i took my car for a drive today and it drove great but it died out as soon as i pushed the clutch in. idles fine in neutral. im assuming this is because my bov isnt recirculated. its a bings knockoff type-s. would this make sense or is it something else? i’d like to keep it atmospheric if possible.
Well I’m not sure if the SR has this but I know the KA does. I adjusted the idle screw and turned my idle rpm’s up to help solve this problem. So instead of idling at 750ish I now idle at 900-950ish.
I have’nt had ONE stall out yet and my bov is not set to recirculate.
So find out and if you can do adjust it then just turn it up a little more to around where I’m set at. Turning right moves the rpm up and left turns the rpm down on my motor. Just play around and you’ll get. DO NOT recirc the bov man, there’s nothing more sweeter then listening to that sound!
I had a tiny idle problem when I would push in the clutch so I tightend up the BOV quite a bit and it fixed the problem. But I still get a crazy rich spike, shitting feeling between shifts and the odd idle problem on hard stop
Just re-circulate it now and you’ll enjoy how much better the car will run
I had a tiny idle problem when I would push in the clutch so I tightend up the BOV quite a bit and it fixed the problem. But I still get a crazy rich spike, shitting feeling between shifts and the odd idle problem on hard stop
Just re-circulate it now and you’ll enjoy how much better the car will run[/quote]
SR should idle @ 800rpm… if you need to increase your idle a 150rpm to keep it from dying then I think you have other problems
If your BOV is set “to loose” it will more or so want to stall but wont… it usually just causes the idle to dip from say 800 to 600 and then takes a second to creep back up to 800… in some cases if if hits 600/lower REAL quick “like doing 100km and then you push the clutch in and lock em up” it may stall
As for not re-circulating it so you can hear it… you can still hear it “just not as loud” in other cases 50% of BOV arent loud anyway “like my blitz unit” and its hard enough to hear so why not just re-circ it and benifit from having a better running motor, better idle, better inbetween shifts and no more rich spike
those bov’s leak. bing has even acknowledged this. something happened with a large batch of them.just take off the little hex bolts around the purple part and rtv around the seal and bolt it back together lt it dry and then try.
heres and interesting fact, some SR’s will in fact run perfect with no recirulated BOV others wont, i have seen it. I run a Blitz SS my car will stall and run like crap, my friends SR runs perfect with his greddy type S. I solved my issue by getting an HKS EIDS-these little piggy backs are used to fix this exact issue, you can also use an Apex’i SAFC and set the decel function but it does not work as good-I have tried both. Also if you want I know where you can get an EIDS for a good discount
well thats what I thought but that was thrown out when another guy with a red top ran the same Greddy type S my friend ran and his car stummbled when it was not recirculated. My friend has a theory that some Ecus have “extras” and some dont. Which i dont find to be too far fetched I mean in the US some cars weather SE or not had LSDs some didnt and there are various little things that seem to be different for no reason other than just cause every car seems to have its pluses and minuses. maybe its dumb maybe its not