Does anyone know the max hp achievable by turboing the stock ka motor. I am refering to stock internal . I just need a simple answer . Please don’t make this one of those endless threads.
I’ve heard stories of 400 HP on stock internals.
but if your gunna go that far, why not change some of the internals too?
about 400. Check FA and do a search.
http://www.freshalloy.com/site/home.asp
It’s actually 500+, I think Ivan is around 530whp on stock internals iirc. You can check www.ka-t.org for more information.
thanx everyone .
I got more question guys. I have a sohc ka motor in the car. Will the amount of work require swapping a ka24de the same as swapping an sr?
I been doing a lot of research lately and both setup will cost about the same price for the HP I want to got, which is 300 crack HP. That may sound little to some of you guys but I don’t think I will ever need more than.
Some say get the SR, put a t3 turbo, 550 injector and crack the boost till you hit 300. Other say got a turbo kit for the sohc ka motor and hope you get 300. Some other say build a ka24det motor swap into the car and I should get 300 hp at 7 psi. The only major concern would be reliability (I will still need that 300 hp car to take me to work for years and years to come).
Anyway guys its very late and I am bored at work. Just though of producing some reading material for the board.
“Crack” hp?? :lol:
You won’t get 300hp on 7 psi without other mods…even with intercooler, exhaust, injectors/pump etc expect about 210-240rwhp (around 240-280ish at crank). Which is great for only 7 psi.
For reliabilty, choose the manifold carefully & use a flex pipe in the exhaust setup, use a new turbocharger & good parts w/ a BOV, keep the boost at 7 & use a gauge, install parts & clamps carefully, use a good clutch, intercooled is better, and watch your AF ratios! Basically invest money on the initial setup being right & quality.
Okay yeah 500+ HP with Standalone and only a Dyno Queen…
Which means it will do a Pull or 2 Once a moth.
Daily Driveable your looking at 280 - 300 max to the wheels on stock internals.
the modification list for the second 240SX 1995 SE
(4) 1600cc injectors
Custom BYP Top feed Fuel Rail
-10 Fuel Line, -8 return, Aeromotive 1000 HP fuel pump
3"core Greddy intercooler, custom 3 1/2" intercooler piping
Custom BYP 3 1/2" stainless steel downpipe
3 1/2" Custom Apexi exhaust
Halech E6K stand alone
Custom BYP Mild Steel header exhaust
Custom T4/T66 turbo
Custom BYP Intake Manifold, Q45 throttlebody
KA24DE tranny, Fidanza Flywheel
ACT Clutch X-treme Clutch kit 4 puck disc
Customer Ported Head and Engine Assembly
Pauter Rods, CP pistons (9.5:1)
ARP HEAD + Main + Flywheel bolts
Koyo polished radiator, BYP water pump surge pulley
MSD 6AL Box, NGK wires, Champion C59 plugs.Dyno’d 620.95 HP and 467.46 max torque at 30psi / VP C16 Fuel @ 7600 RPM redline
DTEC KA-T, daily driver and drag car:
Do some research, there is a little more involved then slapping a T3 to the KA and boosting 7psi. Tuning is key, or tricking stock ecu into running rich. Cheapest solution is SAFC, expensive solution is standalone which is alot better though.
Your SOHC will be fine, but depends on mileage. If mileage is high I would strip her down and rebuild. Mine only has 180k and I’m changing bottom end bearings and rings.
Also, as I heard one person say on another board. “Its not a matter of if, but when it will blow”. So always have a spair engine ready to go in.
Andrew.
http://members.rogers.com/jjm-imports/Turbo.htm
heres my part list you can go by. This is the price for reliabilty. SR is cheaper.
I agree with you , my sohc ka has near perfect compression, could be a perfect candidate for turbo but sr would be cheaper . By the way, with all that invested , How many hp do you have on the motor ?
Impressive for sure…but not stock internals
Yeah, hehe just wanted to post it. Stock internals on a ka-t daily driver should hold up fine until you hit maybe 300+ whp. That is ofcourse assuming that you have a healthy engine, and tuning is key.
correct me if i am wrong… i think KA is stronger than SR …because of the IRON Block…~~ that’s why RB is iron instead of aluminum block…~~ 
I’ve been looking into this as well. I’m leaning more towards KA-T but will definitely rebuild the motor before I do so. KA has more torque than HP, which is the best part I like about this engine. Also, the amount of money spent on getting just the base sr20det from Japan and installed in your car, can get you a lot of HP Turboing the KA. Am I right ppl?
very wrong. If you do a full rebuild, even if work is done yourself. Your looking at 500 in change for a half assed rebuild, I’ve done it. This doesn’t include port and polish work on the head. A decent manifold is another 400 bucks, then you have cost of your turbo. Looking at probably another 400 in change if you buy new.
The list goes on. Look at Justins website, where he breaks all the parts down in price. This is in no way cheap, unless you can do all the work yourself, which includes making your own downpipe and manifold and are very resourcefull in finding all the other parts you need.
Andrew.
213hp and 217tq. I should be running more after winter
KA-T with a stage 1 t3/t4 turbo kit and only using a FMU 12:1 with stock internals is able to make 232HP and 252ft-lbs @8PSI all day long. Rember that is at the wheels this kit which I will post a link for is 1875USD and comes with everything you need including intercooler which is a gerret peice and the intake and downpipe are CAD and Flowbench Tested. So more HP and Torque then a SR and like 1/3 the price? I will take the KA over the SR any day.
Would you trust a fmu? I would get the car dinoed befor I boosted to see how rich or lean it would be. I would be worryed that the a/f would be all over