the only problem with the tib is there is no sodtware out for adjusting timing or really ignition yet…any thoughts?? could i use a universal MSD ignition box to tune that?? (sry guys know a decent amount about cars but im lost as far as tuning!!!) AFR will be set threw my SAFC-II but beyond that…what the heck am i supposed to do?!
You can use the S-AFC but not Emanage? What’s the compression of the motor? The S-AFC does the job but it’s lack of fine tuning and no timing adjustment kills it as an option for me. What’s the stock injectors and the new injectors? Plan on raising the fuel pressure? If you are jumping size on injectors, then I’d be deathly afriad if I do not control timing
lmao stock injectors are a hole 190CC replacing with 440s and im afraid of not being able to adjust timing…what are my options tho?1
190CC -> 440CC? Is that even possible with the S-AFC? Is anyone else using S-AFC with 440CC?
yes it is possible and yes its done often…
oh and if i got fidanza cam gears and adjustable cam sprockets i could tune my timing correct??
No. That’d be your valve timing, not your ignition timing.
The S-AFC is not made for huge jumps in injector sizing. You’re doing more than a 50% jump which I believe maxes it out. What the S-AFC does is just tricks your ECU into thinking there’s a different amount of air going through the head. So in turn, the ECU, not knowing what is actually going on, will up the timing. When you’re making a huge difference on the ECU, the results can be rather destructive.
Megasquirt
ok guys…throw something universal for ignition timing at me…and the tiburon runs super rich stock…right now my SAFC is set to -10 till 4 grand where it slowly increases to -17
so it shouldnt be to large a problem…and theres people that run this setup often…but i DO need ignition timing…is there an MSD unit i can use??
Its nice bro…love the color
Forget about MSD. Unless you’re going with a standalone box, the MSD won’t cut it. You either need a good piggyback that can access and alter your stock signals, like a Greddy Emanage ultimate, or a complete standalone system like an AEM. Megasquirt won’t do you any good if you have a hard enough time figuring out what to do with ignition timing. It’s an end-user-configurable style setup which can easily confuse even experienced enthusiasts. Don’t bother with it - in fact, don’t bother doing ANY tuning yourself at this stage.
You’ll have a hard enough time finding a system that allows you to keep your OBDII system functional, so you can pass NYS inspection every year.
Best advice… do a LOT of research and educate yourself as much as possible on piggybacks. eManage ultimate will probably be the best moderate system you can get. 440cc injectors tend to be decent for about 75bhp per injector, depending. The trick you’ll have is finding whether a piggyback can alter that signal enough to allow stock engine management to run the car under boost. You’ll still have to have some timing maps drawn up by an experienced dyno tuner and you’ll have to do research on just how much resolution your airflow meter has, where to find an upgraded fuel pump as a minimum, how to plumb an intercooler onboard and what turbocharger to use that best suits your setup. That’s before you start finding what breaks under boost.
Honestly, I’d modify it naturally aspirated, shove a limited slip onboard, find out about upgrading the V6’s truck-style camshafts, then ditch the wimpy tuner style wheel/tire combo for some real meats. Then I’d hit up some motorsports events… and I don’t mean the dragstrip.
You mean decreases to -17?
How with 50% correction max for the S-AFC?
Correction # are meaningless but very interested in how “1X” correction would baseline that car at all given the fuel upgrades. Please post a 3rd gear pull from 3K to redline datalog including RPM/AFR (I’d love WB02 but I’ll take NB02), KNOCK, TIMING, and any other relevant information.
Good post as usual. Too many people jump in, break $&1t, and then blame the car. Plan first before install. A newb tuner with a setup that needs timing control is a bad combo. 
lol its not like im looking to tune this thing myself…i want it tuned and i want it tuned right thats why im asking…and fuel upgrades will be the 440s walbro fuel pump and aeromotive FPR (all of which i have currently but not installed)
really nice cant wait to see this
what about the AEM FIC that someone jsut brought to my attention?? would this be good for me wanting to control fuel and ignition??
My friend kyle has one, thats the same as yours just blue…
and my friend rob had a red one same year… or so but wrecked it
this is a very good point. +1 for you sir.
this is also a very good point. You have to sit down (maybe literally) and ask yourself what you want from the car. Are you willing to go through the hassles every year with trying to get it inspected because of the computer either not being there or being modified. If you think it might be too much of a hassle for you, then I would say re evaluate your situation. Is the car still under warranty? take that into consideration. I can’t speak for Shawn, but im pretty sure his number of parts broken, warped, fucked up, left stranded situations is up there too. Is this your daily driver? can you afford to have your car out of commission for 2+ months due to something messed up? I would DEFINITELY not do something like this and try to do everything DIY. like shawn said, there isn’t 2 million people turbo charging a newer v6 tiburon out there, so alot of it is in the unknown. Check the forums, ask shop’s that are familiar with the tib’s for advice, I dont know the cars year, but I did a quick check on aem’s web site, and they dont have any ems boxes listed.
And about the street tuning, if your getting it dynoed, I think it takes about 5 more minutes to simply adjust the boost pressure and regraph it. Might be a worthy investment just to let the tuner do both. Instead of alcohol injection have you thought of an additive, like toulene? (its paint thinner)
and are the fuel lines able to support that kind of power? is the walbro unit able to support that power? Have you thought of buying a fuel cell setup or getting the tank sumped?
I am in no means trying to discourage you from following your hopes with the car, I just want you to make sure you research EVERYTHING before you open a can of worms and then find yourself at a dead end. the only reason I’m bringing these things up is because EVERY single one of them I have come up to unexpectedly.
-Jason, who has to go and figure out a way to get his car inspected…
I street tuned my camaro myself…Its actually very simple once you learn your program…given, I have HP tuners which is a a $500 software CD that install’s on a laptop…and i can do anything and everything with it.
I actually found that On the dyno, my Boost kicks in 300rpms Higher, then it does in the streets…Turbo car’s are weird. The motor Depends on the “Load” that they get to spool that turbo…If you have a little less Load on your engine at the dyno, boost is gonna kick in slower…if theirs too much load then on the street’s…its gonna kick in sooner. I just dial in my car as much as possible on the street and throw it up on the dyno to double check everything (better to be safe then sorry)…Morgan was nice enough to throw my Domestic turd up on his dyno…did a few pulls and realized we couldnt get anywhere due to a leaking fuel injector O-Ring and maxing my MAF at 9psi.
Your goals for 8-10 psi (350-370whp) are un-reachable. Im not calling you out or anything…just I know guys with T61 on boosted tib’s on 10psi only making 290whp AT MOST…usually its between 260-290…you would need to run atleast 16psi to reach your (low boost) goal of 370 wheel…Hell, I have a T72 and a engine that makes nearly 40 more whp then yours stock…and I wouldnt put down those numbers at 8-10 psi without a special grinded turbo cam and ported heads to match my specific flow rating.
Also, I reccommend for any aftermarket Boosted Application to run NGK BR7EF spark plugs. I have been running the NGK TR6’s for nearly a year now and the BR7EF’s are a step colder and allowed me to run 5* more timing (just installed them yesterday)…they say depending on the car under F/I that every 1* you can add of advancement, gives you 10 more HP.Give or take 1-2*…Colder plugs means lower cylinder temps = less Detonation…every hardcore F/I Junky will tell you that the BR7EF’s are the only way to go.
mods -> :stfu <-me