running temperature and such, i give it a little gas, car runs normally.
I hit the throttle (floor it)
car actually SLOWS down. i have no power whatsoever.
if im giving it half throttle, i accelerate, but not like i should… not even close.
so NO pull at all with full throttle, half throttle, very little pull.
same issue in every gear, but its obviously way more noticeable in the first 3 gears.
at first this problem seemed to come and go, now its consistant.
another thing… im not positive about this, but i feel like… the blower speeds up and slows down, and i kinda felt like when the blower was slower, my car was slower, when the blower was blowing at its peak, i didnt have this issue of no power.
the blower will blow faster with higher rpms because your alternator output amperage increases. idle not as high.
as for your bigger issue…check your MAF. there is also valves inside the intake…can;t remember their exact name. if they do not open, well it’s basically like a throttle plate (butterfly).
other than that it’s kind of difficult to diagnose with just that information.
ya i would check either the maf or even your ecu. do your rpms still rise normally or do they got cut off at a certain point? a bit more info would be useful. im sure there are others on here with some more ideas.
The rpms don’t cut OFF they just stop increasing quickly. It happens around 3500.
My boy IrO switched our mafs around, and with his, at full throttle I was limited to 3500 as in it would not go higher.
After that little experiment I put my maf back, then my hids started to flicker, one went from blue/white to yellow, then shut off. I turned the car off, started it up again, started driving home then all my interior lights dimmed, my head unit started turning on and off, then all the lights practically went out, my car started sputtering, stopped driving smoothly, and wouldn’t rev past 1600. Going very slowly I practically got home at a crawl, parked up, went inside, and now here I am, crying, Typing this post from my iPhone.
At this point im defintly leaning towards alternator for you good sir, or an alternator wiring issue. (And it seems I need a new Maf…?) Does an alternator sometimes kick in and work and sometimes not? Or does it always just stop or slowly stop? We tested the battery voltage and it was at 11.8 when car was off, 11.7 when it was on.
I haven’t swapped sr, the battery light hasn’t turned on but after checking the battery like iro said the volt meter read 11.88 when the car was off, but dipped to 11.07 when the car was turned on. I charged my battery overnight so I could get to work today, the charge was like 10% when I started and like 50% when I unplugged it… So I suppose the alternator isn’t charging the bitch, so, my issue is seemingly an alternator problem.
EDIT: I say broken wire because you say it’s not charging, but the battery light does not come on? now you could have a blown bulb in your cluster, or a broken wire to the diode on your alt. bad ground etc etc.
Fig. 3 Grounding ``F’’ Terminal At Rear Of Alternator
Turn ignition switch to on position and note charge lamp.
If lamp lights proceed to step 7. If lamp does not light proceed to next step.
Disconnect two wire connectors labeled S and L, then using a jumper wire connect L terminal to a suitable ground.
If charge lamp lights proceed to next step. If lamp does not light the bulb in the instrument cluster is defective. Steps 5 and 6 do not apply to models equipped with Mitsubishi alternators. On these models, if charge lamp lights, the internal regulator or some other internal component is defective and the alternator must be removed for bench testing.
Reconnect two wire connectors, then insert a short stiff length of wire through the access hole at back of alternator until it contacts outer brush. Ground other end of wire to alternator case which will actually ground the F terminal internally, Fig. 3.
If charge lamp remains lit, the internal regulator is defective and will require disassembly of the alternator for repair. If lamp goes out, some other internal component is defective therefore alternator must be removed for bench testing.
With engine idling if charge lamp is lit, a defective internal component exists in the alternator and requires removal for bench testing. If the charge lamp is not lit, proceed to next step.
With engine speed at 1500 RPM and headlights on, if charge lamp is not lit proceed to next step. If lamp is lit dimly, let engine idle and measure voltage across B and L terminals. If voltage is more than .5 volts a defective internal component exists in the alternator and requires removal for bench testing. If voltage is less than .5 volts, alternator if considered to be in satisfactory condition.
With engine at 1500 RPM measure voltage at B terminal, making sure S terminal is properly connected.
If voltage reading is above 15.5 volts, the internal regulator is faulty and requires removal of alternator for replacement. If voltage reading is between 13 and 15 volts proceed to next step.
With engine idling and headlights on, if charge lamp is lit a defective internal component exists in the alternator and requires removal for bench testing. If charge lamp is not lit, alternator is considered to be in satisfactory condition.
now that i think about it i cant ever remember seeing the battery light come on…
im gonna try step 4 and see if the bulb lights up…
another thing tho… My ummm… the clock in my cluster, turns completely off when any of my doors are open. when i close the door, the clock comes back on, 1:00.
also, my head unit settings reset everytime i turn off the ignition and such.
i know in a corolla i used to have the head unit resetted itself all the time, and that was due to a short circuit… could that be related to my current problem?
definately sounds like you’ve got something electrical effecting you. check wires, connections, and custom connections that may have been made.
i suggested checking the ecu because when i swapped dashes in my last s13 a wire wasn’t crimped good with another and came lose. after that i wasn’t sure if anything had happened or not until i turned on the car. idled fine but if i gave it a decent amount of throttle it would sputter hard and if i gave it throttle slowly it would rise fine with minimal rpm loss. slow throttle, rpms cut at about 3500rpms. hard throttle, rpms bounce (due to sputter) from 1000-2500rpms. re did the wire properly and the problem was fixed.
just wanted to share that incase it helps you at all. your problem sounds similar in some ways to mine last year. it was only a daily thing cause it was just during the swapping of the dashes. dash maybe came in contact with a wire and lost connection. anyways, just throwing ideas out there. hope it helps.