I love my Ka-t, I beat 2 600cc bikes in ( Mexico) lol.
^LOL
What psi are you running now Stephen?
i spent over 2000 on my Ka-T and it blew in the first weekend because i didn’t rebuild the engine. you can do everything right, but if you neglect the rebuild, it’s all for nothing. pick up a used ca18 or buy an rb20, cheapest turbo routes i think. and get a WIDEBAND O2 SENSOR!!!
Don’t start the invest in a N/A ka. If you do I hope you are ready for some big $$$ to get decent hp. People who are saying that ka-t are not reliable probably end up blowing the engine cause it was not tuned properly, like with a SAFC…
If you are running a stock ka, don’t plan on running to much boost. That’s where people do mistakes, they overboost an engine that was not meant for boost. If you do the ka-t, build yourself another engine on the side to eventually run more boost (you’ll get addicted). If you need info’s, let me know, I can help you out.
There’s no need to suggest that a rebuild is required when the KA is able to handle moderate amounts of power with good tuning. You spent $2000 on your KAT - how much did you spend on manangement/tuning?
The fact that your engine blew has nothing to do with your engine not built. What have you done for the tuning? What injectors/MAF/turbo were you running and at what boost level?
20psi right now.
Listen guys the most important thing is tuning.
lol if you dont have a wideband don’t expect to modify your car right. It’s like driving blind folded, you have no idea how much air or fuel you’re adding nor whats happening in there… if you want to do things right NA or turbo’d, get the items that keep your engine safe, reliable and monitored… of course it may cost extra but it’ll save you in the long run.
i had the t-25 from an sr, 370cc sr injectors, and just 5-7 psi. BUT the engine had close to 250K on it also. for me, it was a rebuild issue. i was also using the emanage blue system.
it’s easy to turbo, only thing i had a bitch of a time with, was the oil feed and coolant lines. the threading didn’t match anything else i had used. other than that though, easy as pie.
fast
cheap
reliable
you can pick any two, but not all 3. speed is not cheap and if you are cheap, it doesn’t last.
i’d go with a turbo setup personally. once you go boost you never go back. probably the most important thing on a reliable setup is proper tuning. if that fails, it doesn’t matter how cheap or expensive your other parts are, they will still break.
T25 too small for KA-T. Only go KA-T if you’re going to go 110% and don’t cheap out on it. If you need new gaskets, I’m selling a Felpro KA24DE set.
Oh i will for sure man
i put the swap on hold for a bit to do some much needed suspension work.
i am building it right, dony worry. i’ll let you ripp it a little one day…for old times sake lol
Go RB20DET.
Under $2000 (stock motor with 3" exhaust and a MBC set to 13PSI) gets you into a car with roughly 220WHP to 250WHP and almost same same torque and an EVIL sounding car. Dead reliable too.
I don’t care what anyone says, I’d go RB20 or RB25 over SR anyday. Sound better, cheaper, more reliable and inline sixes are in a different world of fun to a 4 cylinder.
Love em.
KA-T’s are horrible.
Please back this up with some reasoning…?
What happened to that CA18DET thread? Dude…you’re all over the place, I think that you really need to narrow it down first.
Let me guess, you’ve either recently gone KA-T or maybe thinking about it?
Anyways, here is the complete lowdown on KA-Ts.
The thing about going KA-T is that the word cheap is ALWAYS put into the equation for some reason.
And as that old saying goes…Fast, Cheap, Reliable, pick 2. It’s 100% true.
99% of the people that I talk to wanna turbo their KA because it’s “cheaper” and it’ll be “faster” than an SR.
And what does that leave you with? 3) An unreliable car.
Then their KA-T blows and their setup is worthless and gets sold for $600 - $800 to the next kid…while they go to Varun and get themselves an SR motor this time.
What does this mean?
They just spent HOURS + more money and ended up with an SR or maybe RB20 (Since that’s the trend now?)
Meanwhile, next kid buys that KA-T kit and blows his motor…and the cycle continues.
Perfect. It’s like you went into my brain, took a picture, then wrote down what you saw in the picture, then posted on SON in my defense. Who’d wanna pay $5 to punch you in the face, really??
I also discourage KA-T so I can be one of few with one that hasn’t blown 
haha I’m just speaking from what I’ve seen in the last few years.
Also, probably no one would pay $5…people are too cheap.
I’m 100% for that reasoning gts/fobwall (see post on first page of this poll) I assumed you were an sr-head bashing lol.
My setup is nowhere near cheaper than an sr nor did I ever assume it would be - my bottom end already costs far more than a blacktop swap and I haven’t even dug into the heads yet…
Kudos for having a reliable ka-t, hopefully ill join your club in a while 