we need more people like you on here.
I usually don’t like these cavaliers, but good work man. This will make a decent sleeper.
Thanks man, I really do get that all the time and to be honest it’s very understandable as most Cavy/Sunfires out there are just :roflpicard:
The exterior of the car really has nothing done to it beside a CF hood, tint, and blacked out lights. The car is lowered and has rims but has and never will have a body kit or anything of that sort.
there is techically no 110%, but its stating by its calculations that the injector is that,
it is basically open 100% at wot
most tuners recommend upgrading to a bigger injector when you reach 80% as the injector is no longer reliable
and his new injectors are the best thing since sliced bread lol, can handle 100psi base pressure and perform like a 1200-1400cc injector at those pressures
nice to see you put your updates on here jimmy
Love the build. Still miss my Z24, be sure to keep posting pics I would like to see the end result.
Thanks Brian, and thanks for the hookup on the injectors 
They were a tad pricey but everything I have heard and read lead me to beleive they are definately worth it.
My car has trouble handling injectors this large at low rpm cruising and on decelleration and these are supposed to be much more tunable so it was worth a shot. Like I said the car honestly should have a stand alone on it but I just can’t do it…
I have tonnnns more pics from the original build (when I wasn’t a member here 
) but didn’t wanna bore you guys too much. The car was out and about last season and I was very satisfied with it for the most part but I just decided to upgrade and fix a few things for 09.
Not possible, no matter how many different ways someone has tried to explain it. The only way to “get” more than 100% duty cycle is if it is determined through a calculation. There is not more time open than time allowed. Unless you start bending light…
The high impedence (saturated switch) injectors you’ve just added are driven by the injector driver with a square wave. The low impedence (peak and hold) injectors you got rid of are driven by a spike in current to quickly open the injector, and drops it to keep the injector open. Either way, the signal cannot be longer than the period for which the driver is designed. Therefore, 100% is the max. If the injector does not close in this period, the duty cycle is not greater than 100% because the valve never closes, just keeping it at 100% duty cycle.
If you are trying to correlate stated flow versus actual flow from your injectors, ensure pressure and duty cycle (not 100% either) is constant. If you increase one of these factors, you will get more flow. So 10% more fuel pressure will give you sqrt(dP) times more flow for the same injector. Not that you ran more than 100% duty cycle.
Short bursts over 80% are not a problem for an injector as the fuel will help to cool the coil inside the injector. Avoid sustained runs over 90% to keep the injectors and driver(s) cool.
Interesting information about the duty cycle there that I did not know, thanks man.
I knew about the low and high imp factors. My only reason originally for running low imp was the larger number of options. I did this a few years ago though when the car used to be s/c’ed and I was running 450cc injectors… at that size the ecu handled them well but when stepping up to the 750’s it just hated them at idle, low speed, and on decell.
Mixing and matching drivers and injectors won’t effect WOT or even medium throttle all that much (short term). But idle will really be effected because the peak and hold injectors don’t see that initial spike to move the valve off the seat quickly. This usually leads to rough idle or stumble just off idle.
Yup^^^ the car was not great low speed and the DFCO was pretty bad. I was running resistors to accomodate for the low imp injectors and I was able to tune it in decent but I still did not love it. Around town cruising, highway, and WOT was awesome but stop and go I could just never get perfect… hopefully these new injectors will help.
I’d straighten those compressor wheel blades as best as possible or get the the turbo rebuilt with a new wheel.
Also why did someone weld the a patch into the manifold? Did someone screw up the wastegate orientation?
The wastegate orientation was changed to the opposite side to give me more room. If you look at my engine pic you can see my water pump sits on that side and although I could technically run it there the increased heat might lead to the water pump going bad pre-maturely and i’m just putting a new one in with these upgrades. I’ll grab some pics of the inside of the manifold at some point… it’s all been ported as well.
The turbo was 100% rebuilt and balanced last fall, both the compressor and turbine shaft and wheel are brand new.
Good stuff! I thought this was going to be a BS “look at my cavi intake” thread. Keep us posted on what kind of #'s this makes.
Just trying to help… I can see at least to bent fins. Easily done by removing the compressor cover, so it was probably done during assembly when rebuilt unless you had the cover off. Who rebuilt it? PTE/Precision?
It’s no problem man I appreciate the FYI, I’m going to be taking off the compressor housing for porting anyways so i’ll look the wheel over closely when I do so. As far as the rebuild goes I did it myself and then had the shaft and wheels sent out for balancing. I’ve rebuilt many turbos over the years, it’s a pretty simple process as long as you take your time and know what you’re getting into.
Is there a brace anywhere on the manifold to help support the chargers weight?
I would not mind building a manifold like that for my car. More pics?
(I do have to learn to weld 1st though :()
I didn’t build the manifold myself I had it designed and made for me. I also can’t weld anywhere near that well and don’t have a TIG.
There are 2 braces on the manifold now to support the turbo but those pics were when the manifold was being finished up. I will grab some new pics of it for ya once it gets here Thursday 
Then the installation and fabrication fun begins…
I really want to build my own header… Something like this one as I
don’t have a turbo for my car
Ohhh the good ol’ RKSport 4-2-1 header. I had one of those on my Cavy when it was NA and really liked it. I went from a pacesetter to the RK and noticed a pretty fair increase in mid range. I managed to score it used off a buddy though… if I remember correctly new they were pretty damn pricey.