You do NOT have to recirc to prevent stalling issues on the SR. If everything is setup PROPERLY you won’t have any issues. If you just installed an FMIC and BOV and its going all nutty after boost then the BOV is to lose. Figure out how to adjust it and tighten it down. Simple as that. If you get compressor surge at 2-3 PSI its not a big deal and won’t really hurt anything.
You don’t have to, but the motor runs a lot better on a recirc’d BOV when using a MAF based system.
sorry dude, not true.
venting metered air is a big no no. plugs will be fouled, lubrication will vanish for a brief moment, your ECU will scream a loud WTF and maybe stall or maybe not.
as I already mentioned, just because your setup doesnt’ stall out doesn’t someone else’s won’t.
and compressor surge is bad period; call me anal, but I prefer to call it proper. I’m driving a car not hunting turkeys.
:shock:
Hurricane is right, you dont NEED to recirc to have the car run properly. Sure it will run better recirced, but a turbo engine can run fine with open to atmosphere bov.
I still say either his bov is too loose, they didnt plug up the diverter valves properly, or theres a vac leak. Check to see if your maf is plugged in properly? clean the maf?
The story sounds like they messed somtehing up when doing that install.
Compressor surge is only bad when its at a higher psi. Most stock cars will surge at 2-3 psi, its no big deal and isnt loud at all.
[quote=“mikeness”]
:shock:
Hurricane is right, you dont NEED to recirc to have the car run properly. Sure it will run better recirced, but a turbo engine can run fine with open to atmosphere bov.
I still say either his bov is too loose, they didnt plug up the diverter valves properly, or theres a vac leak. Check to see if your maf is plugged in properly? clean the maf?
The story sounds like they messed somtehing up when doing that install.
Compressor surge is only bad when its at a higher psi. Most stock cars will surge at 2-3 psi, its no big deal and isnt loud at all.[/quote]
The above is True.
A lot of guys will want to Vent to the athmosephere and forget all about the metered air.
More techy nissan guys, help me out here.
I come from DSMs and when I vented using a SAFC, there is an option to help compensate for that loss of air. I know that option does not work very well for DSM’s but does it work for the trusty NISSANS??
On another note, I can’t specify enough how important it is to do a boost test
http://vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Make sure you can hold all your pressure or else the turbo is useless.
Especially important to run it after you’ve been tinkering
Cheers
venting metered air is a big no no. plugs will be fouled, lubrication will vanish for a brief moment, your ECU will scream a loud WTF and maybe stall or maybe not.
as I already mentioned, just because your setup doesnt’ stall out doesn’t someone else’s won’t.
and compressor surge is bad period; call me anal, but I prefer to call it proper. I’m driving a car not hunting turkeys.
Please explain to me how venting AIR with make lubrication vanish. Any WELL running SR will NOT stall out on a vented BOV. If the car goes rich for .2 seconds I can’t see it hurting anything.
Now back on topic…
well, when you’re pumping gas for 5+psi and all of a sudden the air drops to -20psi without correction you’re going run rich as hell as we all konw what happens when you do.
and I don’t know how many times I have to say this; different setup behave differently. The motor is a small part of the equation.
not trying to get into a pissing match here, all am I saying is that with a draw through setup the proper way is to recirculate. yes, you can vent if you like and make adjustments to overcome some of the pitfalls of venting with draw through, but that’s not the way it was intended to be setup.
if you want to vent, go blow through, it’s simple.
thx for the info guys
i tried this…i disconnected the bov, so it doesn’t vent air anymore, except it just back spins turbo and come out from the intake, but, it would never stall. (i just disconected the vacuum line that actuates bov) bov is still on the hot pipe.
i think its the bov thats causing all the trouble, could it be a leak? or a air flow problem?
hey hoggie,
i had the same issue with my sr a while back. With a XS BOV it would boost fine and all but the second i would shift or let off the gas the rpms would drop and all the lights came on. We found the problem was the BOV was staying open too long after it vented to atmosphere, causing a rich mixture for a split second, and causing a massive vaccum leak. we fixed the problem by tightening down the spring on the BOV. at first we thought it solved the issue, but we had to go further and stack the BOV spring with Washers to get it tight enough so the BOV would close after it vented. hope this helps.
Also try working backwards if it ran fine on the factory re-cerculation valve try putting it back on if possible, just to trouble shoot and ID ur problem
Cheers
chris
so, tighten your bov (like various other people already said)
lol wel…yes 
i figured i would be a bit more technical meh in a nut shell yes tighten ur BOV
what bov are you using?
if its a knockoff bov, that could be the problem. they are known to leak
ya, it was one of these cheap bov thing from ebay
and it was stuck open, so keep leting ALOT of air out, so it wouldn’t idle,
now we got a real hks bov, solved 1 problem
the other problem is, the vacuum line connected to the bov is a split from the boost guage line, when throttle is off, always stay in vacuum and keep the bov open, so car still wouldn;t idle!!!
where is the right place to taP the bov vacuum line off of?
thxxx
What HKS BOV do you have?
hks super sequential blow off (says on the box…lol)
This should not happen on a SSQV. The SSQV is a pull-type relief valve. It is only actuacted by changes in vaccuum pressure and STAYS CLOSED under all other scenarios…including idle vaccuum
umm…ok thx for the info
ok, first time after i install the bov, car started, and i rev the motor just a bit not high rev…
once off throttle, i felt air comign out, then all of a sudden it closes, and no air comes out, only happened once,
is there a problem with the bov?