cams

You should try setting your rev limiter higher than what you actually want to rev until. If you’re running until 7500 it’s probably safer to set it to 8000 and shift by 7400-7500. If you don’t shift in time it’s probably better reving the motor out those couple hundred rpms until you make the shift at 7600/7700/7800 rather than bouncing off the limiter. This is simply a suggestion, I have read of a few guys doing this just so they don’t bounce around off the limiter up high.

I have my limiter set to 8k I believe and i’ve never hit it. 2 step limiter is another story though.

thing is its while you’re drifting right

so when the tires are spinning its really easy to over-rev the motor and thats what happens you’re flooring it concentrating on keeping your line and the only way to do that is by flooring it and riding the limiter, a couple hundred rpm wouldn’t make enough difference

on my white car it had no rev limiter what so ever, i drifted a couple times and once or twice revved it up to 9000rpm. You know why it stopped there? Valve float.

Thank god i didn’t toss a rocker, but i’ll tell you one thing everything in the driveline sounded fucked (esspecially my B&M shifter)

really what I need more than anything is a soft cut rev limiter that just retards timing and lightly cuts spark to keep the engine revving at that rpm but not bouncing back and fourth off of it so violently

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANYWAYS…

if you go with Tomei Poncams or HKS stage 1 cams (256 / 264) you will not be required to upgrade your valvetrain.

these cost about $500 cdn in yuour hand right now (HKS), Tomei’s are a fair bit more.

i have RAS in my head right now, make sure you find the install on line, chris had them in backwards before i corrected him…lol

yes i will be having a sale on RAS starting next week, $75 cdn shipped.

my cams will be here tomorrow and Dan’s will be here in a couple weeks.

what do you guys run for fuel management?

are your ras stainless?

i use aem ems

PowerFC

Valve springs are only part of valve float.

The other is lifter pump up. If you have hydraulic lifters (you do) at high RPM the oil either froths up or the oil pump is pumping too much oil. The lifter turns solid when it’s full of oil and drops when it’s empty. If it never empties, your valve stays put.

If the oil froths up and aerates, it will lock up the lifter altogether.

Part of the biggest problem with the SR is the ass-ness of the econo valvetrain.

With non adjustable rocker arms, there is no way to change preload on the hydraulic lifters. This is why you have to use shims.

Over time (like 60,000km) tolerances in the valvetrain will change. Your lifter preload is out the window. Add to that you have divorced rocker arms (one rocker controls two valves) and that they’re held on by magnets … under high RPM, the rocker arm will deflect a bit, essentially being hyper extended.

That’s when valvetrains start to come apart. As soon as a gap opens up, parts are going to break.

Stiffer valve springs are a start, but throwing them at a less-than-desireable valvetrain will probably cause more problems than anything else. Heavy springs add a lot of pressure to the valvetrain and will wear out parts prematurely. You also lose horsepower, especially on a DOHC.

What you have to determine is if you’re getting early float (valve springs) or valve float (pump up/springs)

Early float (valve bounce) is when you know you need better valve springs. What happens is the valve actually floats because the spring is smashed flat before it’s supposed to. This usually happens way before high RPM, hence why it’s called “early float”. The valve actually bounces up and down.

Valve float is not something to take lightly in an interference motor. As well, because it will happen during a compression stroke, you will have terrible overlap. Bad for truuuuuubooooooooooo.

okay so how likely is it to have either of those problems with a step 1 cam? and even if it does happen, do i just need the clearances redone with new springs?

If you are responsible - it is no more likely than your current setup. Step 1’s are still considered a mild cam.

thanks guys!