I’ve decided to go KA-T in the future on my 93 S13 which is at 218k atm.
I’ve been doing some serious researching and reading on KA-T.org and have come up with this: I’m going to build my KA24DE run it N/A until I save more money and in the meantime piece together my turbo kit. My goal is from anywhere from 200whp to 300whp with good response and reliability, while retaining good gas mileage.
Next week is rebuild time:
Arias 9.0:1 forged pistons
Stock rods
Cometic HG w/ necessary machine work
ARP Headstuds & Bolts
Basic rebuild necessities (new waterpump, new gaskets & seals)
Is there anything I’m missing guys? Should I rebuild the head?
Also, my budget for the rebuild is just under 2 grand, is this doable? Thanks for the advice.
they are going to deck the block when you build it so you will have to deck the head as well. a valve job with new seats and seals should be manditory. so in a word yes, you will have to do some head work. also, i know the stock rods are good but foged rods are better. in my opinion they should be on the list. also don’t forget new rod bearings and oil pump.
the current list you have there could be done for under 2g’s but dont’t forget there may be other issues once you pull it apart so factor in a few hundred dollars just in case.
head work, new bearings, and new oil pump should push it past 2g’s. new rods and you are looking at close to 3 grand.
Honestly, you should just buy another ka24de block for under $200, and rebuild the block from the ground up that way you don’t put any miles on the parts before you turbo it and you have time to slowly build that engine and still have a working car in the midst of it. Along with this, you will need either a tuned ECU, SAFC/2 or an AEM stand alone system.
I’ve been looking into it and a set-up running about 7-psi boost, good for between 200-220hp and between 220-240lbs-ft torque you need to set aside atleast $1500-$2000 for everything, turbo, intake, injectors, ECU, exhaust, etc and new gaskets. But that is on a stock block, with stock internals.
If you plan to rebuild the engine as well, then you’re looking at about $1000 worth of parts as well as what the the turbo setup will cost. You will need to retard the timing slightly which means new cams and tune the car to run rich if you want to turn the boost up properly without leaning out and potentially blowing the block to pieces.
Personally I feel just turbo the car as it is because, to be honest no point in dishing out the extra $1000 if you plan to run the car under stock boost because you can get another ka24de very easily and very cheap, thats jsut my two cents though.
lol ahh true, yeah thats why i was saying why go for the extra $1000 for pistons and shit if you’re going to be running stock psi. If you blow the block its $300 tops for a new one anyways, you can go through 3 blocks which translates into between 75’000km-200’000 km generally with the same turbo set up.
Yah but think about the hassles with swapping the engine, finding an engine, etc. I know there are tons around, but from my experience, when the time comes and you need one, it’s imposible to find a decent one.
I know its not simple… but theres always someone trying to sell a KA, they’re swapping them out even though the KA is a good engine to start off with. If you run 7psi through a KA, and just upgrade the HG, you can get probably 75’000km out of the engine before it goes kapooe, that is if it compression tests fine.
Like I said, I’m not looking to go crazy with hp. I just want a nice torquey and quick street car, which gets an occasional beating at a track.
I’m probably not going to get the rods…and just spend that money refreshing other things like suspension and brakes. It’s a 15 year old car you know lol.
And Mark, I know its not easy to buy what you want when you want, especially in the used market. I’m going to try everything to ensure I don’t blow my engine. This is why I’m taking one step at a time. You have to take me for a ride in your SR’d car, I’ve never even sat in one before…just for comparison’s sake…and fun lol.
I trust Draggone’s work, and have been for a ride in his KA-T powered S13…that thing is a monster, even at 8 psi.
One more thing, the water pump and oil pump can be replaced later when I am turboing it right(with the engine still in the car)? The reason I’m asking is because the money I’m spending now on the rebuild should go into parts that will be much easier to replace with the engine still out.
Thanks again for your responses guys. Any other advice would be appreciated. This is a big decision (and risky…). I will continue to research on forums like KA-T.org.
Based on your goals, get a SR20. The KA-T will cost a lot more and the gains don’t outweigh the cost. Sure you’ll get a bit more power down low but that’ll get old fast, especially when SR’s with minor bolt ons are waving past you at the track.
The SR will bolt in, run mint, get great mileage and power, and will not need tuning out of the box. Its also as responsive as you could want with the stock T25 and even better with a T28 BB turbo.
I do think the KA-T is a lot cooler, mainly because of the amount of work that needs to go into them, but I don’t think you care about that.
Spending $2500 on an imported engine with an unknown history, then paying someone to swap it in…then all the other crap that will need to be bought to upgrade it (FMIC, new turbo, walbro, injectors, tune)…
Why not start fresh? Plus, I like the KA’s characteristics.
sigh This is an expensive hobby.
After speaking with Draggone in person I’ve come to this:
Arias 9.0:1 Forged Pistons
Stock Rods
Felpro HG
ARP Headstuds, Main & Rod bolts
Clevite bearings
0.02 overbore + hot tanking & decking the block
Head inspection & decking
All gaskets & seals changed
Would this be doable for 2 grand with everything done professionally? (not including engine removal and reinstall of course)
if you spoke to this guy personally hten you should also have your answer. if i had to guess i would say yes it can be done for under 2 grand. i was quoted i think 1800 for a complete bottom end hi-comp rebuild with forged rods and pistons and bored over 2mm. this was for my toyota and not a ka however. let us know how it all goes for you.
Just get a stock SR. Who says you need to get a new turbo, etc? The SR also gives you much more room in the engine bay to work with and it’s slightly lighter I think if that means anything to you.
Get a whole front clip. You can get one with like 100,000km or less if you look hard enough. And sometimes you usually get some goodies with it too.
Btw, do you have an alternate car / daily driver along with your 240?
If it’s a daily driver. I HIGHLY recommend going SR. But if you want to keep a spare KA lying around and you’re mechanically inclined, then I would go KA-T. I’m not trying to say that KA-T is crap, but you definitely have to be a lot more dedicated to your car if you want to pursue that route.
I know everyone wants 300whp. But take things slowly. Personally I’d do up all my suspension first if you haven’t done so already.
I am definetely taking your advice about suspension Mark…I never said I’m going 300whp yet or at all, this is just an N/A rebuild
I’ve got Bings TC rods laying around, gonna purchase a Nismo powerbrace and FLCA w/ new balljoints soon…maybe Stance coilovers and RUCA’s after winter. btw, how’s your VTEC civic? lol
