The question in the title is no longer important, the housing has been repaired. I will update if it fails again.
So this is why my turbo died, that little piece of metal is pretty much in the way of the turbine wheel spinning.
Is it safe to have a competent machinist bore the housing to spec. thus knocking out that deformed section?
Also what local machinist can be trusted with this?
That’s a throwaway piece, or doorstop maybe.
Well David from Bullseye Power said that it should be repairable rather than just try to sell me a new one so I’m going to give it a shot. Any recommended machine shops?
buy a new one
Time for new turbz, don’t risk it.
buy a new one, also looks like you have a busted of bolt in the housing.
That will buff out… I would use it
Well it is at Raloid Tool in Mechanicville right now. They are going to grind down that piece that is sticking up. I’m hesitant to buy a new one since that piece that did that looked shaky from the get go and I think it would just happen again with a new one since I’m not the only DSM guy this has happened to I think it is best to try to fix it so it won’t happen again.
Also there is a broken bolt in it and if it proves to difficult to remove they are just going to drill and tap six new ones. Since those holes are for the three clips that hold the chra in and don’t actually mate with another part there isn’t really a problem just shifting them over.
So you aren’t replacing the chra that caused this?
I already have a new chra, and the chra didn’t cause this since it’s pushed toward the blades and the direction of rotation would have them try to push it down. Exhaust gasses pushed this razor thin piece of steel into the turbine blades.
so you got a new chra but not exhaust housing? how much are you saving?
I paid $300 for my new chra, another exhaust housing would be another $250. I do not know how much I’m saving yet since I’m waiting for Raloid to get back to me with what they think it will cost. I informed them that a new one is only $250 so not to bother if it is going to come anywhere near that.
Spend 250 now for piece of mind
Save 100 bucks and live life on the edge
Decisions, decisions
Take it from a guy who has in the past tried to save a few bucks here and there and had it bite him in the ass. Saving 100 bucks is not worth risking destroying something, especially when it costs more then what your saving.
I already posted that buying a new one isn’t necessarily piece of mind since I’m not the only person this happens to with this housing and I thought it looked sketchy from the get go.
Also Bullseye Power the company that sells them recommended I repair it rather than sell me a new one.
Got to get that broken bolt out too.
Also already discussed in this thread. They are going to try to pull it and if they can’t they are just going to make six new holes offset from the original pattern.
Ok seriously why did you make this thread? Dont ask for everyones opinion if you arent going to listen, pretty much everyone said get a new and you are insistent on fixing this one. This thread is pointless…lock 1.
Well, I made this thread last night when the part came off the car and I first saw it was damaged.
This morning I got a hold of the manufacturer. Then in post three I stated that David from Bullseye Power (my bad for not highlighting that they are the manufacturers of this part I forgot that not everyone here is into DSMs) stated that I should repair it over buying a new one.
I appreciate everyone’s advice but seriously for so many people to contradict the manufacturer who told me not to buy another one is kind of ridiculous.
Also it is frustrating when people post things without reading the thread such as AMD in post #15 when broken bolts were clearly discussed in posts #6 and #8.
My main goal for posting this here was to find a machinist that had the skills to do this since I am new to the area and nobody could even offer a lead on that so I was left to google searching and being recommended from one shop to another over the phone.
I mean I guess the thread could be considered resolved pending the repaired part actually working since the manufacturer doesn’t want to sell me a new one.
The question you need to be asking yourself is WHY the volute failed like that and why you would ever trust putting it back on a refurbished chra.
<---- coming form a guy that used to rebuild turbos and still owns VSR.
My guess is that it failed like that because it is an inferior product as I already stated I’m not the only person this has happened to with this housing. That part is just to thin from the get go, I wish I had taken clear pictures of it before it was installed but it looked wavy brand new.
And as for a refurbished chra that is plain cost issues as a new chra from Holset is $1200-$1800 and I got a freshly rebuilt and balanced one from a reputable turbo shop back in CA for $300.
If I had the money I would be doing my entire turbo setup over again without any of the Holset crap and the BEP wedge a Holset on a mitsu manifold housing. But really this is what my car has right now and I need to get the car running so I can drive it to work and still leave enough money in my bank account for the family to eat and for rent to be paid.
I want to get a divided T4 setup and run a Borg Warner EFR turbo on the car but that $4-5k will have to wait for later.
