How much boost would a stock 240sx ECU handle before you need to buy an aftermarket one? I was thinking 5-7 psi. Am I close?
240SX ecu ah.
370cc injectors, N60 Maf and retard the timing 3 or 4 degrees. This a setup alot of guys on a budget have been doing with T25’s. Probably safely10PSI, if you get at least a SAFC.
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Talk to Jack! He knows enough about 240SX’s and what the KA14 ECU will let you take. I would think about 5-7 aswell. Why dont you just buy a CA18 though and drop it in. Its already turbo and you can get 300hp out of her pretty easy without doing much to her other than the bolt ons that you can use on any car anyways so its never a bad investment.
KA-T!! drader do it or be sorry… :axe:
Get onto KA-T.org and start reading…ALOT!! The more you know the better chance you will have of not blowing the first engine…Trust me.
HAHA I be thats more true than I think.
swaps are no fun turbo that sucker haha u can run as much boost as u want on ka24de ecu its identical to sr20det ecu . You do need to get a DOUGHTER BOARD or bikiboard
to edit ur fuel/timing maps . As well with those boards u can run z32 mafs 800cc injectors whatever your hart desires.To be honest timing maps on sr20 and ka24de ecu are preety similar so alot of people just load up sr20det fuel and timing maps as basemaps when start ka24det’s. stock ecu and safc is a combo for disaster cuz u running boost on na timing map (new set of bearings coming up). ka24e is a different story thow. :rolleyes:
this might be a n00b question, but here it goes anyway.
SR20DET is a 2.0 liter engine, correct? thats 2.0 liters ofdisplacement. are these engines desireable only for the fact that they have a turbo already? or is it something more along the lines of them having more power potential compared to the KA overall?
I have a KA24DE engine in my ride, so 2.4 liters of displacement. With the extra 0.4 liters of displacement, wouldn’t this engine be prime for power modding over the SR’s 2.0 liters?
I have been wondering for a while now if turboing my KA would be a better idea than a swap. Please enlighten my confused mind! :rolleyes:
This has been discussed to death on every Nissan forum. It’s an argument that will never be won by either side. too many pros and cons of each engine. It just depends on what you want and what your goals are. Please search this forum and the other Nissan forums for the countless arguments.
ok thanks man, will search and sry for the thread jack
The answer is simple …what is ur preference a 2.0 l turbo or 2.4 L turbo ?.
My idea was (while i was on the way to Calgary to pick it my front clip) :
U don’t ever see some dude ripping out rb25det to go with rb20det cuz its better for some odd reason haha, ussually u see people boring for more displacement not other way around. People have been turboing mustangs etc for ages now Na to Fi.
I also realized that ka will need more work/ development to make it 90% efficient FI .
But than when i was alredy in calgary i remamabered 1st ka-t i’ve ever been too back in 2000 or so. It was homemade ghetto rigged kit using z31 turbo some mj clamps some fmic from pickapart and fuel managment was fmu 10.1 unit haha maybe 100-150$ and that POs of a setup murdered my other friends sr20det and acctually lasted entire summer(turbocharger colapsed). So i just picked up my silvia panels and went on ebay ordering up turbo shiet.Don’t ever buy a used turbo there lesson learned.
Ka-t has been an interesting project so far and quiet different
Made me realize few things:
240sx is a modern civic and sr swap is a modern b series swap. One popular motor i guess , but I wanted a project for summer(as a hobby , something to do while drinking beer after work) not a weekend swap and something different than most have.
A motor is a motor , forced induction is forced inductiom 2.0 or 2.4L. Most of the guys do a swap , than end up getting bigger dp and exhaust, t3 or similar turbocharger , bigger injectors, stanalone or chipped ecu , intercooler bov, boost controler etc, oil feed and return steel braided with a/f fittings, z32 maf, clutch kit, etc…
Well at that point u just stripping it to Na sr20de and than returbocharging it with parts u wanted. So why spend 2500$ on sr core and another 3000$ in turbo upgrades if u have 2.4 core with iron block already in the bay waiting to be forced fed since 90’s .All it needs is a turbo kit straped on and ecu to control it .
And at the end of the day there isn’t a better motor only a better or at least proper tune. .Bad tune(MISTAKE DURING TUNING) and even a 20k $ build rb26dett will colapse. Wastegate acctuator malfunction and sr20det needs a headgasket.It can happen to any motor at any time.Even some NA engines fail due to fuel system or other malfunction and u can’t blame piston rings or rods for it, or even somehow place a blame on it being a “truck motor” well trucks haull ass.
Put together a turbo kit for ur ka based on ur power goals i suggest super 60 T3 or similar for ka nothing smaller .Ka-t manifolds are on ebay and bunch of other places online now days. Than take it to muffler shop and have a custom 3" dp and exhaust system made/installed(just as you would with sr swap ). Get ur ecu chipped(bikiboard suggested) or standalone (do it before turbocharging and get a hang of using it). Get some 550cc injectors (rc, or rx7 factory make sure they high impedence).Intercooler kit with bov and z32 maf. Now go dyno and tune out ur timing/fuel map based on ur motors new needs.If ur blow ur ka there is ussaly cores kicking around for under 500$ or to rebuild all parts are always available localy.
Don’t get me wrong if u don’t want to fuck and confuse urself just swap in ca and get boost controler done. But if u planning on stripping all OEM turbo goodies that come with sr and upgrading that ca/sr for most power than u better of doing ka as far as $ per whp.Of course preference is a big choice too. some people are just more familiar with sr/ca/rb so they want that specific motor for own personal reasons.
But if u not mechanicly inclined or don’t have a shop to do the work go with a swap.
I hated myself for not doing ca swap almost entire last summer while fucking with ka and making shiet work, but it was fun and by turbocharging the ka my mind expended into tuning , and many other aspects of mechanics . It run fine for a week of safc and factory ecu and than boom , came a main bearing knock(lucky i had ka haha if it was sr than it would be another 2500 core). I stored it for winter and since about end of march i have been rebuilding it(all new parts , crank .10 over , threw in 300zx clutch kit and flywheel etc) on part time basses instead of swaping in another ka, so it took awhile since i ddid it all myself besided machining.
I finished it about 3-5 weeks ago and runs pretty well i must say , still working out a minor isssue at idle. Even in na form rebuild it has a nice kick.This time my ecu is chipped and i took away few degrees of my timing map as well as dumped some more fuel inboost. So ka-t for enddd up being quiet a project from not doing it right the first time.
Now i am waiting to finish the bodywork and get myself on the dyno for an hour or 2.
So yah sr ca rb vg ka etc are all great motors just pick 1 u want to work on and that should be ur choice.I hope my wierd post will helkp u make ur dessicion.
^^^ :eyes :prayer:
questions questions questions, but i dun wana thread jack anymore. dude that was awesome, and I also did a little searching of my own and found a great thread on another board about the KA SR debate. PM me if any of u guys want the link
KA’s aren’t designed to rev. they are designed for small trucks. nissan just screwed us over and threw them into the 240sx. they aren’t as strong under high boost, and are heavy. the SR20DET in lighter, stronger, and revs higher nice and freely. comparing a RB20 and a RB25 is like comparing apples to apples, not apples to oranges. the KA is completly diferent than the CA or SR. the CA and SR are designed to handle boost. they have parts inside that are designed to handle those extreme conditions, the KA doesn’t. it can be built to handle those conditions, but right from factory the KA, like any NA engine will handle a few PSI of boost for maybe 100,000KM’s no prob. the CA, SR will handle 10-20psi for longer with less major problems.
It comes down to what they were build to do. you can make a round peg fit in a square hole, but why bother when you can just get a square peg??
:? …Maybe I’ll just go with the CA then. How hard are CA parts to get though? Would I have to get parts shipped from japan just because something small and stupid breaks?
the drama starts
u know i never really bashed sr in my thread i only listed reasons i went with ka ,and that at the end of the day displacement plays the key when both are fully build. But anyhow please explain 1 single coment u made explain what makes ka a bad candidate for reving , boosting etc u arguee . it seems u post someone elses coments from some other threads i’ve read before.Truck motors are used in numerious sports cars for a reson by other manufacturers and Nissan itself. The reason nissan gave a ka to 240 is the same reson charger has hemmi etc. Truck motors are made to produce torque and haul shiet around , build tough haha and in lighter body a truck motor is a powerhouse(ls1 hemi etc ).And if ka was a shietier build than sr2o why was it manufactured from 89-97 , why didn’t nissan just use sr20det in every car that has ka . Why did some other smaller car manufacturers that purchased nissan engines use ka in their cars when they could of bought a bunch of superior sr’s.
Also sr has stronger internals how is that? why is people buying pistons and rods(aftermarket) for them than , if u get into those power levels with ka than sure u can go get a set of forged goodies as well. Everything has a roof there is bone stock ka with proper fueling and tuning that made over 500whp, how is that for not build for boost and it has been at 400whp level for well over 100k miles now from what i remamber.
. ALso imported sr with 100k on it already or whatever the guy in japan says it has only has so much life left anyway but feels alot better than begged out ka with 230k on it.
But ka with 100k boosted is a different story.
Forced Induction still has to do more with whats in ecu’s timing and Fuel map at any level, not that engine usses shorter stroke or whatever makes u belive sr is better for boost. I wanna see u running sr20det at 20psi on sr20de ecu , and thats the problem with ka’s that people oversee when going turbo.
Also i guess mustangs other high horspower nonturbocharged cars weren’t made turbo neither but somehoe properly set-up last years and make tons of power without any internal upgrades.Honda has never even had a turbocharged motor OEM i don’t think , but boosted civics last a while and i am pretty sure honda didn’t just prebuild em for turbo and sold as NA.Stronger internals is just more room for error at lower power levels and morre room at higher 500whp+ levels . Shiet i’ve heard of people turbocharging lawmovers u think those are made for boost , now but people do it for fun.So its what u want not whats inside.
4 i won’t even waist anymore time here trying to argue with u i can see u like sr an see their benefit so i am glad u found a motor u like an enjoy it.But u can’t bash a motor just cuz u see some benefits in a negative way or cuz its truck na factory non turbo engine. U know before u say anything else i suggest u research into what other motors nissan uses in a truck and also in a sports car as well as other car manufacturers.
Do you have any fisrt hand experience with a KA-T or Turboing a NA Engine…Im guessing not. The KA is unreliable when Turboing mostly from Tuning. Take a SR20DET change the injectors, maf, turbo and put a PFC or other type of engine managment system on it and see how reliable and strong those internals are without spending some coin or having the knowledge to tune it.
SR’s or CA’s (Not so much) appearvery reliable even when uping the boost on the stock turbo, the ECU has enough safe guard to prevent anything major form happening. But once something goes wrong…Its bye Bye to the rings or Headgasket also.
Its all personal preference but the KA will take more money to be reliable, its cheaper to put in a stock SR and max the turbo on it, most people dont need more than 250 WHP anyways.
Dont worry about KM’s on a KA, the one i boosted had 290 000 KM’s and felt very good at 8PSI (Before i popped it) CTS-V’s and STI’s and 13.5 Second SR20’s didnt have much to say after seeing my tail lights.
:partyman:
This is what a KA24 can do, http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10867&highlight=gt32++psi. Lets see an SR20 make 260 WHP and 340 Ftlbs at 4000RPM. :E :E :E :E :E :E :E :E :E :E
good to see info coming from both sides. glad to know we have some experience with KA-T in this club!