i’ve just installed a fmic and bov, once i boost my car to around 5 psi it just turns off any1 know why? does the safc need to be tune to the right setting ? thanks in advance
It just flat out dies? It dies while you are under throttle?
flat out … i started the car and boosted it again …same result
Any specific RPM? Gear?
Always 5psi?
What motor? KAT/SR20DET/CAT/etc.
sr20det
@ 5psi … i guess when i try boosting it pass 5 psi
not sure about the rpm
So you’ll be driving normally and it drives normal.
And then you floor it and while you have car floored, your boost gauge
approaches 5psi.
And roughly near 5psi (while your foot still on gas) the car shuts off?
exactly my point :oops: [ does it have anything to do the with safc ] i dunno much about 240s and sr20s. i’m noob :shock:
Definitely sounds like something in your wiring is causing the system to
kill ignition. Or maybe fuel.
I’d start at those two spots first.
See if you can remove the SAFC and drive the car. See how it runs.
hm… but i didn’t do any wiring. i just installed the fmic and bov … or does that affect it ? :roll:
So it’s been running fine and dandy all this time and since instaling the
FMIC and BOV, now all of a sudden at 5psi it just shuts off? Weird.
my friend told me its the safc cuz i use to have a stock intercooler with a diverted valve… what he told me is that after i boost the car to a certain amount of psi, the compressed air (?) goes to the diverted valve back to the intake.? :roll: (no idea). But after installin the new bov all the air is let out through the bov which makes the engine assume that theres not enough airflow? i don’t know what i’m talking about but its something like this :oops:
Gonad :
And roughly near 5psi (while your foot still on gas) the car shuts off?
i misread this … the car shuts off when i let go of the throttle
sry about the double posting x.x
Lol, that changes everything… 
I’d suggest going over your couplers and piping, and perhaps playing with the BOV’s adjustment if applicable, probably tightening it down (it may be WAY too loose). Also double check vac line to BOV. Make sure everything is tight.
If you’ve got a boost/vac gauge, see if your vacuum reading on idle is normal (around 18-22 hG or so probably).
You also may want to alter your S-AFC’s “decel” settings to help prevent open-BOV stalling, from what i’ve heard.
Good luck.
yep basically the mass air flow sensor thiinks there is X air for X fuel, but your BOV vented to atmosphere leaves X fuel with Y air,
^not enough air for the fuel to burn properly and it bogs out and dies…
any1 have any tips on how i should tune the safc. cuz i don’t know how to use it :shock:
Sounds like your bov is a bit loose, or maybe you have a vac leak.
Tighten the bov, and if that doesnt work check for vac leaks.
You shouldnt really have to use the safc to make the car run.
:run:
That’s pretty much how I feel right now reading the rest of your posts. Jeeze.
i went to do a little tightening and tried boosting it, it boosts fine but it won’t idle after the bov makes the chirp sound
hi guys
im cdfu’s friend his talking about
um. basically, b4 we install the fmic and bov, the boost seting was at 9-10 psi, with all the stock pipings, intercooler, diverter valve.
doesn’t seem like its leaking from anywhere when i drove it, double check everything, and its all tight, i only boosted it to around 5psi, didn’t wanna go more, cause i worried that something would happen.
um…basically, i test drive it, boosted fine, if i keep it in gear, engine still run with the car’s speed, such as shifting after boost from previous gear. jsut that once i let off the throttle, rpm drops to 0,
just that my assumption that the s-afc has to be tuned, i know a bit, duno in details, if anyone knows how to tune the s-afc that can help us out.
thxxxx
stalling after a pull / shitty idle / shitty mileage is a fact of life when venting with a draw through MAF setup, deal with it.
or, you can do the following
step 1: adjust the BOV (make it tighter). you will run into compressor surge if you go do tight (you don’t want that), this may or may not help, every car is different and so is every BOV (where your flange is welded, pipe diameter/length, blahb alh blahblahb lahblha hbal)
step 2: go with a blow through setup (ie, put the MAF AFTER the turbo).
not sure if you can do this with the stock MAF tough, I don’t know if it’s a hotwire or karmen vortex.
from what I know the SAFC doesn’t have a fix for improper BOV piping, so don’t bother with it.
if all else fails, hopefully your BOV has a recir kit and you’ll just have to recirulate the air. you won’t get the awesome PSSSSTT but atleast you won’t be stalling.