BOV Troubleshooting HELP!

Hey guys, i just installed a Blitz BOV on a custom hotpipe with welded flange. I took it for a boot and it would always stall when coming to a stop ( foot-in clutch and braking)…I was told that this would happen because i am running non-recirculating and i was told that recirculating would solve this problem but i dont want that. I know of many vehicle’s running an atmospheric setup and it works fine…So, i was wondering how to go about fixing this problem…i asked a friend and he said to increase the idle (don’t know how that could fix it) …so if you guys could PLEASE help me ASAP because i know there is a solution to this…Thanks to everyone in advance!

i think one of the only ways you can fix this is to buy some type of ems…
you have to get the car to run off of map’s instead of maf. someone can feel free to correct that but im sure thats rite.

ems
hks eids
circulate the bov

thats all i can think of for now

whats HKS eids?..would adjusting idle help?

It’s not the idle you have to adjust, it’s when you come off throttle, all the air that comes out of your BOV was metered by the MAF but now goes into the atmosphere, so you go uber rich and stall. If you stall just coming to a stop, you probably have a leaky BOV and it’s venting all the time. You can get an Apex’i AFC Neo and adjust the decel settings so it doesn’t stall anymore. BTW, one of my friends is selling one on 613driftwerks.com (free plug!), so PM me if you want more details.

search the hks eids

its designed to aid in exactly what is causing your problems

there is a thread about this on gtrc at this very moment. there not very expensive either. just gotta find one for an sr20 or whatever motor you have,. if your ka-t then nm.

theres always a few floating around on ebay

eh man ive been running a hks bov and ya it almost stall when i do that but doesnt stall its goes down to like 600 700 but doesnt stall what u have to worry about is the vacuum being to great when letting of the throtle and pressing the brake cuz that starves the engine even more from taking vacuum so the bov could be staying open and this was a problem when i got a fake hks bov

and im running stock maf on sr20 a good idea would be to look at the bov and rev the motor and see what the piston or w/e it is … just throwing ideas out there

could i somehow repair a leaky bov if that is the problem? i only stall when coming to a stop. I know why im stalling but i don’t know how to fix it without buying all these gadjets…anyone have/had a similar problem and fixed it without buying anything???

is it the ddbov? if so isn’t there an adjusting nut on the top? try tightening down the screw. try putting your hand over the bov opening when idling the car. can you feel air coming out? rev it up a bit and see if any air comes out when you release the throttle. you may have it too loose. the bov should release around 0 psi. i had the same problem with my greddy. after i adjusted it it hasn’t stalled in 3 years.

yea it does have an adjustment screw…we’ve played with that but nothing really dramatic has happend…ill try messing with it some more

does it idle low or rough normally? sounds like the BOV is staying open for too long. it may be open at idle. a way to check would be to cover the BOV vent with your hand when the car is idling, if the idle changes when you cover it then the BOV is leaking.

Fuck adjustment screws. SSQV ftw.

But seriously, check for vac leaks, I run vented and have never had my car stall on decel, or even drop way below idle for that matter… Car idles around 750-800RPM…

Also, make sure your throttle plate is closing completely when you let off the throttle. I had an idle/vac issue, looked through EVERYTHING, turned out my throttle plate wasn’t closing completely… Could have happened to you.

Hmmm…me and a buddy are going to be looking at it tonight so we will try all of these things…Keep the suggestions coming!..oh and the car idles fine once i start up…it has no problem staying at idle and it isn’t rough at all…its just when i come to decelerate and the rpm’s drop…they don’t stop dropping…would having the diverter valve assembly still in place have any effect? we disconnected the hose that goes back to the intake but still stalls…i don’t know whats goin on…more suggestions PLEASE

I’m assuming you capped off the recirc piping? And yeah, that adjustment nut should adjust how much pressure it takes to get the BOV to go off. Try taking the BOV apart and cleaning it, there may just be some crud ion there that won’t let it close properly, and lube it up. Both my Blitz DD’s on my GTR were stuck closed after storage for the winter, just took them off and cleaned them, sprayed some WD40 on 'em and they work better than last year now!

Yes, I capped off the recirc piping. I WD’d them before i put them on. This is driving me crazy. Even though i disconnected the recirc and plugged the whole, you guys think it would be better to disassemble the diverter valve assembly? i have a feeling that once it starts creating boost…the diverter opens which in turn doesn’t allow me to pass 4000 rpm…

i think you can solve it to with the “apexi acvr”

are you actually turning in the screw when you loosen off the nut??? sorry dont mean to be rude about it… that screw on top will adjust how much pressure is applied to the piston, keeping it closed. if so try taking it apart and see whats going on. maybe you have a broken spring, or the seals are gone. is this new or used?

minimum, i know what the screw is for and how to use it…I have everything working now except the fact that it stalls when i depress the clutch to come to a stop…does anyone know any tricks up their sleeve to solve this without buying expensive equipment…i adjusted the idle screw to idle a bit higher but that didn’t really affect it much…any more ideas?

Maybe it isn’t closing properly; if possible, try and take a look at your BOV right after it happens, don’t restart the car or anything, just check and see if it is closed.
Otherwise : boost leak (use slightly soapy water on your plumbing), big injectors not tuned properly or even just leaky injectors, fouled plugs that don’t have enough spark… There’s lots of things that could be wrong.