin the ecu to pdm-racing, they got a write about stock ka-t runing 295 to the wheels at 9 lbs, on there own tune, has anybody had any experiance with this or had pdm do any work for them?
yea i kno that forum, i was lookin through it, that forum is really un-organized, thats why i brought it up
original drift, i would be interested in some points are specific things to look for or do on the motor any information is always good right
theres a KAT with stock internals running about 30 psi making 500 whp on youtube. but i think it only did a few runs on the dyno.
but remember tuning is the KEY! make sure u have a wide band O2 too. or say good bye to your ring lands… or more.
I have everything you need for your ka-t setup. COME BUY IT!!
lol maybe ill give you a call over the winter, untill than this is all in the works, im tryin to round up another engine, cuz i dont wanna pull mine but see what happens
KA is just as reliable as an SR. I made 440hp at 22psi on a stock 239,000 km block. I have been running it at 22psi for a while now and its been fine except for a headgasket leak which was an error on my part. But I have a cometic and arp’s waiting to go in. I am the stock block preacher!!!
And as bing said, its allllllllllllll int he tuning. I had the AEM when the car was NA and have been tuning it since day 1.
Here is the 440 dyno chart.
For those who have been wondering, the car has been running since sept 9 2006. Started at 12psi, then 16, then 22psi and I have put maybe 5000km’s on it, beating on it pretty much every time I drive it. I will try to get videos as soon as I get the cometic in but I work out of my garage building cars so I dont have any room right now 
Heres the video of our dyno session.
SR20 gt3071r tuned by EviltoM and U2NDyno and KA-T t3/t4 50 trim tuned by EviltoM Tuning
-Tom
Here’s someone who’s been in the game for a while folks.
Congrats on your numbers and longevity! Vids are a must! 
IMHO (and just as a note to anyone interested) - Any boosted engine is that more boost/power is obviously going to put more strain on most moving parts and seals etc than if it were NA. So basically this means at high boost, the key is that there must be no “weak link” in any aspect of the engine! Hence why I recommend starting with a healthy engine and lower boost settings at first while issues can be addressed while they are minor.
I’m guessing that about 90% of KA-T (and SR) blowups are the result of ignored symptoms (and overboost-happiness), with leanness probably being right up there, and continued driving.
Man, 440rwhp has got to feel great on the street!
HAHA cant feel it all with the tires I have. I need to get something 275 or wider and R compound to get the full potential.
what part of windsor you living? GOOD WORK!!! I am running a T67 turbo on a stock engine 65000km. I have 275 18 and I still spin tires.
no offense but driving a car for 5000km ovre a period of a year and then claiming it’s reliable is just silly in my eyes.