Car runs like poo

Yeaaah… Despite the fuse being in now, and most of the problems being gone, my car still… sucks…
My idle blows, the car doesn’t stall, but it goes as low as 500rpm. Also, there’s a complete and utter lack of high end power. It feels “normal” in the lower end (3500rpm) and after that it just… sucks. It’s not as bad as when the fuse was blown, b/c then it wouldn’t even go past that, but now it just doesn’t really do anything.
My theory:
Ignition is insufficient. I’m thinking of changing my plugs, changing the wires, and investing in a grounding kit.

Any thoughts?

Check your alternator and sensors. My car was kinda like that last 2 weeks. It would dip as low as 100 if im’ at a stop light and power loss at 3000rpm. My mechanic changed the sparkplugs, fuel filter and check my air intake. It worked well for a bit then it went back to being shitty. So the next time he changed my alternator, belt and oil 10w30 I think. Been working fine ever since. As for grounding, try this DIY.

240sxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77620

haven’t tried it myself but I will once I get more time.

Maan… I hope it’s not the freakin alternator. That thing looks like such a PITA to get at. I just changed my oil too, so can’t be oil related.

Runny Poo pr solid poo??

I am going to assume runny

its not that bad, good advice though, take the time to take out ur fan shroud and maybe ur clutch fan, that takes like what 10 minutes, then its real easy to get to ur alternator, i did mine twice, the secand time it didnt take me long at all

Easier to access if the car is on stands. If you’re going to change the alternator, might aswell upgrade to a more powerful one.

Inspect the entire charging system and then see where you’re at i’d say…

Remember that if it is indeed the alternator (if you nuked it and are running off the battery for example), continuing to drive could leave you stranded!

Good luck.

EDIT: Also keep your eyes peeled for overly dimming lights as your driving, applying throttle, turning up the headlights and what not. This often indicates a pending alternator death!

I doubt it’d be the alternator/charging system though, since I drive the car a lot, and I listen to my stereo quite loudly all the time. I have an amp and sub, so I think the battery would have shown signs of being depleted by now.

I’m going to suggest, buying some throttle body cleaner taking off your air intake up to the IAC sensor spray it all up and clean it up. And that might get rid of your low idles. (Some black smoke will come out of exhaust, when u turn your car on at first, if u spray too much) As for driving shyt after 3500, I donno, maybe Maf issues, (doubt it though)

Agreed, why not spend an afternoon doing the easy stuff. Like checking/cleaning grounds and pulling apart the intake to check and clean it all (as well as IACV perhaps)…just generally “going over” everything. Perhaps reset ECU as well, might be advisable…because this type of problem could potentially be a bugger to find…so start simple.

Any strange sounds when it’s accelerating or just idling?

I cleaned my throttle body recently, but I just picked up the grounding stuff, so I’ll do that tonight and see how it goes.

Okaaay. Four new plugs in, and ground wires:
Neg to intake manny
Neg to valvecover
Neg to distributor

Car now has waaay more balls than before, and the higher rpm power improved. I still think it’s missing something, but it could be just my imagination.
The idle dip is much better now, it doesn’t dip anywhere near as low as before, but it’s still there. Overall, if you’re having problems with your car being a shitbox, change ur plugs, and run ground wires. It may not fix everything, but it’ll help BIG time. My butt dyno tells me I got atleast 5whp out of this. Consider there is no power to be “gained” though, only “un-lost”, so only expect gains if your car is running worse than it’s supposed to.

If you going to clean the idle air control valve do it right. Buy the gaskets, pull it off. Pull it apart and clean it up good with throttle body cleaner and then put it back on. To much people on this board half ass shit.

quick questino which grounding kit and where’d you get it? I might be interested in those too. Cuz seems like my interior lights dim a bit if i put on the rear defogger on.

Wasn’t a grounding kit. I had 4 gauge wire left over, and I bought terminals.
As to the IACV, I’m not sure if I still have it. It’s either that or the EGR that I removed :smiley:

Update: There’s something screwy with my alternator for sure. There is a major difference between how the car runs with the stereo ON and the stereo OFF. Also, my idle dips when I press on the brake, and goes back up when I let go of it. I’m gonna try grounding my alternator today (or tommorow) and if not I’ll change it.

voltmeter, try testing the voltage with idle,with idle/stereo, with idle/stereo/blower motor on full…

unless you have a volt guage

What points should I be testing voltage across? + and - on battery?

Ooookaay! I added a ground from the negative terminal to the alternator, and one to the strut tower. Car runs like NEW now. There’s absolutely no idle dip, it idles at about 900-950 range, and there’s waaaay more power all throughout the powerband. It feels way more ballsy in every gear, at every rpm.

If anyone is having problems like this, run ground wires!! And run them to friggin everything, don’t omit a single thing on your car. I stopped just short of grounding each individual spark plug!
Total grounds:
Engine block
Intake manifold
Valve cover
Distributor
Alternator
Strut Towers

Now that I know the difference the electrical system can make, I’m gonna buy a MDS 6AL and a SS Blaster Coil first cash I get. Better fuel economy + more balls, you can’t go wrong.