mmm depends ka`s like to blow but there good short term fun and alot of parts can be transferred onto an sr and sr are built for hp but da ka is a torque whore and she has my heart
Kollo…PLEASEEEEE use some punctuation lol.
Bud!!! Go ka-t do it right!!!http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/Nissan-240sx-parts-kits.html
how much power you want? up to 400whp then just change pistons, ARP rod bolts, head bolt and a new felpro head gasket. http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/Nissan-240sx-bottom-end-parts.html
Get the ecu tune or buy an AEM or a Vi-Pec
Pick up a cheap ebay turbo kit or a good used kit, and have fun.
Check out Ka-t.org for parts http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=19&topicdays=0&start=0
im sorry im trying to be kool…cool
Stephen i don`t think he is able or willing to spend that much for rebuilds i think he wants to pay that for a complete setup.
Never go N/A KA, it’s well documented that they’re completely and utterly incapable of making any useful power without FI. Cammed, high comp cars running race gas barely break 200whp, and those builds cost easily double what it would cost to turbo.
My answer: Turbo, or if you can’t afford it, nothing.
SR’s suck balls stop bringing it up
I have had 2 and they are waaay too boring even when it has 300whp 
Deff stick with a KA-T setup and you will like it A LOOT more than an SR
Thanks for the input guys. What I am worried about is if my 220xxxkm daily driven KA motor is going to blow too soon, even running conservative boost & power. I dont want to do any work on the block internals yet. I was hoping to get a low boost setup to upgrade upon slowly, but am not sure if the block will hold up. Its my daily so I dont want to be out of a car when it happens.
make sure your car is properly tuned up and running well, you should know how it’s treating you overall, compression test is always a good thing to do if your not too sure.
Think of it this way, if your motor blew and it wasn’t soo tuff to begin with, then it’s better off either selling it and getting your next car or just installing another cheap KA that’s healthier and lasting longer this time around.
Have you done a compression test on your KA? If so, what were the readouts?
SR’s are mad JdM tYte y00000000!
This debate could go on for pages…truth of the matter is how much money are you looking to truly play around with.
KA-T vs SR?
KA gives you more torque, and a 4 cylinder thats 2.4L sounds mean turbo’d
I’m in the same boat as you, but I’m saving up, and collecting parts over time, rather than cheaping out at once. I learned my lesson after my engine “rebuild”. 240coupe needs to be shot. I was getting an oil change for free at Canadian tire (coupon ftw lol), and after they were done my car would just GRIND when trying to start it.
We later realized that 240coupe, who installed the engine, didn’t install the starter correctly, along with a plethora of other stuff. The bottom screw was practically disengaged from the thread, and the starter wasn’t aligned with the flywheel. I was stuck there for 2 hours until we found a longer bolt to put a nut at the end of, and realigned the starter. That fixed the problem.
There’s RTV used everywhere, EVERYWHERE, even the intake manifold. My rebuilt engine leaks oil, just as much as before the rebuild. The 5 spd. swap that he did, the clutch is slipping, the clutch pedal makes grinding noises when moving, the TOB sounds fucked, the clutch pedal contact point is near the top of the pedal, there’s an inch of dead play. My shifter lifts RIGHT OUT of the hole if I pull upwards (no snap ring?). The metal bracket from the transmission bellhousing is not even there. The rear left brake caliper had a wrong sized bolt forced into the thread. There’s more that I can’t remember at the time. Sad, isn’t it? I’m gonna have to spend the next year correcting his mistakes, and the claimed “engine builder” he sent my old KA to.
I hope this response shows you what saving a bit more money can prevent. Patience is a virtue. Remember, don’t cheap out, unless you’re sure the part is good and you’re just getting a good deal on it, e.g. used parts.
^owned
Seems like everyone is biased towards SRs on here on this forum according to the polls. I voted KA needs more than you can afford to be reliable and done right. If you can afford to do it right, it would be a better option for a better powerband and more torque.
However on the cheap, daily, yeah you could do it, just don’t expect to piss on it. Go ka-t forums as dragone pointed out to learn more.
How much faster can an rb20 be if it even is faster…in a s13
Helping a buddy do a Ka-T right now
T25 -$250.00
Bings mani - $100.00 used
walbro - $100.00
oil lines - $50.00
370 injectors outta an sr $80.00
N60maf - $50.00
re circ bov -$free off my RB
fmic -$200 used
clutch stage 2 -$50.00 used
this setup shouldnt require any tuning to run proper
and the re circ will stop bog unless you want a safc2 to compansate for it then add 200.00
Ka-t are awesome… lots O torque but the argument still stands that if you want reliable then go sr or something thats stock turbo… Ka-T will blow up… its a fact… it happens at some point… Just dont up the boost past stock unless you have proper tuning and I would recommend 91 octane at a minimum to be safe
^^ thanks. this is the kind of set-up i was looking for. how long till a Ka-t blows though?
It depens on how much boost you are running!!
BUILD THE ENGINE!!!
If you don’t know how amazing a KA + Turbo is…you should see the gold that’s circling around the net…
KA-T’s are viscious, I’d put them into the same drag league as torquey domestics like vettes, stangs, etc… I just love that “North American Vibe” to them more than opposed to JDM.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgHPPKHW8T4&feature=related
:blah:
The fact is that KA-T’s are stereotyped because people take their 150xxx km motors and do no work on it, bolt on their turbokits with mailorder ecu’s and think it will last when they beat the hell out of it.
Cheap, reliable, fast - pick two.
A budget of 1000 will not get you a reliable KA-T - either save more or don’t drive hard. I’ve put in hundreds hours of research of what to do or not to do for my KA-T setup. KA-T.org, Zilvia, Nicoclub will be your friend.
^Exactly
Hell you may build a fast kat for 1000, if you’re lucky and be faster than stock SRs or even lightly moded SRs, but you will not get the reliability and don’t expect piss on them. The problem with S chassis owners is cheapness and the lack of realization that you need money to go fast reliably