can you put in a basically stock LS1 motor? I will, of course, put new valve springs in it, but i wanna know what are some good cams that can be put in with an otherwise stock valvetrain? Keep in mind, the car is pretty much a Summer Daily Driver…
suggestions/any help is really appreciated
after my heads r on…my whole engine will be basically LS6…right now i have the cam in w/ ls6 springs. its alittle dead down low but really opens up after about 3000rpms…that might be alittle too mild of an upgrade for what u r lookin for but i like it alot. after mine then the common reccomendation is prob gonna be the 224
i’m lookin at this on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-comp-cams-roller-cam-brand-new_W0QQitemZ8055548465QQcategoryZ33614QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
i dont know much about cams, but that seems to be medium sized… dunno if it’ll work with just srpings tho…
i would be willing to throw it on a dyno to get it tuned correctly - however, i don twanna spend 4 hours on the dyno… i’d spend $100 to get it tuned tho - dunno how well of a tune that’d get me tho?
if u can get that cheap thats a good cam but if not but either the TRex, Magic stick or the Cheater cam. Anything else aint worth buying unless u can get them cheap.
whats a good price?
t-rex>
what bout this? http://cgi.ebay.com/LS1-CAMSHAFT-SUIT-ALL-5-7-LITRE-COMMODORE-ETC_W0QQitemZ4630994411QQcategoryZ43807QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
edit: n/m, that’s relaly small
i was looking at that cam last night.
That cam is too small u need something between .550 to .600 anything any smaller isnt worth putting in. I dont know how much u know or understand about the head flow but I have a copy of a flow chart down on a 5.7 LS1, 5.7 LS6, 5.3, 6.0 head. U can see any cam under .550 aint worth putting in.
My tiny baby cam “only” works for me 230/224 576/563 keeps me in the 11’s with full weight and then some.
get that cam. same cam i have
thunder racing has some nice medium sized cams
227/224
230/224
224/224
i would think anything bigger than 230 range starts to get a pretty rough idle and surging, maybe some big cam owners can chime in though…
its all in the tune as for large cams
and as for lift, a cams performance isnt just lift its the combination of lift,duration and LSA to start off with.
LSA helps with how tight or broad the power band is. like nascars have 98 lsa and they have to dump thier clutches at 5k just to pull out. but their cams love to be in a tight rpm spand and thats where they mostly are. its why alot of cam recomendations recomend for a street ride 114 is normal, for street strip 112-118 for race anything thing really then, some say 112 lsa is hard to tame while some say 110 doesnt give issues. its all in the tuner i have a 112 lsa and it idles fine. i did have to do the TB drill mod and now it idles like it should.
also remember large cams will hurt vaccum for brakes. you can get away with using a vaccum canister if needed. huge duration cams help show where the rpm range is going ot be. something like 240-and up will be a high rpm range cam where as a 220 cam will be a mid range cam.
theres more to it but only you can decide what is good for you and what you have plans of it for
which one? the comp cams one on ebay???
What’s a good price for it??
Steetnstrip - I dont know didley dick about cams, so that chart means nothing to me - lol - i just know i want one to make some more poer when i rebuild this fucking oil guzzling motor
quik and everyone - you’re all talking nonsense to me… i think i understand, but as for being able to reitterate that and know what i’m talking about, no fuckin way…
Silver - you’re saying you only have the cam and some valvesprings? no other upgrades to the valvetrain??
I think that’s what i’m worried about most… i wanna go with a decently large cam, but i dont wanan get one that i need to go upgrading the whole valvetrain… dont’ have that kinda money right now…
so, i’ll be keepin an eye out… i’ll be posting up some things that i find, and see what you guys think…
but i’ll keep in mind… no lift under .550 and durations ~ 230’s/230’s
i’m sort of on a budget too… so that’s why i’m checkin out ebay … if you guys know of some places that sell cams for great deals, lemme know
you can rock what silverws6 did before with a 224/224 556/556 114 and he put down 380ish rwhp and decent torque numbers. and there are some ppl with a MS3 only seeing 360rwhp. so bigger isnt always better. its all in the tune
00blackss has the torquer V2 or whatever it is.
you need 918s, and a decent cam under .625 lift
as for oil guzzling its normal for some ls1s
also for cam you have to realize what you can and cant live with, what are true plans for car and what not.
Well, trust me, its drinking oil… theres a big cloud of smoke if you crank it and it gets above 4000 rpms, it just lets out a fog cloud of smoke… and i ran it fairly easy this week, keeping the rpms from gettin into that range all but once or twice, and she drank 2 quarts… thats rediculous…
As for now, i want the car to be fast and powerful - of course - but i’m on a somewhat limited budget…
future plans for the car are exactly why i don’t want to sell the Moser… if it werent’ for the motor needing rebuilt now, i had planned on it for this winter, but this will set me back a bit, being that the money i’ve saved so far, will have to go to this… but lets just say my plans as of 2 weeks ago were to have two of them things that let out that high pitched whistle when you get into it :dunno: wink wink 
o well tho, that will get set back another 6 months or so, and maybe forever… if i build this motor N/A to my suiting, i may just leave it like that…
any body have what a good price on that torquer V2 on ebay would be? he’s at $250 right now, but that’s with the reserve not met
used cams are good at that range anything more isnt worth it. new they are 360 or so
just toss in another motor, rebuilding will cost money. as for whistles Throttle body spacers and tornados do that for your ride lol.
as for drinking oil like that, do a compression test and see if you have a weak cylinder if not it could just be that you have bad seals and they can easily be swapped out for new ones. by looking and hearing that car i think that car was hammerd on before you bought it. hopefully you didnt pay much for it
no, i didnt pay much for it… got a really good deal… and even if i have to put 2G’s into a rebuild, i’ll still have paid what i would have for any other T/A, and i’ll end up having a really stong/fast motor, a very good rear-end that can take that power, and a great looking vehicle… so… i think i’ll still be in good shape…
a rebuild really isnt’ gonna be any more than throwing another motor in it…
if i’m lucky, and the motor doenst need machined, a rebuild will actually be very decent… if i’m unlucky and the motor needs machined, and then i need new pistons, then i’ll be looking at a little extra money than i wanted to spend… but i guess we’ll see
maybe i’ll try a compression test… i’m just too busy this week, and i dont know anyone who can do that for me, unless Domination or Jeff can… jeff’s a pretty busy man nowadays tho
check compression first!!! then see if its valve seals. sometimes you could have the wrong seals and it will cause your car to smoke very bad and go thru oil pretty well. check to see if your pcv is clogged or is working correctly.
cr test, buy a 25dollar tool and do it yourself. you screw it into the spark plug hole and crank motor over 3 times. and keep an eye on the reading across the motor. it should read about 120 average with only seeing about a 15 difference across the chart