budget KA-T or i/h/e/c

Ok a few days back I was seriously contemplating getting rid of my s13 for an e36, but now I have decided to hold on to it and make it a little better. I am on a budget so I cant really justify dropping top dollar on a 18yo car, but want a car that feels good to drive. No chasing crazy hp figures on a dyno but a little more poke in the top end is desirable. Hope to go on track this summer.
Brief intro to the car
91 Hicas s13hatch with 215800kms on odo now. engine is old and leaks from valve cover but still pulls hard, will replace valve cover gasket & hopefully solve it. It was an auto when I got it but did a 5spd swap on it keepin auto ecu(=no rev limit), clutch is now starting to slip so I have ordered XTD stage3 clutch & 11lbs flywheel from ebay. I had put on a magnaflow exhaust, deleted cat and made custom piping with a resonator from a local muffler shop, sounds good now. Also ordered intake piping from ebay and will put on a HKS powerflow or AEM cone. Car had the usual frame rust so i welded metal on the front portions to reinforce and take care of underbody rust which might have disintegrated the car if left to germinate. Car also has a dent and some rust spots on body. I had put on skunk2 springs on kyb gr2s on all corners making the car sit pretty low, not good on bumpy downtown roads makes it feel a bit skittish.
I am about to get Q45 calipers to bolt on and get bigger 4 lug rotors either altima(93-95) or Sentra SE-R(99-00). probably use stock lines(or get braided line when a good deal pops up) and stock auto brake cylinder.
I have 2 options now

  1. cheap & reliable - i/h/e/c - Just put on the clutch & intake,
    put on a obx like 4-2-1 header,
    put an s13 exhaust cam on the intake side for 248/248 cam profile so I still have some top end
    get an s14 intake manifold
    money saved is spent on getting some paint touch ups (or repaint) suspension(RUCA, traction rods, maybe kyb agx and maybe hicas lock bar) and a nice set of wheels.
  2. budget KA-T - (budget abt 1g including labor) (some degree of reliability hoped for 200hp or less is plenty) - small t25 setup with low boost using either a cheap ebay kit or cheap ebay stuff and leftovers from someones stock sr20det, rb20det etc setup later upgraded consisting of the following -
    stock t25 or t28
    stock sr injectors
    ebay fmic or smic if cheaper
    ebay manifold & downpipe coupler
    ghetto oil feed line rigging (or forego it if not essential)
    ebay or ghetto piping
    either a safc2 (tuned on the fly just on feel by self)
    or e-mance ecu (just safer to get a base map from other and may get safc later)
    I may have missed a few things and would appreciate u KA-T guys filling me in on what else I might need or not need for a barebones KA-t. and what kind of reliability i can expect.

I hope u sonlings can give me an educated advise based on budget, condition of car(215800+ kms on engine, car not mint either), reliability and fun (noturbo= able to rev its nuts off with no worries + more to spend on handling= more fun, turbo - if I am in fear of it going KA-Boom anytime + broke and no more upgrades= nofun). What can I expect from n/a KA in terms of driving pleasure, and what kind of power & spread.

call me, i can help you get it all together within a day.

varun

i can clearly see your not mechanically inclined in what you need for a T25 reliable setup parts wise, I’d tell any KA-T enthusiast or learner to become a member on KA-T.org, they got all the facts and numbers. Most of them are more mechanically inclined than here, especially regarding turbos and tuning.

Varun would also be your better bet, don’t get crap ebay stuff.

Proper T25 setup will cost between $1000 - $1500, research, find deals and hookups, all you need is atleast decent parts and not some shitty China stuff for reliability purposes. You don’t need any internal work if your not gonna push more than 10psi on a T25, either way KA’s can handle ALOT of stress, but…only if you take care of them and maintain them! Even with stock 7psi, you make much better torque and power on a nice broad powerband than an SR! :wink:

Driving a KA NA is very boring, its got pull, and a little speed. But its nothing fun. Id rather drive my parents SUV lol.

Use a T25 on a KA and you’ll get hungry…I promise.

drop an SR and be done with it.

No more RB 240’s please…

on second thought…I kind of miss my KA…:frowning:

treat her good Brennon!

Im surprised you ain’t hungry on that SR of yours already lol
unless you got something else other than a stock motor:cool:

:wtcslap:

owned! :slight_smile:

^ lol, in the next two weeks I’m teaming up with you for a clutch install bud! gotta get this KA-T on the road! :slight_smile:

My SR is gay, and I’ve said it many a time, I miss my RB. Until I can push over 280 with the SR I won’t be happy. I wasn’t happy with the RB but I was satisfied that it could pull better than my SR.

The power bug bites when boost kicks in…you’ll always want more power, eventually.

I got a feeling I might…especially if I start dragging various people, but hey…that’s why I ain’t planning to keep the 240 for long, I just feel the need to upgrade to another vehicle overall by next year hopefully.

search this it has been mentioned many times and there are very debatable threads for you to read over and find some advise

go with this set up.its pretty basic.

Turbonetics T3/T4 50 trim
Custom log manifold
Tial 38mm wastegate with dump tube
FMIC
Greddy Type S bov
ATP stainless 2.5" intercooler piping
Clutchmaster’s stage 4 clutch
Greddy EManage along with 370cc injectors

replace the turbo with the t25/t28 and use a bings or megan turbo manifold. and you can use a internal wasgate too. shouldn’t cost to much

or go
t25/t28
oil pan with bung
oil lines
bings mani
fmic
cheap bov used from here for now
and if your capable of doing it a HG
370cc injectors wam bam thank you mam
no need to go crazy with power until you can upgrade your internals

or drop in an SR

shhh

well…if you think about

SR’s are the cheapest for reliability…right?

catch my dorifto?

may i also suggest a manual ost controller .its less then $100 and make a boost defender just incase.

*boost