bump
ok so i just took it for another ride and being very observant, i noticed a few things. First of all, at start up (engine hasn’t been started for 2 days), the idle first goes waaay high to about 2000 rpm then slowly drops to about 900-1000 rpm then jumps way up to 1800 for like 3-4 seconds then drops down…everytime slowly decreasing the gap and then steadies off at 850 rpm. Second of all, as i drive in first gear, i hear very slight bogging coming out of the exahust forcing the car to be a little jumpy. When coming to a stop(clutch in at almost any rpm) the rpms will drop waaayy down then jump up then go way down, then eventually stabilize itself after a few fluctuations. I’ve been researching for days, and i’ve found soo many solutions that worked for different people. Once again, i know recirculating the bov will solve this but i want to run atmospheric. Someone PLEASE HELP ME!! i am extremely happy with all the responses that i’ve got but now that i have a much more detailed list of symptoms maybe it will clarify the problem a bit more. Please donate 5 minutes of your time to a fellow 240 owner.
Thank you all in advance.
Just a thought, try recirc’ing your BOV for now, just to see if it solves your issue. If it does, you can cross some of the “solutions” off the list. If it doesn’t, you might have a different problem.
That doesn’t sound like a bad idea…I thought i’d bring up these symptoms because someone else could of had the same exact problems and would be able to pin point the problem…but for now, i guess i can try that out…could i just find some flex tubing and clamp it from bov to where the diverter valve used to hook up?
That should do it. Like I said, just as a temporary. If your symptoms go away, it’s definitely the problem, and you can try more specific solutions. If it doesn’t fix your problem, you know you have other issues. And if you just want the BOV sound from venting to atmo, put your recirc point right close to the filter, and get a nice big cone filter.
I’m running a fuckoff huge K&N cone, and you can hear the air being sucked in at idle… I’m sure you’d hear the BOV …even recirc’d.
(mine is vented to atmo, and I don’t have any problems with idle dipping or dropping on decel… so I think you have other problems… vac or boost leak most likely, maybe pooched O2 sensor?)
did you buy this bov used?? sounds like it is missing one of the springs. happened to me with a greddy type s…had all the same symptons as you…turned out the previous owner had removed one of springs inside the bov.
lol really?? how many springs are there supposed to be on a Blitz DD???..im gunna try to figure out how to recirc it tonight…the problem is that there is no recirculating kit for it…i know i dont neccesarily need one and that i can fab one up quick time but the problem is my bov looks like the one on the left…<http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/subaru/BLZ70086.jpg> …how could i get tubing to seal around an opening like that???
duct tape fixes everything.
It’s only temporary anyway.
HA! gotta love duct tape and zip ties…the most useful pieces of hardware in 240 history…anyways back on topic…i guess i can try that out tonight…i’ll let you guys know what happens…keep the ideas coming guys…i really appreciate your help
i have NEVER EVER used duct tape on any of my 240s
zip ties are another story
Neither have I pantaloons, never on my 240 but i know alot of people that do. I will become one of them tonight if i can’t find any other way to seal piping on this bov…have any other suggestions?
try moving your maf ferther away from you turbo inlet. I had this exact problem on my kat and this solved it.
Not to throw things off, but what exactly are the benifits, other than a louder release, of having a BOV vented to the atmosphere instead of it being recirculated?
That’s pretty much it… Look at all the D1 cars, they’re recirc’d… The louder “bov noise” and “cool backfire” are about it, as far as I know. In fact, recirc’d is supposed to help with quicker spool, and it keeps you from going rich on throttle release, hence eliminating the “cool backfire”
sorry for the stupid comment… but if your rpm is going up and down, sounds like you have a vacume leak or intercooler leak. the ecu is trying to compensate for the air thats getting in without being metered by the maf. i once had a vacume line touch my exhaust manifold and melt a hole in it that i didn’t notice for a while. even old dryed out lines will leak through small cracks. if everything is good try unhooking your battery for a while to reset the ecu.
hmm…interesting…i think all my lines are good…but today im putting back my stock piping and everything until i get an S-AFC 2 which has a feature that will decelerate the maf signal once i release the gas instead of a sudden change which causes this whole problem…what do you guys think about that?
I’m running an SAFC, but I’m not sure what feature you’re talking about… You mean the fact that it’ll hold high and low throttle maps?
Both of mine are set to zero correction, and mine ran fine before the SAFC-2 was installed… Sounds like you’re trying to put a bandaid on a situation. I would recommend trying to fix it before the SAFC goes on and complicates matters…
its the Deceleration Air Flow Correction function
http://store.evostore.com/apexisafc2.html